94 v10 cuts out and dies in drine or reverse

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Ffmdc

Junior Member
Joined
Jul 9, 2016
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Ram Year
1994
Engine
8.0
Hello new to forum so this may be a repeat question or I may be in wrong place to ask. If so please accept my apology and direct me to correct spot. I have a problem with my 94 2500 v 10 automatic 4x4. Recently lut a rebuilt tranny in, the transmision guy that did the rebuild has done many of the 47re and came highy reccomended. The truck ran great for about 2 weeks after i installed tranny and torque converter. All of a sudden the engine began cutting out and dies in drive or reverse Back fires and sounds like running out of fuel. Idles and revs perfect in park and neutral, or if i hold brake in drive or reverse up to about 2000 rpm before engine overpowers brakes. This truck is an obd 1 systems so codes are very vague. "43" . I have check groung wires at battery and positive, I see no fluctuations of volt gage when cutting out and dying. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
 
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dudeman2009

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Feb 9, 2016
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Location
Arizona
Ram Year
2001 1500 Sport with enough electrical modifications to make my brain hurt
Engine
Magnum 360
Hello new to forum so this may be a repeat question or I may be in wrong place to ask. If so please accept my apology and direct me to correct spot. I have a problem with my 94 2500 v 10 automatic 4x4. Recently lut a rebuilt tranny in, the transmision guy that did the rebuild has done many of the 47re and came highy reccomended. The truck ran great for about 2 weeks after i installed tranny and torque converter. All of a sudden the engine began cutting out and dies in drive or reverse Back fires and sounds like running out of fuel. Idles and revs perfect in park and neutral, or if i hold brake in drive or reverse up to about 2000 rpm before engine overpowers brakes. This truck is an obd 1 systems so codes are very vague. "43" . I have check groung wires at battery and positive, I see no fluctuations of volt gage when cutting out and dying. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

That code is for the ignition control. I'd check the wiring and connectors starting at your ignition coils and following them back to the engine harness. If that all looks good you are going to have to check your ignition coil with an ohmmeter to see if its bad.

Primary Resistance: 0.53-0.65 Ohms. Test across the primary connector.

Secondary Resistance: 10.9-14.7K Ohms. Test across the individual coil towers

Basically, take your ohm meter and probe the pins on the connectors on the side of the coil packs (I don't know exactly which pins are to which winding as i've only got the 5.2L but i'll check the wiring diagram) It looks to be 3 pins for the 4 coil pack, and 4 pins for the 6 coil pack.

For the 4 coil pack it seems that the center pin is the common positive. Test from each outer pin to the center pin and look for about half an ohm. From each tower test to the center pin for about 10-15Kohm.

The six coil pack is tricky as it has 4 pins and only pin 2 is the common positive pin you are looking for. You are going to want to test from each of the three pins to the common pin. The pins may be labeled, if not probe from the outermost pin to the outermost pin and you should see either OL or a really high number. Then from one of the outermost pins try each of the inner pins and look for something close to half an ohm. One of the inner pins probed to an outer pin should match the test between the outmost pins, and the other should be the common.

After testing each of the pins to the common pin, test each tower to the common pin and you should see 10-15Kohm.

That will tell you if your coil packs are good. One of the V-10 guys might know an easier way of testing them, but this is how I would go about testing it with no prior knowledge.

Good Luck :)
 
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