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pitman arm replacment.


This is a discussion on pitman arm replacment. within the Tech Info forums, part of the 2nd Gen : 1994 - 2002 category!
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Old 01-19-2012, 02:26 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default pitman arm replacment.


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So I am buying my buddies 97 ram 2wd . He let me check everything on it and the only thing it needs is a pitman arm and the tensioner makes a clicking noise. Its been making that noise for almost a year. The pitman arm has a little side to side play. Honestly if it didnt have to be inspected I wouldnt worry about it. So tell me is it as easy as it looks? Bolt out of drag link, bolt off pitman arm and use the little puller to pop it off. The use a hammer to tap the pitman arm back on then bolt it up and your done? Is that right? Ive never done one on any truck but i believe that's right. Tips and tricks are welcomed. My buddy said he would do it if I bought the part but im going to tune it up and oil change and just do it myself so I can bond with my new truck. Thanks guys :-)
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Old 01-19-2012, 03:04 PM   #2 (permalink)
 
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I honestly think its the steering gear box.


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Old 01-19-2012, 03:07 PM   #3 (permalink)
 
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here is a write up (NOT MINE)


Pitman arm removal and replacement

For those of us who suffer with sloppy steering with our Dodge trucks, there can be many causes. One of the most common cause of the sloppy steering anomaly, is a worn pitman arm. I get the sense from talking with other Dodge owners, that pitman arm wear is not really consistent. Some wear out quickly, while others get huge miles out of theirs. As with any moving part, those that maintain repair less. Keeping the entire steering linkage well greased is the main key. Every 5k miles is the maximum I would go between greasing. Grease is easy and cheap, don't be penny wise and pound foolish. The following pictorial was done on a 1999 Ram that was in the shop for a pitman arm replacement. So follow along as we tackle this relatively simple job.........



These are the tools you will need for this job. I rate this job a 3 on a 1-10 scale. You may need some tools you don't have like a pickle fork, pitman arm puller, and a 1-5/16 socket.





Here is a shot of the worn out pitman arm. The symptom was too much play in the steering wheel. An easy test is to have someone very slowly turn the steering wheel back and forth just a little, while you watch the steering box and pitman arm. A bad pitman arm will move with the steering box, but wont move the center link. Just a few degrees of rotation on the steering wheel is all that is needed. The pitman arm is what wears NOT the center link.





We start by removing the cotter pin and securing bolt on the junction of the pitman arm and center link.





Next we remove the bolt on the steering gear box that is below the pitman arm.





Now we take our pickle fork and 3 pound hammer and insert is between the pitman arm and center link.





After a few well placed and motivating whacks with the hammer, the joint will pop free.





Next we will set our pitman arm puller on the arm and steering box shaft. I tightened up the puller very tight and gave some very firm but NOT hard blows to the end of the pitman arm. ** You must be very careful hitting against the gear box so as not to damage the shaft seal or worse, bend the output shaft. Just taping on the pitman arm does 2 things. It help to break the rust bond that has formed and relives the stress on the pitman arm. You will have to do this several times. Tighten further a little bit, then tap with hammer. This one took 4 cycles before it came off. If you try to hammer on it with an air impact gun, you may end up breaking the puller. Be patient it will come off.





The pitman arm is now starting to come off the output shaft.





Pitman arm removed and compared to the new one. Looks just the same as the new one except dirty but........





A close-up of the old shaft reveals the cause of the wear. See below the threaded portion of the joint. There is some circular wear marks there. Cause of this.......improper lubrication!

Now just transfer the old zerk fitting to the new shaft if it does not come with one. Assembly is the reverse of what we just did. Just remember the center link will have to be pulled toward the pitman arm with your hand, when you install the new one. They have a tendency to flop around after the arm is removed.



A new arm and no more steering slop. Remember to tighten everything well and install the cotter pin back.


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Old 01-19-2012, 05:36 PM   #4 (permalink)
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does the arm only go on one way to the steering box or can you get a couple teeth off in either direction on steering box?
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Old 01-19-2012, 05:42 PM   #5 (permalink)
 
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I have not done a ram, but I believe yes. it could be installed and not be centered.


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Old 01-19-2012, 07:23 PM   #6 (permalink)
 
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No you can't put it on wrong it is murphy proofed the splines have a wide groove [index] in one spot so it only goes on one way.


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Old 01-19-2012, 07:59 PM   #7 (permalink)
 
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Originally Posted by fla crkr 1 ton View Post
No you can't put it on wrong it is murphy proofed the splines have a wide groove [index] in one spot so it only goes on one way.
Good. Thanks for the post


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Old 01-19-2012, 09:46 PM   #8 (permalink)
 
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Yup , only one way


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