Transmission mating surface damage, help

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schmen

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Hey guys,

Picked up a 02 Ram 1500 4.7 yesterday. Got a deal because it was leaking ATF. Cleaned it all up today and found the culprit, which is a gouge in the pan/gasket mating surface on the transmission itself. Looks like a previous owner was trying to clean off the old gasket with something a little too rough, or it was dropped with the pan off etc.

I'm trying to determine if I can get this thing to seal properly as is, with a new gasket? Perhaps a thicker gasket can be used, or maybe a dap of RTV right there between the surface and the gasket? Id hate to have to remove the entire transmission to bring it is and have the mating surface welded up/ machined.

Any tips are appreciated!

-Kenny
 

GoldDot

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Just silicone the whole thing without the gasket.
 
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schmen

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Yeah that might be the best option, if required. I've read that RTV is better than the rubber gasket that's currently on there. I actually just went out and tightened up the pan bolts, and the leak has apparently stopped, or at least slowed. Ill keep an eye on it the next few days to see if that was all required.

One other thing, my Chilton manual calls for silicone gasket maker (RTV) and 105 inch lbs of torque. Can someone tell me the torque value if using a rubber gasket? While out there tightening things up, I didn't even get to 105 # because it started to feel like it might begin to strip, so I stopped there.
 

dexter

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As a temporary fix - use some brake cleaner OUTSIDE (brake cleaner is dangerous stuff if inhaled). Then apply liberal amounts of RTV.

As a permeate fix, you need to see what the problem is with the pan off. When you change the ATF you can look into JB Weld or a thick pan gasket. Maybe the gasket on now is ripped.
 

crash68

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torque spec is so you don't over-tighten and crush the gasket. 109 in/lbs is not much (about 9 ft/lbs), easily over-torqued by hand. It shouldn't have felt like you were going strip out anything.
 

dapepper9

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Rtv is not good on transmission pans because it squeezes into the pan and gets chunks in the fluid that clog **** up. Yes there's a filter but it cam punch through and keep going
 

Tryin

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I would say if you want to use sealant, use a gasket and a non-hardening sealant such as Yamabond-4 or Hylomar. I don't think RTV or similar silicone sealants are a good option unless it is speced by the manufacture.


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dudeman2009

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I saw a lot of things like this on semi's. The best thing i've found is to wet sand the area smooth with a high grit paper. Then in the summer months we'd leave the rubber or silicon gasket out in the sun for 20-30 minutes with the pan until it was hot, or in the winter put them by a radiant floor heater that we used to melt snow off the underside of trucks and trailers.

Then put that bad boy on and tighten the problem area first.

Do not use any flame or high intensity heat source to heat the gasket or you could damage it. I guess you could put the pan and gasket in the engine bay of another vehicle until it got hot.
 

GoldDot

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RTV silicone is what the factory uses in the 65rfe. If you only use 1 tube or less you will have no issues. Just follow the manufacturers instructions for application. The only drawback is having to get the silicone off the next time.
 
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schmen

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Thanks for the help guys. just tightening up the bolts stopped the leak. Maybe next time I do a filter/fluid ill address the surface area.
 

Rustycowl69

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One other thing, my Chilton manual calls for silicone gasket maker (RTV) and 105 inch lbs of torque. Can someone tell me the torque value if using a rubber gasket? While out there tightening things up, I didn't even get to 105 # because it started to feel like it might begin to strip, so I stopped there.

Trust your instincts. The case is aluminim, if you felt like it might strip, you probably were right. I don't usually tighten trans pans and oil pans and valve covers to service manual specs. I think they are usually excessive. I think their numbers come from dry threads, oem gaskets and new , perfectly flat gasket surfaces. All of which, we don't have, anymore. I often use a 1/4:" drive to make sure I don't over tighten.
 
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