Anyone have S&B CAI with ram scoop on 6.7 ctd ?

As the title states any one with a S&B CAI with ram scoop?

Does the filter stay dry in a pouring rain at interstate speeds ?

How easy is it to service the filter?.

They claim 47 % better air flow does it help with performance or mpg?

How long have you had it,would you recommend it?

Thanks
Don

I am running their intake on my 2010 Cummins but without the scoop. Mileage is up about 1mpg so far, and the butt dyno feels good as well. I would like to get it back on the track to see if it drops any time off my 1/4 mile, but it was well worth the $300 for me.

I dont see the scoop being an issue unless you run through water that is deeper than the scoop itself. The water would have to be pulled up about 3-4' to get to the filter, so you have gravity working your favor there.

Thanks for the quick reply much appreciated.

I visited your web site today some interesting products.

Thanks so much.

Regards
Don

No problem. We are still working on the diesel sections, so feel free to shoot me a PM here if you dont see the part you are looking for.

There has been extensive testing done on the cummins-specific forums, and the verdict is that the factory intake flows very well up to around 500hp. If you're making less than that an intake will provide nothing more than added sound. Use a quality drop-in filter and run the factory setup and save your money!

^^This same thing has been said about the hemi trucks for years, but the guys that are actually taking the trucks to the dragstrip see gains all day, even on stock trucks. I just installed my S&B 2 weeks ago, an I did feel a gain, and the mileage has gone up as well. I always have been and always will be a believer in a quality cold air intake.

This article applies to 3rd gen trucks (2003-2009 Cummins), but if you do some research you will find that the 2010-2012 configuration is identical.

http://www.genosgarage.com/GenosGarageTechArticles/TDR56_AirCleaners.pdf

Explains quite a bit.

For what it's worth, I use a fleetguard filter in the factory airbox, with the intake vanes/silencer removed. With the silencer removed, there is a slight increase in turbo whistle, which I like. Performance and mileage did not change noticeably.

That was alot to read, but it basically says the same thing that I have always preached about cold air intakes. While a modded truck will benefit more from a quality cold air intake, a stock truck will still see some gains as well. The more supporting mods you throw at it, the better the intake will perform. I am running a 170hp tune on my 2010 right now, and the intake did make a noticable difference for me.

Something else to think about is that the tests they did were with a smooth intake tube that was the same size from the turbo to the airbox. Replacing that tube with one that is 5" at the airbox and 4" at the turbo wil increase airspeed and make more power. S&B uses a tapered intake tube like this, and I feel that is a part of why it works so well. The same principles apply to the hemi engines, and I have tested this theory a hundred times at the dragsrtip where the real results are.

Dyno's are nice for fine tuning, but they are far from an accurate test of performance, especially on a part like a cold air intake that is always going to perform best at speed where it is getting more cold air.

On my 07 cummins, I consistantly dropped .1 off my 1/4 mile ET just by removing the filter all together and running an open intake tube. This was even with just an intake tube that had no heat hied, so I'm sure that setup was sucking up some engine heat as well. The truck made over 600hp, so I wasnt too worried about the few HP I was losing by bringing in some of that engine heat, but the principle still applies that the increased air flow from running without a filter did show noticable power gains.

Sounds like sound advice then. I don't do any drag racing in my truck, but perhaps dsent does.

spankis said:

There has been extensive testing done on the cummins-specific forums, and the verdict is that the factory intake flows very well up to around 500hp. If you're making less than that an intake will provide nothing more than added sound. Use a quality drop-in filter and run the factory setup and save your money!

Click to expand...

If you are refering to the same specific site that I am thinking of, then what you say has been proven on the dyno and the strip ...as long as it's not a K&N drop-in (oiled)..Stock intake flows plenty of air. As much as I love the sound of a turbo, i'll heed the advice of the many people before me that tested it.

Hemi450hp said:

That was alot to read, but it basically says the same thing that I have always preached about cold air intakes. While a modded truck will benefit more from a quality cold air intake, a stock truck will still see some gains as well. The more supporting mods you throw at it, the better the intake will perform. I am running a 170hp tune on my 2010 right now, and the intake did make a noticable difference for me.

Something else to think about is that the tests they did were with a smooth intake tube that was the same size from the turbo to the airbox. Replacing that tube with one that is 5" at the airbox and 4" at the turbo wil increase airspeed and make more power. S&B uses a tapered intake tube like this, and I feel that is a part of why it works so well. The same principles apply to the hemi engines, and I have tested this theory a hundred times at the dragsrtip where the real results are.

Dyno's are nice for fine tuning, but they are far from an accurate test of performance, especially on a part like a cold air intake that is always going to perform best at speed where it is getting more cold air.

On my 07 cummins, I consistantly dropped .1 off my 1/4 mile ET just by removing the filter all together and running an open intake tube. This was even with just an intake tube that had no heat hied, so I'm sure that setup was sucking up some engine heat as well. The truck made over 600hp, so I wasnt too worried about the few HP I was losing by bringing in some of that engine heat, but the principle still applies that the increased air flow from running without a filter did show noticable power gains.

Click to expand...

In Red.
Removing the main restriction will make a difference regardless if you have a stock air intake or an aftermarket one. I am not sure what you are trying to say?

Also comparing a diesel to a gasser is like comparing an apple to an orange... they may look similar on the outside, but bite into it and you will find something completely different.

I am not new to diesels...My last truck was an 07 with a 5.9 that made 606hp/1190tq at the wheels, and my current truck is a 2010 with a 6.7 that is deleted with an intake and a hot tune, so I have been playing around with these for a while now as well.

If I am reading the results correctly from the link posted above, the modified airbox, better filter, and new intake tube showed a 10hp/13tq gain on the 80hp tune. The stock airbox, even with the PSM kit they added in the test is not bringing in as much air as the S&B kit will with the added scoop, then the intake hose they used in this test was a straight 4" from the turbo to the airbox. The new intake tube that comes with the S&B is 5" at the airbox and 4" at the turbo. This tapered design increases airspeed as it enters the turbo and will make more power over the straight 4" tube that was used in the test above.

And to add even more fuel to the fire, the test above only went up to an 80hp tune. The more aggressive the tune is, the more you will benefit from the better flowing intake. According to the test above, stock fueling showed a 10hp/5tq gain, 80hp tune showed a 10hp/13tq gain, so what do you think my current 170hp tune would gain from there? Then you add the better design of the S&B airbox and intake tube to the mix, and that is a very substantial gain for a part that costs less than $300. I think those numbers are pretty clear.

Thanks for the reply's guys interesting view points.

I have no intention of racing my truck.

My need for speed days are behind me,been there done that and still alive to talk about it.

Although with the modern technology it is much easier now a days with bolt on power accessories!!

Drag racers love cool moist night air, because it is less dense and can be compressed more = HP

This is my thought for getting cool air to my 6.7,since they have a turbo with a ram air scoop.

It is also much harder to make sure what you buy is actually worth buying vs a scam product.

I have never installed a CAI on any vehicle I have owned.

I have used K&N drop in filter on the last 8 gas cars, trucks , this combined with mobil 1 synthetic oil has always got me 1 - 4 mpg.

If I was rich and had endless cash supply I could buy all the products on the planet and experiment to find which ones work the best and which combinations.

There are a lot of people who buy,cai,exhaust,tuners for HP but for the money spent, there are other ways to add the same amount of power or more for less money and have a better motor.

Air intake and exhaust flow are most necessary for a healthy motor but really offer no big HP gains, but do offer performance,longevity and MPG's for your motor.

I have made the switch from gas powered vehicles to get away from government imposed ethanol ruining my motors!!!!!!

All my vehicles I own are now Diesel,12 ram,12 Jetta,84 Mercedes 190D 155k,2004 Hustler 72" zero turn mower,and 84 IH 4x4 254 tractor. My exceptions are 2 atv's,2 motorcycles,and my boat.

If our government would join Europe to promote Diesel,stop subsidising farmers to grow corn, and get rid of all the gasoline blends except 1 say 97 octane NO ETHANOL the price of gas and Diesel would drop overnight by $2.00 per gallon.

After all Diesel fuel does not have to be as refined from oil as gas to make it and should be cheaper to make, Diesel is less explosive than gas and safer to transport.

I am hoping this truck will get me 500k miles will be my last truck purchase before retiring. And when I do retire I hope there will be more Diesel options!!

Thanks guys!

Just my 2 Cents!!

Regards
Don

Your paying for the energy content of the fuels which is why diesel is higher.

I think that you misunderstood my statement, or read further into than it was intended.
I was not challenging your past experience or knowledge at all.

Stangshcky12

There is not much difference in energy between gas 115,000 btu vs Diesel 130,500 btu per gallon of each.

Diesel was cheaper years ago before the Big Truckers Strike
but even that is not the reason for higher Diesel Price.

For some strange reason Diesel is taxed higher than gas by at least .10 -.15 per gallon or more depending on which state you live in.

It also has to do with demand for Diesel which is high and competes with fuel oil,kerosene for production at the same refinery and the small amount of factories that are around the USA to make these products compared to the number that make gas.

It also has to do to the fact Diesel is not our main transportation fuel and we are spending to much time making GAS!!!

In the US because the government/EPA insist on the special "California" winter and summer blend, and fact they make 87,93,97,racing fuel for California.

The rest of the country has winter/summer blend the fact they make 87,93,97,racing fuel and is to busy shoving ETHANOL down our throats which actually cost MPGS in every vehicle running Ethanol!!

You do not get the same MPG from a gal of ethanol gas as you do from pure gas.

Alcohol made from sugar cane added to gas is much better than ethanol gas



Approximate conversion values between some fossil fuels units are indicated below:

1 US gallon gasoline = 115000 Btu (low heating value) = 121 MJ = 32 MJ/liter
1 boe (barell of oil equivalent) = 42 US gallons = 35 Imperial Gallons = 159 liter = 6.1 GJ = 5.8 million Btu = 1700 kWh
1 metric tonne gasoline = 8.53 barrels = 1356 liter = 43.5 GJ (low heating value)
1 US gallon diesel = 130500 Btu
1 liter diesel = 36.4 MJ (low heating value)
1 metric tonne coal = 27-30 GJ (bituminous/anthracite) = 15-19 GJ (lignite/sub-bituminous)
1 cubic feet natural gas = 930 Btu (low heating value)
1 cubic meter natural gas = 35 MJ (low heating value)

Regards
Don

I didnt mean for my post to come across as offensive either. I just get a little jumpy in the intake threads because there are always guys that try to say the factory airbox is fine, but every vehicle I have owned has shown gains with an aftermarket intake. Everything from gas to diesel, they all have shown noticable gains with an intake. And I know most guys dont race their trucks, but the gains shown at the dragsrtip will carry over to how the trucks respond to the mods on the street as well.

NWRQC

What do you have against K&N drop in?

Do you know the purpose of the oil on the filter?

Have you ever heard of an oil bathed air filter ??

They were widely used in the early days of car history?

Oil bathed filters are still used on heavy equipment because they trap more dirt than a dry paper filter.

An oil bathed air filter traps more dirt because it pulls the air across the oil then and has a labryrinth of passages and sharp turns the bigger particles cannot make these sharp turns because of their velocity and fall into the oil the the smaller particles are trapped in the inner filter.

Regards
Don

a lot of discussion has happened already that would cover what I would say so ill just say this. I had the S&B scoop on my truck (06 cummins 5.9) before I got my off road bumpers. When looking into the S&B intake and scoop I read a couple reports that said. With the addition of the scoop alone to the intake they did not notice any increases(no dyno run made) BUT they notice with JUST the addition of the scoop to the already installed S&B intake that EGTs unloaded went down 50* and when towing they went down 75* to 100*. So if not for my bumper I would still have mine installed.

The NIST lower heating values, which are a little more accurate the engineers toolbox are 116,090 btu(higher 124,340 btu) for gasoline and diesel is 128,450 btu(higher 137,380 btu), per gallon
At 9.62% (9.49%) difference I would say that is ALOT.
It must be a coincidence then that the difference between the national fuel price average is 9.24% ($3.710 for reg and $4.088)
Comparing numbers more your buying 31,291 btu/dollar with gasoline and 31,421 btu/dollar diesel
I have a post from 2/9/12 with similar values, on that day the average fuel price was $3.483 (33,330 btu/dollar) for gasoline and $3.888(33,037 btu/dollar) for diesel, a 10.41% difference in price

To stay on topic I have only heard only good things about the S&B intakes

I have gotten an avg. 0.5 mpg increase with an airraid quickfilter which is just a heat shield that goes ontop of the stock air box replacing the lid and an oiled filter as well as a torque tube I made myself. Can't really feel any difference in power.

A lot of cummins guys shy away from oiled filters and stick with aftermarket highflow dry filters (S&B probably being the most popular I think) because of the problems that can be caused by over-oiling