Help point me in the right direction?

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FancyStancy

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I have recently gained access to a Porter Cable Dual Action polisher. I have always wanted to really level out my clearcoat and have paint like glass. I am almost there with the OTS products I have been using by hand, but I can tell I need that one extra step to help get any lights swirls and small scratches out you can see in direct sunlight. If you guys could tell me what you would recommend for your different products to use for this process.. both waxes and pads? I really don't think I need anything abrasive at all, my paints in great shape, Just something to help polish it all off. My truck is a 2004 with 70k on it an has had a few previous owners so I don't know how much clear coat I currently have. I know that sounds dumb, but I couldn't afford a re-paint on my budget lol. I know this information is somewhere out there, but you guys always point me in the right direction.

Also, any tips or tricks would be much appreciated about using the DA
 

mjd91

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Check out Autogeek.
Something good and easy to work with that you can pick up at the store is Meguiar's Ultimate Polish.
It's a good finishing polish that will take out the swirls and scratches you have.

Did the PC come with any pads?
 

kkreit01

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^ What he said. Check autogeek. They have many how-tos. I'd trust them before some joe schmoe on youtube. It's somewhat of a science, and it will get spendy quick. The pads, backing plate, pad cleaners, etc. all add up quickly. You could practice on an older vehicle, or buy a junk panel from your local yard to practice on.
 
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FancyStancy

FancyStancy

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Thanks for the info guys. I didn't think I would use a product as simple as Urinate polish.. I thought I would need to order the polishes that are like tan colored that you need to order offline with the long names, the stuff the pros use lol.

So if I use ultimate polish don't I need to follow that up with a sealant wax?
 

mjd91

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Yes you will. Wipe the paint with a diluted mix of isopropyl alcohol to remove any polishing oils left behind by the polish.
That way you'll have a clean surface left for the wax or sealant to bond to.

There are better compounds and polishes out there (most for more money) but UP is a very good one that is similar to their professional line m205 polish but it has more oils in it so it is easier for a beginner to work with (doesn't dry fast, longer working times, etc).

Anything you do that removed your paint protection (including clay bar) needs to be followed by a wax or sealant.
 
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FancyStancy

FancyStancy

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Good to know about the alcohol. I have not heard of the UP product.. could you put up a link? Sorry for the inconvenience
 

mjd91

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No inconvenience at all.
UP = Ultimate Polish

If that doesn't remove all of your defects you can step up to Ultimate Compound.
But if you just have some light swirls and scratches the UP should take care of them.
 

mjd91

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When you get on Autogeek you will feel overwhelmed.
Just keep reading, read the abbreviation thread (they like to abbreviate almost everything!), and look at the how-to's.
It will become clearer and clearer.
 
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FancyStancy

FancyStancy

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Wow, I feel stupid. I figured UP was some high end polish lol! I have used ultimate compound in the past by hand followed by ultimate compound and then a sealant. And got pretty good results, but I still have swirls. But my swirls are not large at all. They only are about an inch in diameter if that makes sense. Will I get better results doing the same process with the Porter Cable?
 
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FancyStancy

FancyStancy

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*I meant to say followed by ultimate polish


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 

mjd91

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Yes.
I'd say it's pretty much impossible to get the same results polishing by hand than machine.
 
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FancyStancy

FancyStancy

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That's what I figured. Do you have any recommendations for pads for the PC?
 

Lobster Poutine

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check this out...
Olde Town Auto Spa Guide to Machine Polishing

Set your mind at ease! There are no worries when it comes to using a Random Orbital Polisher like the G110V2 Dual-Action Car Polisher by Meguiar’s, of damaging your paint, even if you have never used a car polisher before! This machine offers variable speeds and a random orbit dual action for safe, swirl free polishing.

This polisher with the correct pad and polish, is capable of removing random isolated scratches, swirl, oxidation, water spots, acid rain etching and bird dropping damage as well as other unfortunate paint defects that stand in the way of that brilliant shine.
The polisher is also a great maintenance tool for your gloss enhancement polishing, pre-wax cleaning and applying thin, even coats of your favorite car wax, paint sealant or protectant. Even if you have never used any type of car polisher you can still achieve an amazing, swirl free shine.

This article will take you through the process step-by-step.

GETTING STARTED - Dual Action Car Polisher
It's easy to give out advice on what steps to take to make your car look good, but there are many variables that come into play that we need to consider. This guide will lead you through the necessary steps to achieve that sought after, deep, wet looking shine. Now let’s get started!

STEP ONE - SURFACE EVALUATION
You know how you want it to look but you must also take in to consideration the time involved, tools needed and if the damage is severe, your own skill level. Here are a few things you need to think about before you start your surface evaluation process.
• Products and Tools Available
• Time Available
• Work Space Including Lighting Weather Conditions
• Skill Level
• Your Expectations
Now that we know what we have to work with, let’s evaluate the surface of your paint to determine our plan of attack.

Overall Paint Condition- Is your paint new or like new, in need of light polishing for gloss enhancement, requiring minor defect removal or is your paint neglected and needing heavy defect removal?

Paint Hardness -This is difficult to tell until you start polishing your car. Some paints are harder than others making defect removal more difficult so more aggressive products would be needed.

Paint Thickness - This is difficult to tell unless you have a paint thickness gage. Without a gage, what you need to look for is thin spots or any areas that may have been burnt through in the past by inexperienced detailers with the wrong type of buffer. If you find a thin area, stay away from that area with your polisher. You can't polish out thin paint, it just wears it away.

Individual Paint Defect -
• Isolated Scratches
• Swirl
• Oxidation
• Paint Etching
• Water Spots
• Paint Staining
• Clarity of overall surface

Now that we know what needs to be corrected we need to choose the proper polish and polishing pad to correct the defects in your paint’s surface and achieve desired results.

STEP TWO - POLISH AND POLISHING PAD SELECTION
Now that you have evaluated the surface and know what needs to be done it’s time to figure out what products you will need to get the job done. Keep in mind you always start with your least aggressive product for the job and step up in aggressiveness only if needed.

Major Defect Removal – Remove Scratches, Oxidation and Other Serious Defects

The yellow Buff and Shine Euro Foam Grip Pad is the first step in serious defect removal such as random isolated scratches, heavy swirl, severe oxidation, stubborn water etching and other difficult to remove paint defects. Use the Buff and Shine Euro Foam Grip Pad for safe and efficient removal of more serious defects with a compound such as the Meguiar’s M105 Ultra Cut Compound.

Minor Defect Removal – Remove Swirls, Light Scratches, Oxidation and Minor Defects

The Orange Buff and Shine Euro Foam Grip Pad is the second step for minor defect removal of swirls, fine isolated scratches, water spots, mild water etching, light oxidation and other less severe paint finish defects. Use the Buff and Shine Euro Foam Grip Pad for safe and competent removal of medium to light common defects with a swirl remover polish such as Menzerna PF2500 Power Finish Polish or Sonax Profiline Fine Abrasive Paste.

Gloss Enhancement and Paint Cleaning – Pre Wax Cleaning and Gloss Enhancement
The green Buff and Shine Foam Grip Pad is your third step in paint perfection and is used to clean your paint and enhance gloss so you can achieve that desired deep, wet looking shine. Use the green Buff and Shine Foam Grip Pad for your pre-wax cleaning and final gloss enhancement as well as to prep your surface for proper bonding of car wax, paint sealant or protectant with a finish polish such as Duragloss 105 Total Performance Polish or Optimum Finish Polish.

Protection Application – Protect your Paint Finish from Harsh Environmental Elements

The red Buff and Shine Foam Grip Pad is the final step to a flawless finish and is used to safely apply your car wax, paint sealant or protectant. Use Sonus SFX-4 Final Gloss Seal and Protect Pad for thin, even application of the Sonus SFX-4 Paint Sealant.

STEP THREE - PAINT POLISHING PROCESS
Now let's start polishing! Remember to never work in direct sunlight or on a hot surface.
Good lighting is also very important so you are able to evaluate your work during the polishing process. Thoroughly wash and dry your car.
o Use a detailing clay to remove bonded surface contamination that is in the way of polishing your paint.
o Choose an area approximately 2' by 2' area on the surface to begin your process. Usually the worst area is your best choice.
o With painter’s tape, tape off any sharp edges and trim to avoid staining trim, build up in cracks and crevices and pad damage.
o Select the proper polish and polishing pad based on your surface evaluation to start your process.
o Adjust your speed setting according to the “Recommended Speed Setting Guide” below.
o Place the pad on the surface of the paint.
o Turn on the power switch. WARNING! Never lift the polisher off the surface of your paint while it is turned on!
o When removing any type of defects apply medium pressure while polishing and move in SLOW overlapping motions according to the “Recommended Paint Polishing Pattern Guide” below.
o When the polish is worked in well it will start to turn clear.
o At this point turn off the machine and lift it off the surface of the paint.
o With a clean, quality microfiber towel, buff the remaining product residue off the surface of your paint.
o In good lighting, evaluate your work.
o If it looks like you need to work on the defects a little more, add a few more pea size dabs of polish and repeat your process until your evaluation revels success. (Keep in mind when using more aggressive products you need to work your way down in aggressiveness to achieve your best shine.)
o Don’t forget, this is a four-step process but you may not need all for steps.
o Working in sections that are no larger than 2’ by 2’ to concentrate your work repeat the necessary polishing processes over the entire surface of your car until desired results are achieved.
o Remember areas with more serious defects will require more polishing time so be patient and allow the polisher to do its job.
Using your final wax pad, apply your favorite car wax, paint sealant or paint protectant and allow to cure. Remove remaining residue with a clean, quality microfiber towel or buff off using your microfiber bonnets to reveal a brilliant shine!
Maintain your shine by quick detailing when lightly dusty and regular washing as needed with a quality car wash shampoo, wash mitt and microfiber drying towel.
Proper machine polishing is as easy as following this simple pattern and concentrating your work in a 2' by 2' section at a time. Master this and you are on your way to a brilliant shine!

RECOMMENDED PAINT POLISHING PATTERN
http://s1158.photobucket.com/user/primo_spaghetti/media/paintpolishingpattern_zps96126eb3.jpg.html
RECOMMENDED SPEED SETTING GUIDE
Remove Serious Defects – 5 to 5.5
Remove Swirl and Minor Defects – 4.5 to 5
Pre Wax Cleaning and Gloss Enhancement – 4.5
Protect your paint finish from harsh environmental elements – 2.5 Last Step Product Application - 2.5 to 3
Note: Not all paint finishes require the entire four-step process. Complete only the steps necessary for the condition or your paint finish.

CAR POLISHER TIPS AND TECHNIQUES
o Do a test spot! Make sure your technique and process is offering desired results before proceeding to polish the entire car
o Use the proper pad, polish and speed combination for your paint’s condition
o Keep the pad level on your paint surface at all times
o Always start with your least aggressive polish, then step up only if needed
o Use overlapping motions
o SLOW Down! Don’t run the machine over the paint too fast or it won’t get the job done
o Work a small (2’ by 2’) area at a time so you can concentrate on your work More polish is not better! Use only about 3 to 4 pea size dabs and add more as necessary
o Never dry buff! Add polish when you see your polish is thin and starts to go clear
o Never buff in direct sun or on a warm or hot surface Never use more than one type of polish on your polishing or buffing pad
o Keep your pads away from trim and sharp edges
o Tape off trim with painter's tape to avoid staining trim and polish build up in cracks and crevices
o Never lift your pad off the paint when the machine is turned on
o Keep the cord over your shoulder and away from your paint Tie a loose knot around where the extension cord meets the polisher cord so it stays plugged in
o Make sure your lighting is good so you can see your progress
o Apply medium pressure only when removing defects
o Check your work often to make sure your process is working
 

Tjbradney

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a tip is to not so a circle motion when it comes to hand wax and removing , really anything that deals with paint either go up and down or left to right. In term makes the scratches if any only visible from some angles and not all.
 

RAtmosphere

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With my PC, I use the Lake Country CSS 4" pads and heres why....theres some spots on my dually where a 5.5" or larger pad wont go (A pillars, between door handle and window, and many others). And to be honest, I'd rather not have to change from a small pad to a larger pad either for a large area or tight area, so I solve it with using the 4" all around....and I did get my pads from Autogeek, but my polishes comes from a place called Shine Supply....
 

AdamsPolishes

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