Oh you 48re...

Give it a shot...Got with the upgraded solenoied and a fatory transducer from Mopar

Here is a video I made of mine shifting...doesn't hang anything like yours.

(this is just to help ya compare)

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your guys trucks shift wayyy to nice, my C10 chirps the tires under anything over 1/4 throttle

2 different animals

My CTD threw ya in the seat on every shift ... but that was a way different animal

Mine shifts like that only into 3rd gear.

Now that I've been driving the truck for a while I'm figuring it out. The truck shifts at 2000-2200 EVERYTIME under normal/light throttle, like if that's its programmed shift point. Even if I let off the throttle it still won't shift unless I keep getting on it. Could a bad solenoid and sensor do that?? Has anyone ever heard of that happening?

From what I read about the shift hanging up, it'll shift when they let off the throttle when it's caused by a bad solenoid and sensor. I really wanna figure it out before I drop that money into those two parts..

I really miss driving my truck and loving every second of it..

I dont know , I had a very big shift kit in mine along with allot of other stuff .

Okay, well today I replaced the solenoid with a borg warner piece and put a brand new OEM pressure sensor... Lucky me, it didn't do a damn thing. The 2-3 shift still hangs up to around 2100 RPM under light throttle. I have no idea what to do next, other than taking out that valve body.

If you need one .. BD-Power Transmission Valve Body , thats the one !

$880 is the price .. but you get $400 back threw the core exchange .

Read ..

An economical way to improve the performance and clutch life of your stock transmission is to install a BD Performance Valve Body. Our complete upgrade of the stock valve body consists of new valve designs, increased capacity springs, revised oil circuits and optimized governor piston dimensions which the improved oil flow reduces temperatures and lowers torque converter evacuation time for quicker clutch apply.

BD’s NEW DESIGN achieves up to 80% higher clutch apply pressures over the stock unit and up to 50% over the competitors with the increase starting at much lower engine rpm’s and at lighter throttle pedal position movement. Light throttle shift firmness is also maintained at these higher apply pressures.

This new building process also eliminates the often referred to “Shuttle Shifting” or hunting-for-gears in 2-3

With the new designed valve bodies achieving the higher pressures, a BD PressureLoc is no longer needed when an exhaust brake is installed to assist in preventing convertor lock up clutch slippage – this unit does it all!

(BD still recommends the use of a PressureLoc for transmissions not equipped with one of our new designed valve bodies when an exhaust brake is installed.)

We also added second gear lock-up capability that with the addition of one of our TorqLoc or TowLoc kits can offer serious engine retarding capability on towing applications.

Each valve body is tested to ensure proper function before shipping. While you’re replacing the valve body, add one of our heavy duty aluminum oil pans for greater oil capacity, cooler oil temperature and improved case rigidity.

That's what I just got...that vb isn't the problem, or I hope not..

Plus I don't have shuttle shifting or gear hunting, it just hangs up

No idea , then .

I am interested in the price you paid for the VB ? PM me

Alrighty guys the problem has been solved!

Turns out the problem was within the smarty...
I was talking to a Cummins/Transmission expert and he told me to put the smarty back to stock and what'd ya know! The hang up was about 90% gone... So long story short it was all in the torque management. I turned the smarty back up and set the TQ M to 3 and it was back to normal... for the most part. It still hangs up VERY little up to around 16-1700 RPM, but it's because I now need to mod the TTVA motor to get it 100% back to normal.

Here's the technical explanation in case anyone is interested:
"Here is the problem, the 05+ trucks have the TTVA motor with a single non-adjustable program on them that ramp TV pressure based on a predertimed map of APPS readings. Whne oyu out a Smarty or other programmer on that changes the fueling curves you now have more fuel with less throttle position. All the preset shift points are now faulty because it takes less throttle to get to the same speed and under light\normal throttle gears seem to hang until you push it a little harder.

Under hard acceleration it is fine because hard throttle is past the presets and it just uses a default high value to determine shift and lockup.

What you need is as I suggested, a shift enhancer to ramp the TTVA program faster with less throttle to compensate. The other thing you can do is remove the TTVA motor, turn it upside down, remove the bottom cover, and advance the the gear thta drives the TV pressure 1 tooth. This gives you more initial advance TV pressure and a faster ramp to where the balance between TV and gov pressure is closer.

Works great on mine with the GM solenoid conversion. You will feel firmer and more frequent downshifts as you slow but its nice to know where the trans is actually at form my view.

BTW, the TTVA motor tweak is free where shift enhancers are $200-250. "

Glad to see you got it all figure out