Bed Lights
- Thread starter Bob0233
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GraniteCrystal
Junior Member
There is a mopar kit for adding the led bed lights. 2017 part number is 82214870AB. I believe that this kit requires a sales code to be flashed into the truck for it to work. Good luck!
Robocop_9
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My 2017 came with the light installed. It wouldn't work. When I crawled under it I found the harness and plug but no where to plug it in. SMH
Taking it in Tuesday to get it fixed
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Taking it in Tuesday to get it fixed
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R/T_Fire
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You can also use a LED rope light stuck to the underside of the bedrail and just wire it to the Cargo light switch and you will have much better lighting in the bed.
Something like this
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HYJYdOC3hQY
Personally I wouldn't recommend tying it into the trailer wiring like that but that's just me, It's more work but tapping into the cargo light power but worth it to me to tap in to a pre-existing system already designed for that type of lighting
Something like this
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HYJYdOC3hQY
Personally I wouldn't recommend tying it into the trailer wiring like that but that's just me, It's more work but tapping into the cargo light power but worth it to me to tap in to a pre-existing system already designed for that type of lighting
craigsez
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I have a cpl blue 4" strips i wanna put in my box..Like to have it live in the cab switch just to light up the box on those nice summer show off evenings..
DaKing
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I went with this...
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01JUE9OLM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_TRmWybQXHMT5K
I use a Curt harness adapter behind the bumper. Good splice point that can easily be removed. Spliced in reverse for led tailgate bar and spliced in pwr/grnd for switched bed lights.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01JUE9OLM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_TRmWybQXHMT5K
I use a Curt harness adapter behind the bumper. Good splice point that can easily be removed. Spliced in reverse for led tailgate bar and spliced in pwr/grnd for switched bed lights.
DaKing
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I went with this...
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01JUE9OLM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_TRmWybQXHMT5K
I use a Curt harness adapter behind the bumper. Good splice point that can easily be removed. Spliced in reverse for led tailgate bar and spliced in pwr/grnd for switched bed lights.
how does the tape hold up? is it stuck on plastic or did you stick it to actual metal?
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The strips are solid. They use a 3m tape similar to what youd find on the window visors.
I have mine stuck to the bed rails under a BakFlip cover.
Dirtbikekid1998
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Here's my thread on installing the factory bed lights, should be the same for 2017.
http://www.ramforum.com/f41/mopar_2016_bed_lights_your_2015_a-88164/
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
http://www.ramforum.com/f41/mopar_2016_bed_lights_your_2015_a-88164/
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
BBRAM2500
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I did exactly what da king did with Walmart led bar and I just wired it with a relay to the bed lighting on the third light
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What's the problem with using the +12V from the trailer 7 pin harness? It's just used for auxiliary lighting on trailers and to recharge the trailer brake break-away battery(if the trailer is so equiped).
I've done two such lighting projects using the trailer wiring power, cap and bedrail lighting with no issues.
Make sure you clean the surface really good with isopropyl alcohol (rubbing alcohol) before you stick the lighting strips up to the underside of the bedrail.
R/T_Fire
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Nothing, that is why i said personally i wouldnt recommend it.. you can draw power there and put a switch in but why not add it to the cargo light circuit and use what is already designed for lighting the bed and not adding another switch to do the same is all. Just personal preference
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Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk
DaKing
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I wired to the factory switch cause it was there, and make a factory look.
My original wiring plan was to tap in to the trailer connector. Run a fused power to each light. The, use a "hood pin" switch to turn on the lights, when the gate is open. So basically the lights would get 12V Positive all the time, but switched ground, by opening of the gate. The issue was finding a sopt that would work.
My original wiring plan was to tap in to the trailer connector. Run a fused power to each light. The, use a "hood pin" switch to turn on the lights, when the gate is open. So basically the lights would get 12V Positive all the time, but switched ground, by opening of the gate. The issue was finding a sopt that would work.
