AustinB
Banned
- Joined
- Sep 8, 2015
- Posts
- 3,942
- Reaction score
- 2,052
- Location
- San Diego, Left Coast
- Ram Year
- 2015
- Engine
- hemi 5.7
I originally posted this in the exterior section. But I wanted to give my thread a proper burial to the bottom, in the right section 
So I've been wanting to change the background color of my ram badge for some time now. The front badge was accomplished by disassembling it, paint, clear, reassemble with epoxy. But the rear badge is an even bigger challenge, with it being one piece.
First things first, I do not believe in using plastidip on my truck for anything, other than a temporary idea of how something would look, and then remove it asap. I have a history of body repair/auto painting, and I'm all about a permanent, professional-looking final product. With that being said, I entertained the idea of taping off the ram, properly prepping the background, paint, clear. But it would be a nightmare to do this perfectly, and not have a risk of peeling/chipping down the road.
This is where the dilemma started. About a month of researching, trying to pick the minds of manufacturers (which do not give up their techniques, because $), and looking at the confused faces of the hobby shop employees when I walk in with a Ram badge. No one had any answers. So I used my own brain and the results met my expectations.
Minimum supplies needed. (If you have tender hands, rubber gloves are recommended)
1) Pick up some pourable epoxy used for bar tables (ie. the tables with the beer bottle caps inlay). This should be a two part with the resign and activator, and can be ordered online or picked up at Lowes/Home Depot.
2) The hardest part was learning how to safely change the color of the clear epoxy. Research shows that acrylic paint has no effect on the epoxy and final result, which is perfect because you can get/mix any color imaginable without any transparency. I chose to use the best quality paint I could get from the hobby store. Which was a variety pack so I could show you guys how it turns out.
3) For mixing, not a whole lot is needed, but you don't want to end up short. The mix is 1:1, so I just filled up to the first line at the bottom of the dixie cup. So two cups, one with the activator, one with the resin.
Before mixing the two, I added the color to the cup with resin. It doesn't take much, I used about 4 drops of paint, for the white I had to use about 7.
4) Stir in the paint well with popsicle stick (when stirring, try your best not to make air bubbles). Once you have the color mixed in, pour in the activator and stir again until completely mixed. Be sure to scrape the edges and bottom of the plastic cup, ensuring it all gets mixed evenly.
5) Now pour the contents of that cup into another empty cup. After throughly cleaning the badge (I used rubbing alcohol), you're ready to pour in the epoxy. This takes A LOT of patience. Take your time, pour slowly and be sure not to pour too much. You can lightly blow on it to fill in the crevices. The badge must be on a level surface . (I used some stacked drink coasters because of the pegs on the bottom of the badge.)
note: the grill badge must be disassembled, and sealed back together (silicone, hot glue, etc..) Prior to pouring.
6) Once it's poured, blow gently on the epoxy, it will release all the trapped air bubbles. Once you're satisfied, place a cover over the badge to prevent dust or other weird **** from making contact. I used a large plastic mixing bowl and just put it over the badge upside down.
7) Wait about 24 hours and it is now safe to touch, but try not to. If you got any on the chrome, this is the time to remove it. Use an xacto knife and gently scrap off your mistake. Wait two more days before mounting it back on your truck.
IMO
So I've been wanting to change the background color of my ram badge for some time now. The front badge was accomplished by disassembling it, paint, clear, reassemble with epoxy. But the rear badge is an even bigger challenge, with it being one piece.
First things first, I do not believe in using plastidip on my truck for anything, other than a temporary idea of how something would look, and then remove it asap. I have a history of body repair/auto painting, and I'm all about a permanent, professional-looking final product. With that being said, I entertained the idea of taping off the ram, properly prepping the background, paint, clear. But it would be a nightmare to do this perfectly, and not have a risk of peeling/chipping down the road.
This is where the dilemma started. About a month of researching, trying to pick the minds of manufacturers (which do not give up their techniques, because $), and looking at the confused faces of the hobby shop employees when I walk in with a Ram badge. No one had any answers. So I used my own brain and the results met my expectations.
Minimum supplies needed. (If you have tender hands, rubber gloves are recommended)
1) Pick up some pourable epoxy used for bar tables (ie. the tables with the beer bottle caps inlay). This should be a two part with the resign and activator, and can be ordered online or picked up at Lowes/Home Depot.
2) The hardest part was learning how to safely change the color of the clear epoxy. Research shows that acrylic paint has no effect on the epoxy and final result, which is perfect because you can get/mix any color imaginable without any transparency. I chose to use the best quality paint I could get from the hobby store. Which was a variety pack so I could show you guys how it turns out.
3) For mixing, not a whole lot is needed, but you don't want to end up short. The mix is 1:1, so I just filled up to the first line at the bottom of the dixie cup. So two cups, one with the activator, one with the resin.
Before mixing the two, I added the color to the cup with resin. It doesn't take much, I used about 4 drops of paint, for the white I had to use about 7.
4) Stir in the paint well with popsicle stick (when stirring, try your best not to make air bubbles). Once you have the color mixed in, pour in the activator and stir again until completely mixed. Be sure to scrape the edges and bottom of the plastic cup, ensuring it all gets mixed evenly.
5) Now pour the contents of that cup into another empty cup. After throughly cleaning the badge (I used rubbing alcohol), you're ready to pour in the epoxy. This takes A LOT of patience. Take your time, pour slowly and be sure not to pour too much. You can lightly blow on it to fill in the crevices. The badge must be on a level surface . (I used some stacked drink coasters because of the pegs on the bottom of the badge.)
note: the grill badge must be disassembled, and sealed back together (silicone, hot glue, etc..) Prior to pouring.
6) Once it's poured, blow gently on the epoxy, it will release all the trapped air bubbles. Once you're satisfied, place a cover over the badge to prevent dust or other weird **** from making contact. I used a large plastic mixing bowl and just put it over the badge upside down.
7) Wait about 24 hours and it is now safe to touch, but try not to. If you got any on the chrome, this is the time to remove it. Use an xacto knife and gently scrap off your mistake. Wait two more days before mounting it back on your truck.
IMO
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