Changing Oils/Fluids at 100K+

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Lttlcheeze

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Location
B-More MD
Ram Year
2012 Big Horn
Engine
5.7 Hemi
I'm gearing up to change all of my Fluids. I bought her with a little over 50k and am now at about 110k, and plan on changing all of the Oils/Fluids soon, and could use some advice. And just FYI, I'm not sure any of this has been done before.

Planning on changing:
Transmission Fluid
Transfer Case Oil
Diff Oil (F&R)
Coolant
Power Steering
Brake Fluid

Along with:
Sea Foam in Oil & thru Fuel System
Serpentine Belt
Spark Plugs
Adding a Cabin Air Filter
Fuel Filter


OK, and now my issues:

1) I'm not having luck finding the Fuel Filter, any suggestions??

2) What is the preferred Oil Brand? Lucas, Amzoil, Redline, Royal Purple, Mobil, Castrol, Pennziol, Motul, Bel Ray (my personal preferred choice for Motorcycle Oil Products)


3) Thoughts on Fluid Changes:
--I'm definitely planning on doing the DIY Trans Flush.
3A) Should change all the fluids (Transmission, Differentials, Transfer Case, Coolant) again in a few days, because of the mileage? Thoughts?
3B) Thoughts on using SeaFoam Trans Tune, as a Pre-Cleaner before doing the Transmission Flush?
 

jon0m0berry

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2010
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hemi 5.7
youll get a lot of different answers. but as for normal oil/any fluid really, I use Valvoline. ive only used it in all my cars and hasn't once let me down. youll also find some people saying doing a 100% tranny fluid change can actually take away from the life of the tranny. doing just a change only changes about 6-8 quarts out of the total 17 or so. I didn't find it to hard, just time consuming and the smell gave me a headache lol

As for the transfer case. always remove the fill port plug first. ive heard a few time that they went to drain and couldn't get the fill port open. so make sure you open it first, or at least loosen it up before you drain it.

For the spark plugs, its going to take time. the ones in the back are pretty hard to get to. and I was laying all over my motor to position myself to do it, that once I was done I had bruises all over my legs and arms. the easiest way I found was to put each piece in the socket then attaching the next piece making sure it didn't fall in there. once you take them out though you know what to do and installing the new ones will be easy.
As for the cabin air filter, ide skip it. its just another part you need to worry about and if it gets to dirty it can mess up you a/c
Sorry I couldn't answer everything but I told you what I know, hope it helps
 

roastpuff

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As for the cabin air filter, ide skip it. its just another part you need to worry about and if it gets to dirty it can mess up you a/c

It's a yearly maintenance item, and it prevents the heater core from getting too dirty and clogging! You've got it reversed, my man...

The cabin air filter is a great investment.
 

jon0m0berry

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It's a yearly maintenance item, and it prevents the heater core from getting too dirty and clogging! You've got it reversed, my man...

The cabin air filter is a great investment.

idk. if the filter gets dirty it can cause back pressure on the a/c, causing faults. if the heater core gets clogged, its on the outside of the heater core. the coolant will still flow unimpeded causing no issue. im not saying you run a serious risk, as long as you make sure it doesn't get to dirty youll be fine. but personally I wouldnt put it in.
 

TallandRam

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Hemi 6.1
Cabin filter

Do change it every two years or if driving in dusty conditions as needed. If it plugs air won't be able to blow over the heater core and Ac coils, if you leave it out then dirt will plug the outside of the heater core and Ac coils i.e.. A worse problem.
 
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