Differential oil change

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Hemi395

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I did exactly what you guys suggested and pulled the bolts one at a time and added antiseize to the threads so thanks for that suggestion. I'll recheck them in a week or so after some heat cycles.

So while I was under there I figured I'd check my MH trans pan bolts. Good thing I did because 3 of them were essentially coming loose and the rest were not torqued to 105 in/lbs. So those that are running the MH trans pan I would check torque on those bolts.
 

U&A

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I did exactly what you guys suggested and pulled the bolts one at a time and added antiseize to the threads so thanks for that suggestion. I'll recheck them in a week or so after some heat cycles.

So while I was under there I figured I'd check my MH trans pan bolts. Good thing I did because 3 of them were essentially coming loose and the rest were not torqued to 105 in/lbs. So those that are running the MH trans pan I would check torque on those bolts.


Iv been torqueing mine ( PML pan) to about 110 inchlbs and they seem to need re torqued every few months.
 

Hemi395

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Iv been torqueing mine ( PML pan) to about 110 inchlbs and they seem to need re torqued every few months.

I wonder why this is happening on the aluminum pans and not the stock pan. The stock pan bolts were definitely torqued properly when I removed them the first time...
 

U&A

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When welding, Aluminum changes shape much more deasticaly from fast temp change.

Could be why.

We don’t really know how hot these pans get . But it really doesn’t make sense to me either because it can’t be that hot.
 
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R.L.K.

R.L.K.

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I've Tq. checked my Mag-Hyteck xsmn pan four times , the last two times there was no movement , but the first two times there was notable movement .
My Mag-Hyteck xsmn pans new hardware had about 30in lbs of tare so I tq check mine @ 135 in lbs .

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Hemi395

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Checked the torque on the bolts the MH diff cover today and they were all still torqued properly. Also checked the fluid level and it's right where it should be. The magnet on the dipstick had some metal powder on it so it definitely works.

I noticed theres a plug on the back of the cover right about where the rubber fill plug is on the stock cover so I'm thinking this is a good indicator that it's filled properly? I plan on doing a drain and fill again this summer just to clean the drain plug magnet off and I'll let you know.

Love this diff cover! Worth every penny.ffc8ddc41c338a8f9857c54743ad7c9c.jpg
 
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R.L.K.

R.L.K.

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That's an awesome looking cover !

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rotwiler

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Nice cover, was going to do something like that on mine, but when I found out we have drain plug on the oem differential, I decided to just change out fluid like every 15-20k miles, factory fill at 40k looked really good, so maybe 20k would be overkill, but is cheap insurance and better to check for any metal. Had zero metal on magnet.
 

firebuff17

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Getting ready to do front and rear Diff along with t-case fluid change.
I see it’s a 14mm for the rear Diff plug, a 3/8” for the t-case. But I didn’t see any listing for the front Diff.
What size is the front Diff drain/fill plug?
Thanks

Front is an 8mm
 
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pilgrim6

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I hope this wasn't answered already.....
Would it hurt anything to use the same synthetic SAE 75W-140 in both the rear and front diffs?
 

firebuff17

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Tackled this today. I have 67k on the original fluids. Used all Redline fluids curtesy of RLKs advice and all the research he did. Ordered fluids from nick@gotexhaust! Drove around for about 10 mins to warm all the fluids up. Started at the rear and worked forward. Rear diff fluid was smelly and dirty. T-case wasnt terrible. Front Diff was pretty clean. Don’t use 4x4 all that much. Rear and t-case went smooth. Both are easy to get to. I used a cup/funnel that has an on/off twist at the bottom along with about a foot long clear rubber hose. That was fairly easy for the rear and t-case. Front was a pain for me. Hard to get under there. And even harder to fill with my funnel/hose. But it’s done!
 
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R.L.K.

R.L.K.

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Tackled this today. I have 67k on the original fluids. Used all Redline fluids curtesy of RLKs advice and all the research he did. Ordered fluids from nick@gotexhaust! Drove around for about 10 mins to warm all the fluids up. Started at the rear and worked forward. Rear diff fluid was smelly and dirty. T-case wasnt terrible. Front Diff was pretty clean. Don’t use 4x4 all that much. Rear and t-case went smooth. Both are easy to get to. I used a cup/funnel that has an on/off twist at the bottom along with about a foot long clear rubber hose. That was fairly easy for the rear and t-case. Front was a pain for me. Hard to get under there. And even harder to fill with my funnel/hose. But it’s done!
Fantastic ! Glad I could be some help Sir .
You should be good to go for a long time now [emoji106]

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R.L.K.

R.L.K.

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Bump

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R.L.K.

R.L.K.

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Bump

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beep119

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anyone know of a good write up like this on doing the transmission?
This is great information for my 2012 Ram, thanks guys!
 
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R.L.K.

R.L.K.

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anyone know of a good write up like this on doing the transmission?
This is great information for my 2012 Ram, thanks guys!
I have a write up on my 2014 6 speed xsmn .
I'll post it here for you Sir [emoji1303][emoji1303]

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R.L.K.

R.L.K.

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anyone know of a good write up like this on doing the transmission?
This is great information for my 2012 Ram, thanks guys!
Here ya go [emoji16]


http://www.ramforum.com/index.php?posts/1351574


There's lots of info within this thread on the 6 speed & 8 speed xsmn .
Also there's a lot of discussion on the xsfer cases both the BW44-44 and the 44-45 transfer case as well .

Hope this helps !

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beep119

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R.L.K.

R.L.K.

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Glad I could help Sir !

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Jrod

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My service advisor said my dif will be do when I hit 60K miles. I'm currently at 31k. I rarely tow a small 4x8 trailer and I rarely throw it in 4x4. I'm sure it's buried in here somewhere, but do I only need to worry about the rear dif since I run a 1500?
 
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