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00R/T

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You can pretty much ignore the whole 4 to 7 speed conversion part of it. That is basically a standalone system that only connects to the rest of the HVAC system via the fan speed control wire that runs to the blower resistor. If you had an issue with the power to the resistor, the ground, the resistor itself, etc. it wouldn't keep the bezel or radio from powering on - you just wouldn't be able to get the blower to run.

Im confused about which configuration you had where the radio came on but you had no climate controls working. There's 3 connections for the conversion harness.

1)The dash harness plug that used to be plugged into the old bezel
2)The plug on the back of the new control bezel
3)The HVAC module that mounts behind the dash

It sounds like nothing worked when everything (1,2,3) was connected. What other combos (1,3),(1,2), etc. did you try and what was the result with each?
 
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mdxers11

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You can pretty much ignore the whole 4 to 7 speed conversion part of it. That is basically a standalone system that only connects to the rest of the HVAC system via the fan speed control wire that runs to the blower resistor. If you had an issue with the power to the resistor, the ground, the resistor itself, etc. it wouldn't keep the bezel or radio from powering on - you just wouldn't be able to get the blower to run.

Im confused about which configuration you had where the radio came on but you had no climate controls working. There's 3 connections for the conversion harness.

1)The dash harness plug that used to be plugged into the old bezel
2)The plug on the back of the new control bezel
3)The HVAC module that mounts behind the dash

It sounds like nothing worked when everything (1,2,3) was connected. What other combos (1,3),(1,2), etc. did you try and what was the result with each?

after everything was connected, you are right, nothing worked. Then:

1st. I connected the old bezel (24 pin), Boom -- Radio booted right up
2nd. disconnected old bezel, and connected conversion harness ( everything was else was connected per instructions), radio out.
3rd. leaving conversion harness connected, I disconnected hvac module side, Radio booted up again. connected hvac side again, then radio off for a few seconds, then back on. Tried climate settings, but "climate off" displayed and could not change it.
4th. connecting / disconnecting 8 pin new bezel connection did nothing
5th. no lights or functionality on new bezel ( brand new part )
 
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mdxers11

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HOLY *&^, wait a minute...

I have the oempartsco, custom bezel with the volume control button. ( as I have no steering wheel audio. That requires their custom harness plug on the back of the radio that is wired to their volume button. I never removed that. could that have something to do with it?
 

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HOLY *&^, wait a minute...

I have the oempartsco, custom bezel with the volume control button. ( as I have no steering wheel audio. That requires their custom harness plug on the back of the radio that is wired to their volume button. I never removed that. could that have something to do with it?
I'd definitely remove it ! You got it !
 

00R/T

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The first thing I would look at is the CAN-IHS lines. My bet is that there is either a short or they're connected to the wrong pin on either the control module or the bezel.

The radio and the HVAC system are isolated from one another. The only way they communicate with one another is via the CAN bus. It's also possible that you shorted out one of the power circuits and it's shared with the radio (I'm not sure if any are), but that would likely blow a fuse and would persist even after connecting the old stuff back.

What you really need to do is go to each connector, start at the first pin, and work your way around checking continuity to make sure none of them are shorted. So, you would test between 1&2, 1&3, and so on until 1&24. Then, test 2&3, 2&4, on to 2&24. Once you've verified each connector, then verify the connections between the connectors match the diagram.
 

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Great post 00R/T , you must've been typing that up when the OP discovered he had the OEM Autoparts bezel adapter still on the back of the radio.
 
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mdxers11

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The first thing I would look at is the CAN-IHS lines. My bet is that there is either a short or they're connected to the wrong pin on either the control module or the bezel.

The radio and the HVAC system are isolated from one another. The only way they communicate with one another is via the CAN bus. It's also possible that you shorted out one of the power circuits and it's shared with the radio (I'm not sure if any are), but that would likely blow a fuse and would persist even after connecting the old stuff back.

What you really need to do is go to each connector, start at the first pin, and work your way around checking continuity to make sure none of them are shorted. So, you would test between 1&2, 1&3, and so on until 1&24. Then, test 2&3, 2&4, on to 2&24. Once you've verified each connector, then verify the connections between the connectors match the diagram.

You guys are a great help. I am going to disconnect the oemparts co jumper, and start over.

By the way, can I ignore the #7 pin on the 132a connector, blower resistor, and blower power, and just connect the bezel & conversion harness to the control module? I should get power to the bezel, correct?
 

00R/T

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You guys are a great help. I am going to disconnect the oemparts co jumper, and start over.



By the way, can I ignore the #7 pin on the 132a connector, blower resistor, and blower power, and just connect the bezel & conversion harness to the control module? I should get power to the bezel, correct?



Yep. Everything should work except the blower. You may actually have power to the bezel now and don't realize it. When you press a button like the defroster, the light on it won't turn on directly. Instead, the bezel will send a message across the CAN bus to the HVAC module. It then turns on the defroster, and sends a message back to the bezel to turn on the lights. So, even something seemingly simple like pressing the button and getting the light won't work unless both the bezel and module have power and the CAN bus is working.
 

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I'd definitely remove it ! You got it !



Holy crap batman. Lol. It's always the simplest things that kick out butts with electronics. Glad the OP got this figured out.


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mdxers11

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Confessions of shortcomings.

We'll, looks like I used the pin to pin ( 24 connector harness pinout), guide for the 7spd conversion instead of the 4sp pinout. Aside from pin #17, which i did have, everything looks the same. However, I did add unnecessary pins that were in the 7sp, but not in the 4sp. Even though they say (no connect), it's probably worth building another harness.
 

12sportmc

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Confessions of shortcomings.



We'll, looks like I used the pin to pin ( 24 connector harness pinout), guide for the 7spd conversion instead of the 4sp pinout. Aside from pin #17, which i did have, everything looks the same. However, I did add unnecessary pins that were in the 7sp, but not in the 4sp. Even though they say (no connect), it's probably worth building another harness.



Hey man, like I said before it happens to the best of us. Ive been doing wiring and electronics troubleshooting on helicopters for 10+years and still make the occasional mispin. Especially on some of the little bitty connectors I have to deal with. Lol. 128 pins and swap 2...things go all kinds of wonky on these fly by wire aircraft. Glad you're getting it figured out though.


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R.L.K.

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Confessions of shortcomings.

We'll, looks like I used the pin to pin ( 24 connector harness pinout), guide for the 7spd conversion instead of the 4sp pinout. Aside from pin #17, which i did have, everything looks the same. However, I did add unnecessary pins that were in the 7sp, but not in the 4sp. Even though they say (no connect), it's probably worth building another harness.
No worries friend I'm just glad you got it figured out !

Like 12sport above I'm also a Helicopter Tech. and I too have the occasional mispin. ..

Enjoy the upgrade !
 

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Confessions of shortcomings.

We'll, looks like I used the pin to pin ( 24 connector harness pinout), guide for the 7spd conversion instead of the 4sp pinout. Aside from pin #17, which i did have, everything looks the same. However, I did add unnecessary pins that were in the 7sp, but not in the 4sp. Even though they say (no connect), it's probably worth building another harness.
You should be able to keep the extra pins and just re-pin the wire for pin 17 correctly. If I recall, it's the only necessary difference (the extra wires simply won't be used, and makes building them easier).

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R.L.K.

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^^^^^ This ^^^^^ I was thinking the same thing ?

Mpg , the OP had questions on the ground lug ... I've not done the 4 speed conversion.
If you have time ,
Could you please clarify the ground lug question he has .

Hope your son's car is repairable
 

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When I did my 4 speed conversion, I had to remove the grounding lug and put the bolt through the eye of ground wire connector and then tighten it back down. If I remember right there was a washer on the bolt, so I put the ground wire connector against the frame of truck and then tightened the bolt and washer down against it.


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00R/T

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For the ring terminal, it's definitely better if you can get one that the bolt goes through so it will be more secure.

When I did mine, I realized I forgot to order ring terminals so I took a trip to Lowe's. The 10awg terminals they had by themselves had a ring that was too small to work with the bolt in the truck. But, they also had an assortment pack that had 10awg terminals with multiple size rings. I bought that, and used one of the bigger rings that would fit the bolt.
 
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mdxers11

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For the ring terminal, it's definitely better if you can get one that the bolt goes through so it will be more secure.

When I did mine, I realized I forgot to order ring terminals so I took a trip to Lowe's. The 10awg terminals they had by themselves had a ring that was too small to work with the bolt in the truck. But, they also had an assortment pack that had 10awg terminals with multiple size rings. I bought that, and used one of the bigger rings that would fit the bolt.

Thanks found one at Autozone as lowes 10AWG rings too small for the bolt. Large ring terminals 2 bucks
 

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