How To 4th gen tow mirror parking light mod

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myoung84

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Here’s a simple write-up on turning the tow mirror turn signal lights into parking lights and signal lights using diodes and resistors. This allows the lights to function as normal signal lights with the parking lights on at a dimmer level. The resistor can be changed to adjust the brightness of the parking lights. I am doing this from memory, so please test each wire before cutting or tapping in to it. Also, test the direction of the diodes before soldering. I’m fairly certain I stated the correct direction, but you’ll need to make sure. Installing them backwards won’t damage anything, they lights just won’t light up. You’ll need two diodes for each door (1N4003 or similar from Radio Shack will work) and one resistor (standard ½ watt will work). 100 ohm is what I am using for now.

Start by removing your door panels. The small triangle panel behind the mirror pops off. Tthen remove the (6) plastic torx screws from inserts around the outsides of the door panel. After those are removed, the inserts can be popped out. There’s also a screw behind the door handle that’s under a small cover. This can be popped open with a small screwdriver. Once the screw is removed, the trim piece around the door handle will need to be removed. Then you can lift the door panel up and remove it. Unplug the connectors at the window/lock switches and the panel is free. Also, remove the kick panel covers. Start by popping up the back portion of the sill plate and move forward, then pull straight back and the panel comes free.

You’ll need to run a wire through the door jamb on both doors. Something small like 18-22 gauge will work fine. You can pop the rectangle connector from the door jamb, it’s held in place by plastic clips that you will need to push down. Then unplug the wire harnesses, the driver side will have two and the passenger side will have one. Remove the torx screws holding the rubber loom to the door and remove the tape around the metal and plastic. This will allow you to pop the plastic cover off and have room to route your wires. The passenger side will have plenty of free space to run the wire. The driver side is a little more difficult since it has two connectors. There will be an empty hole in one of the plastic connectors that you can fish the wire through. A coat hanger helps with passing the wires through the loom. Once the wire is through the loom, then tape everything back up and put the loom back on the truck. Leave enough wire on the door side to go to the door module. I ran the wire on the driver side door across the truck to the passenger kick panel and left about a foot for the passenger door in the same place.

There’s a small electrical module on each door with a few connectors plugged in. Find the one that goes to the mirror and cut the black wire with grey stripe, leaving plenty of room for soldering or crimping on connectors. You will have to remove some of the tape around the harness to expose more wire. Starting with the wire on the mirror side, solder the two sides of the diodes with the stripe to this wire. Then solder the connector side of the wire to the opposite side of one of the diodes. Then take the wire you ran through the door and solder to the other diode. All of these connections can also be crimped with butt connectors, however soldering will be better. Use shrink wrap to seal all connections.

Since my truck has factory cab lights, I was able to tap into this wire behind the passenger side A-pillar cover that feeds them. I’m not sure if all trucks have this harness or not. If not, you’ll need to find a wire that’s on with the parking lights. To remove the A-pillar cover, pop open the covers and remove the two 10mm bolts. The cover will then pop off. The wire for the cab lights is white with green stripe. Splice into this wire and run it down to the passenger kick panel. Connect the two wires from the doors to one side of the resistor and connect the wire from the parking lights to the other side. I used male and female spade connectors to wire up my resistor. This allows me to easily swap out resistors if needed. I first tried a 50 ohm resistor and there wasn’t a lot of difference in output from the turn signals to the parking lights, so I stepped up to a 100 ohm. This is plenty bright at night and there’s a noticeable difference in output when the turn signal is on. My lights are also tinted, so your results may differ. Reinstall the kick panel covers and door panels and you are done.
 

0212353

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nice Morgan!
 

Musclemckeester

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Great writeup! I'm assuming the lights are flashing fast because you're just hitting the unlock versus the regular turn signal being a slower flash?
 
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myoung84

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Thanks guys!

Great writeup! I'm assuming the lights are flashing fast because you're just hitting the unlock versus the regular turn signal being a slower flash?

Yes, I was just hitting the unlock button. I don't know why I didn't turn the flashers on, that would have made more sense. Drank a lot of *** last night, that could be part of it. :D
 

(S.M.R) 101

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Damn dude.... I really have been wanting to do this...

Might need to make a trip to broken arrow so you can help me do this lol
 

ATOM

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i'd like to do this but i wonder if it'd catch my eye when driving..
 

ATOM

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good to know. might have to try this when i wire up my sport mirrors
 

pullthis

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myoung84 nice write up.
has anyone else done this?
quick question. the diode is to keep the maker light power from back feeding into the module correct? I would tie in the power between the diode and the mirror?
 

MoreOvalteenPlz

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Old thread bump here but I FINALLY got around to doing this after first seeing it a couple years ago. Install was the same for my '13 using the same materials and wires OP used. Since I don't have factory cab lights, I had to tap into the rear running light wire (white with gray stripe) on the outside of the truck under the driver's front door. Soldered and heat shrunk every connection except for the resistor which I used quick disconnects for, as per myoung84's instructions should I ever want to swap out resistors. Took my time (started drinking beer) and it turned into an all-afternoon project. Absolutely love the outcome and look. They work perfectly with any combination of lights on at once (unlock/lock, running lights on/off, turn signals, hazards, etc.). Now I need to do a similar if not exact same mod to the lights I have on the sides of my toolbox to match, as they are solely connected to the rear running lights. Hope this helps or sparks interest for anyone wanting a unique look for their tow mirrors.

Here are some vids of them in action:
Day version: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WQXJLikp07E
Night version: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fzdeNH5sqRA

IMG_7008.jpg

IMG_7013.jpg

IMG_7012.jpg
 
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firemedic10584

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Well I'm one of the guys whose been considering doing this mod. I'll be doing it now lol.
 

Frost

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I have to consider this on my 2015 Orange Ignition package. Already considering hooking up the front turn/markers to be DRL's. I have heard that the dealership will do this for you, if not I may use the same approach for them as the sport mirrors.
 

firemedic10584

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I have to consider this on my 2015 Orange Ignition package. Already considering hooking up the front turn/markers to be DRL's. I have heard that the dealership will do this for you, if not I may use the same approach for them as the sport mirrors.

I hooked my LED turn signals up on my 2013 as DRLs. My dealers around me both said it couldn't be done. A simple 40$ module and about 30 minutes of my time and I've had DRLs now for probably 8 or 9 months with no issues. I love them. PM if you'd like further information on the DRL module. I probably won't check this thread again for a little while.
 

ctdlaramie15

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Okay so a quick little update guys! So yesterday I installed my tow mirror mod using 2 diodes and a 100 ohm 1/2 watt resistor. The mod lookes amazing and also the fact that it doubles as a turn signal still is perfect. So some information for you guys without Factory clearance lights.

If you pop off the passenger side plastic cover on the door side of the glove box it will reveal a connector. The wires will travel up your a pillar but as you may notice the white and green traced wire may not be there for the non clearance light package. However if you go down to the plug and unplug it. Then remove it from the metal that holds it in place you should see a white wire with green tracer. Just cut it off there and hook it up to the wire you ran through the door into the can and you good to go !

Good luck !

Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk
 

Ramit2016

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I've been wanting to have this option since I bought my truck 2yrs ago. Thanks for the write up!
 
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