How To Add115v AC Outlet w/ Inverter, Harness and Bracket

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PNUTLT1

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Hi,
So this weekend I finally cleared my schedule to do some minor surgery on the Ram. I do not want to take credit for this DIY because I got help from 00/RT, Ricks Ram and Benny from ALLMOPARPARTS.
I believe 00/RT did this already, but I wanted to show some pics and give part numbers to the parts needed.

So lets get started!

I believe this is only for 13-17 Rams Single Cabs since the 2009-2012 AC Outlets are not the same.
I also say single cab because my truck has all the wiring behind the dash as did 00/RT but Ricks Ram truck didn't have it and he had to wire from the inverter to the dash.

So the parts needed are
Inverter 5026486AA
Inverter Bracket 68050503AA
AC Outlet 68159295AB
Harness for Non-Power Adjusting, Airbag Seat 68203804AB
Harness for Non-Power Adjusting, Aribag Seat w/ Heated Element 68203797AC (May want to Double Check w/ Benny or Dealership)
1 Terminal P/N 7116-4100-02
A Male Spade Connector or Quick-Connect T-Tap to Get 12v Remote Power from Cigarette Lighter or Somewhere else.
Piece of 16-18 Gauge Wire about 12-15"
Crimp Tools (I Used Needle Nose Pliers)
Hook-Pick Tools to De-Pin Harness

Step 1:
Remove Negative Battery Terminal, Remove Radio Trim, Center Console ETC.
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Step 2:
My truck came with the jump seat and the OEM cigarette lighter was on the dash under the radio, now with my center console, the cigarette lighter is on the console and my old one is unused so I figure I would use it as a 12v Switched remote power to tap the outlet to make it turn on. So I located it and used a male spade connector I attached to my piece of power wire to just slip it in and on the opposite side I used the terminal 7116-4100-02 that goes to pin 5 of the AC Outlet.
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Step 3: Depin the Pin 5 from the OEM AC Outlet harness. That is the switched power coming from the BCM and since these cannot be flashed you are pretty much adding your 12v Remote power to turn on the inverter. Once you remove Pin 5 (or add it if your truck didn't have it) add the power wire with the terminal you added to pin 5 and put the retainer clip back on the plug and connect the harness into the 115v AC outlet and reinstall radio trim, center console, etc.
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Step 4: Remove passenger side seat and remove the exiting harness and add new harness in its place. Remove the bottom flap and put the bracket on the seat with screws and bolts. I haven't done this yet but i seen where it goes, pretty self explanatory, I haven't got the screws and bolts that is why lol. Once the bracket and harness are in, mount the inverter with screws. I don't know the size but I will go tomorrow to the hardware store to get the 4 bolts to screw in the inverter to the inverter bracket. Reinstall the seat and connect the harness to the floor harness.


Step 5: Reinstall Battery Post and insert fuse in underhood fuse box if the power inverter is missing. Surprisingly my truck already had the fuse.


Enjoy your 150 watts of Glory lol.
Its good enough for me to charge my laptop, my iphone and its pretty much OEM other than the 12V remote power you need to tap into or put a switch for. And for all the people with OCD like me, its OEM so no need to have a inverter under the hood or behind the dash that should be there lol.

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20170226_212819784_iOS.jpg
 
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00R/T

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Nice write up! I'm glad you were able to get it working.

For anyone that has added upgraded seats (Big Horn, Laramie, Rebel, etc.) and have a single cab or another truck that has all the wiring in place, the only part you'll need to do is add the switched power to pin 5.
 

CuylerTech

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Nice write up! I'm glad you were able to get it working.

For anyone that has added upgraded seats (Big Horn, Laramie, Rebel, etc.) and have a single cab or another truck that has all the wiring in place, the only part you'll need to do is add the switched power to pin 5.

Did you try doing it with the AE and seeing if it turned on? I turned mine on but I have the cheat book to do it lol. :hidesbehindsofa:
 

00R/T

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Did you try doing it with the AE and seeing if it turned on? I turned mine on but I have the cheat book to do it lol. :hidesbehindsofa:



I did. I believe Rick did as well. There were multiple settings related to the inverter and I couldn't find a combo that worked. So, I took a look at the schematic and figured this way wasn't that much of a "hack". I just ran an extra switched power off my HVAC harness when I made it.
 
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PNUTLT1

PNUTLT1

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Nice write up! I'm glad you were able to get it working.

For anyone that has added upgraded seats (Big Horn, Laramie, Rebel, etc.) and have a single cab or another truck that has all the wiring in place, the only part you'll need to do is add the switched power to pin 5.

Yes that is correct. And it seems to me that all 13-17 Ram Regular Cabs have the wiring from the back of the dash to the bottom of the seat.
Your Ram had it, my ram had it, and my friend with a 2013 Ram Rebel Clone Regular Cab has the wiring too.
He is going to do the mod soon too.

I guess Ram gave all the Regular Cab trucks the same harness to save money.
 

CuylerTech

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Yes that is correct. And it seems to me that all 13-17 Ram Regular Cabs have the wiring from the back of the dash to the bottom of the seat.
Your Ram had it, my ram had it, and my friend with a 2013 Ram Rebel Clone Regular Cab has the wiring too.
He is going to do the mod soon too.

I guess Ram gave all the Regular Cab trucks the same harness to save money.

Ey you know adan?
 
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PNUTLT1

PNUTLT1

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So the Bolts that I used to hold the inverter onto the bracket are M4X.07X10mm with some washers and the bolts for the bracket to the seat are M5X.08x20mm. I used washers and some nuts on that and now its like OEM.
Awesome new feature to have on the truck.
 

HvyDuty

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Thanks for the writeup! I'm attempting this mod on a 2016 2500 Tradesman crew cab. I already installed Big Horn/Lone Star seats and the inverter and harness came with it. :happy107:

I have the plug for the 115V outlet already behind the dash. Instead of re-pinning the harness, I just cut the No.5 wire and butt connected 12V switched power tapped from the left 12V switched outlet (I have bench seats). EDIT:Quick question, did you all terminate the No.5 wire? Should I apply 12V to the truck side as well?

I put everything back together and no joy... I checked for 12v at the 115V outlet and its there. I got the 115v outlet and trim piece from salvage as well. Is it possible the problem is the outlet itself? I opened up the inverter and everything looks good/dry (no evidence of burning/shorts). I did get the seats from a flood truck.

Did something change for 2016? Is there a harness I'm missing? My plug in the dash matched the schematic above (wire colors). Thanks for any help!
 

HvyDuty

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Work is slow so I did a little more troubleshooting this morning.

I swapped out my known good inverter module from my 17 with the salvage one. I just now noticed the little orange light comes on, but only when the truck is running, not in acc or on position. I also unplugged the module and the orange light stayed on, but when I plug in a 115V phone charger, no juice module plugged in or not, orange light still lit.

In the 17 the orange light comes on with key in acc or on. I'm at a loss and about to give up...
 

Moab_Rockstar

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Are you sure you have all the wiring under seat? There should be a hot lead going to the inverter straight from the PDC. It's a Red/Green wire, should be a 14 gauge. There is a ground 14 gauge, and three green/striped wires that are AC Voltage 1, 2, &3. that go to the plug in the dash. There's an inverter status wire that doesn't go anywhere.

On the inverter plug:
1: 110V line 2
2: not populated
3: not populated
4: Fused Battery (from PDC)
5: 110V line 1
6: 110V line 3
7: inverter status (goes no where)
8: Ground

I'm currently working on this myself. I had the wiring in the dash, and up to my black connector in the kick panel passenger side. On the body harness, there's nothing. My harness under the seat only has the wires for the airbags. The harness I'm supposed to have under the seat isn't there. I ran a power lead to the PDC to the correct terminal (all PDCs are teh same for gas engine, and there's one for Diesel), and I've built the rest of the harness to the inverter, I'm just waiting to get the pins to go to the kick panel connector.
 

HvyDuty

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Are you sure you have all the wiring under seat? There should be a hot lead going to the inverter straight from the PDC. It's a Red/Green wire, should be a 14 gauge. There is a ground 14 gauge, and three green/striped wires that are AC Voltage 1, 2, &3. that go to the plug in the dash. There's an inverter status wire that doesn't go anywhere.

On the inverter plug:
1: 110V line 2
2: not populated
3: not populated
4: Fused Battery (from PDC)
5: 110V line 1
6: 110V line 3
7: inverter status (goes no where)
8: Ground

I'm currently working on this myself. I had the wiring in the dash, and up to my black connector in the kick panel passenger side. On the body harness, there's nothing. My harness under the seat only has the wires for the airbags. The harness I'm supposed to have under the seat isn't there. I ran a power lead to the PDC to the correct terminal (all PDCs are teh same for gas engine, and there's one for Diesel), and I've built the rest of the harness to the inverter, I'm just waiting to get the pins to go to the kick panel connector.

Thanks for the reply. My truck also has the plug behind the dash with the correct wires up to the 115V outlet. The harness from the Lone Star seat has the correct harness with plug into the inverter module. The seat harness plugs right into the yellow connector coming out of the floor of the truck.

I have not yet checked the truck side of the yellow plug. But from looking from the rear, it looks like the wiring is there.

I also have a spare seat harness I pulled from salvage, too bad your in Michigan ha
 

HvyDuty

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Well, I'm a dummy. Theres only three wires going into that yellow connector on the floor on the truck side... Like yours, the wiring on the body/floor does not have the inverter wiring.

Could you please post how you made the harness to get this to work? Thanks so much.
 

Moab_Rockstar

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When I have it working, I'm planning to put up the details of everything I had to do. I skipped the yellow connector, and just made a harness to go directly from the PDC and dash harness (black kick panel connector) to the Inverter under the seat. The PDC power actually goes through the driver side bulk head connector, then crosses under the seats to the passenger side.

Here's what I know from the schematics:
On the PDC, the power comes from the light grey connector, slot 38. It uses the same socket as the large sockets in the inverter connector at 1, 4, 5, and 8,

On the black connector, you need pins 32, 35, and 43. The ground can go to any seat bolt, or there is a bolt in the passenger kick panel that can be used.
32: 110V line 1
35: 110V line 3
43: 110V line 2

There are terminal repair kits for the yellow connectors that are supposed to have all the pins/sockets. For the body side it's 05019928AA and about 90 bucks. I don't know if it has leads for the kick panel connector or not. All the item descriptions I've found for it are fairly useless. At some point I'll look those pins up individually. It's likely the are the same as one of the other connectors.
Black connector repair kits:
68316928AA terminal body IP 3 2.8mm 18g pin kit 36.85
68316924AA terminal body IP 3 1.5mm 20g pin kit 32.00 There's no 18 gauge repair kit, but 20 is what is used in the production harness apparently.

I found the pins I need for the black kick panel connector, but I won't have them until tomorrow. The one place that sells them in reasonable quantities is Nexus Electronics in California, and the minimum order is 50. I imagine I'll have a few extra available. SMD Inc also has them, but they don't give you a cost, you have to submit a quote request, which generally means a lot.
7114-4101-02 1.5mm 16-18 gauge (2)
7114-4112-02 2.8mm 14 gauge (1) -The 16-18 gauge pins were not in stock, 3 week lead time
 
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HvyDuty

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Wow, thank you for the info. :favorites13: I'm no electrician, would be awesome if you could add a how-to with pics. Thanks
 

unctucker

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All that and no finished picture's
[emoji53]

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk
 

Moab_Rockstar

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I found an issue with this step:

Step 3: Depin the Pin 5 from the OEM AC Outlet harness. That is the switched power coming from the BCM and since these cannot be flashed you are pretty much adding your 12v Remote power to turn on the inverter. Once you remove Pin 5 (or add it if your truck didn't have it) add the power wire with the terminal you added to pin 5 and put the retainer clip back on the plug and connect the harness into the 115v AC outlet and reinstall radio trim, center console, etc.
picture.php

I don't know what year your truck is, but mine is a 2017. In 2017, this connector now only has 6 pins, and the layout is different. It obviously changed at some point.

picture.php


I also have a different part number for the outlet. 56046934AA - the parts site says 2014 to 2019
68159295AB - says 2013 to 2016

Where it gets really weird though, is that if I look up 2016MY DS or DJ, it shows the 8 pin connector and layout for the IP outlet. For the plug in the inverter, things appear to be the same. I'm guessing the outlet for 2017 trucks goes back to 2014 in a different program, maybe WD/WK or KL. The 6 pin connector appears to be in DS and DJ etc for 2017

The kick panel connectors are different between 1500 and 2500/3500. The connectors for the inverter appear to all be the same. The connector for the outlets appear to be the same, but change at 17MY

"FCA = friggin' connector anarchy"
 
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