need help with tranny fluid, filter and transfer case fluid change

jon0m0berry · Mar 4, 2015

I just got a used 2010 hemi 4x4 crew cab 5 speed and am loving it. but its at 78500 miles and there is no record of the tranny fluid, filter or transfer case fluid being done at the 60000 mile mark. my truck didn't come with a Manuel but I found one online. it did tell me what kind of fluid is needed, but it doesn't give how much tranny fluid or transfer case fluid will be needed nor does it specify what of the two fluids it says the transfer case calls for, ATF+4 or NVG 246 fluid. how can I tell what transfer case fluid ill need and how much of both will I need? I've never done a tranny or transfer case fluid/filter change before. im no mechanic but im also not 100% new to working on cars either. is there anything I need to watch for while doing this? also on a side note while I was checking my tranny fluid at normal operating temp it was a little low and I added fluid and I think I over filled it 1/2-2/3 of a quart. do I need to worry? any info helps thank you

Jmhm17 · Mar 10, 2015

Why not just take it to the dealer and pay them to deal with it? Its going to cost a lot of money either way. I know on my 2014 both diffs, transfer case, and tranny are all different types of fluid. Previous experience with any drive train fluid has proved that for stock applications the factory stuff is the best. Save the hassle and just pay the dealer.

DannyMK2 · Mar 10, 2015

haynes manuals are nice because they list all the fluid capacities and torque specs required for things like this. transfer case should take atf+4. dont remember the exact capacities. i think around 2 quarts for the transfer case and 6.5 quarts for a 4x4 transmission when doing a pan drop and filter change. if your pumping out the torque converter and lines its somewhere around 16 quarts. i suggest a pan drop.

pickupman66 · Mar 18, 2015

The trans pan drop is pretty easy. just a bunch of 8MM bolts and she is dropped. mine held 8 quarts. its a 2009 4x4 quad cab hemi laramie. one or two are directly underneath the exhaust so you may need a swivel.

once the pan is dropped, you will need to unscrew the trans cooler return filter. it looks like an oil filter. very easy to change. then you change the trans filter. there are two of them at Oreilley. I dont remember the PN, but I needed the one I didnt get. one has a shorter tube on it so that it can fit in the pan. My pan was basically flat at the tail of the trans where exhaust went under it. Also, there is a metal rubber seal on this tube that still stay in the trans. take some needle nose and remove it and trash.

clean the pan up and the trans body carefuly to remove old silicone. then make you a new seal on the pan and put it back on. I used red high temp RTV silicone cause that just what I always use here. previous mechanic didnt and mine was leaky.

torque on the little bolts is 35 ft/lbs I believe.

FXCLM5 · Mar 21, 2015

Jmhm17 said:
Why not just take it to the dealer and pay them to deal with it? Its going to cost a lot of money either way. I know on my 2014 both diffs, transfer case, and tranny are all different types of fluid. Previous experience with any drive train fluid has proved that for stock applications the factory stuff is the best. Save the hassle and just pay the dealer.

nope

i used to be a mercedes tech

all this is a glorified oil change

its really really not that hard, transmission is ran in ATF with detergent fluid to keep the fluid clean, however it builds up a ****load of sediment on the bottom of the pan - way worst then the oil pan just because you are swapping engine oil at 3-5k intervals and some trannies go 60 or 100k before needing a oil changed

just make sure you clean all the sediment off the pan before reinstalling, make sure you have the correct gaskets or use rtv silicone like suggested,

the only thing different from a oil change vs a tranmission oil change is i took the transmission pan and stuck it in the parts washer for 15 mins,

the price is ridiculous overpriced because once i set my drain bucket and i pop the drain bolts/nuts i walk away and let it drain, its not like i sit there and wait 5 mins to completely drain and do nothing, if the tech was smart he would be draining the diff, tranny, tcase and engine oil all at the same time

this is simple stuff you can do yourself, no special tools required, when special tools are required - you can rent them, and if you cant - usually means the job is big enough it requires a full shop to service it.

Jmhm17 · Mar 23, 2015

FXCLM5 said:
nope

i used to be a mercedes tech

all this is a glorified oil change

its really really not that hard, transmission is ran in ATF with detergent fluid to keep the fluid clean, however it builds up a ****load of sediment on the bottom of the pan - way worst then the oil pan just because you are swapping engine oil at 3-5k intervals and some trannies go 60 or 100k before needing a oil changed

just make sure you clean all the sediment off the pan before reinstalling, make sure you have the correct gaskets or use rtv silicone like suggested,

the only thing different from a oil change vs a tranmission oil change is i took the transmission pan and stuck it in the parts washer for 15 mins,

the price is ridiculous overpriced because once i set my drain bucket and i pop the drain bolts/nuts i walk away and let it drain, its not like i sit there and wait 5 mins to completely drain and do nothing, if the tech was smart he would be draining the diff, tranny, tcase and engine oil all at the same time

this is simple stuff you can do yourself, no special tools required, when special tools are required - you can rent them, and if you cant - usually means the job is big enough it requires a full shop to service it.

How do you recommend cleaning the pan if you don't have a parts cleaner? Can you use some kind of spray? or just give it a good wipe down?

Havix00 · Mar 23, 2015

Jmhm17 said:
How do you recommend cleaning the pan if you don't have a parts cleaner? Can you use some kind of spray? or just give it a good wipe down?

I just drained mine out, sprayed it with a hose, and wiped it down with a towel. As long as there's no sediment or pools of water afterward, it should be fine.

DannyMK2 · Mar 23, 2015

Jmhm17 said:
How do you recommend cleaning the pan if you don't have a parts cleaner? Can you use some kind of spray? or just give it a good wipe down?

brake cleaner and a rag.

dtexan · May 11, 2015

Are there any fill bolts on the top or just fill through the dip stick?

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DannyMK2 · May 12, 2015

dtexan said:
Are there any fill bolts on the top or just fill through the dip stick?

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

fill through the dipstick

jadocs · May 12, 2015

Use a hand pump to pump out the tranny fluid through the dipstick. This way you won't take a bath when you drop the pan.

need help with tranny fluid, filter and transfer case fluid change

jon0m0berry

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Jmhm17

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DannyMK2

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pickupman66

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FXCLM5

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Jmhm17

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Havix00

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DannyMK2

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dtexan

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