OEM 4 Button AUX Switch Panel

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Merives

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Led light bar in 2017

I have a factory installed Aux switch..they now have a port that you plug into to run your accessories..I bought a Trail Master LED light bar...it comes with a pre wired switch that mounts in the cab, that I don't want to use...
My question is ...the switch has three wires running into it and all of the wires that plug into the ports/PDC are single wire...do you have any idea how to wire this?? I saw in a earlier post where someone said just insert the wires in the port...
 

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Vncnz

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So if I have the heated seat option and steering wheel panel I can't do the sux panel? They don't have all that combined?


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abbttb

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I would like to add the auxiliary switches to my 2016 2500. Does anyone have the part numbers for the switch panel?

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LB3711

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So if I have the heated seat option and steering wheel panel I can't do the sux panel? They don't have all that combined?


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no never was because its not a Ram 1500 option

I would like to add the auxiliary switches to my 2016 2500. Does anyone have the part numbers for the switch panel?

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THis thread if for the 2009-2012 Rams. Not sure If there is a setup for the 2013+ Rams
 

Stewbuntu

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Update: Found something, but maybe you guys know of something better otherwise I'll get these and shrink wrap the colored wires black and add wire loom.
Hella waterproof relay connector
https://www.amazon.com/HELLA-H84709001-Weatherproof-Relay-Connector/dp/B000VU9D0C


Original Post

Hi Jwheeler,

I'm new to this forum. This thread was linked on a Cummins forum. I saw your post and was wondering where you got the relay harnesses that clip to your firewall edge like that. Did you heat shrink and do the loom? I'm going to start doing it like that, It looks clean, professional, and OEM, vs the cheap harnesses with red, yellow and black wires. It's the top pic in the quote.

Thanks soo much if anyone knows! I'm planing for this mod and I'm hoping to line 4 up just like that. A search for Omron relays etc didn't work.

relays - no harness :( https://www.omron.com/ecb/products/search/?cat=1&did=6&prd=auto-iso&lang=en

Merry belated Christmas and Happy new year everyone,

Stew




That looks pretty good. I just made a little harness before I installed mine. I made it so the little connector that goes to the switch panel had 1 foot of wire to tap into the power for the key on power port, 2 feet of wire to run to a ground in the left kick panel and about 6 feet of wire, all different colors, that I ran through the firewall. I used two of the wires to got to relays that are mounted on the cowl for lights I have on the front. The others two are bundled up so they are easily accessible and are waiting to go to my lights on the back. Keeps the relay were you can get to them if you need to and limits the amount of extra wiring inside.



8fbfb360b226e834a822b652116856fe.jpg9b4b4bb561b65f1e3114a15431d72411.jpg


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ISKRA

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It took a lot of research, but I finally figured it out! If you do not have an upfitter harness or wiring, you can make your own as described in this thread. I was stuck with the OEM connector (5 aux button panel) and how to wire my switches. If you want to save yourself a lot of time to avoid drilling, soldering and keep a nice clean look, here are the part numbers:

Manufacturer: TE Connectivity
Connector part #: 1456989-3
Terminal (pins, female) 18 AWG: 1393366-1

We all have the connector already so you just need the terminals. Hope this helped, took me close to 6 months of research to find that.

The terminals should fit the 4 button aux panel, can anyone verify?
 

jwheeler

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It took a lot of research, but I finally figured it out! If you do not have an upfitter harness or wiring, you can make your own as described in this thread. I was stuck with the OEM connector (5 aux button panel) and how to wire my switches. If you want to save yourself a lot of time to avoid drilling, soldering and keep a nice clean look, here are the part numbers:

Manufacturer: TE Connectivity
Connector part #: 1456989-3
Terminal (pins, female) 18 AWG: 1393366-1

We all have the connector already so you just need the terminals. Hope this helped, took me close to 6 months of research to find that.

The terminals should fit the 4 button aux panel, can anyone verify?



What is the point of the special terminals? Do you have the switch panel and the pigtail connector for it that you can purchase right from your local dealer?


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maxx442

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What is the point of the special terminals? Do you have the switch panel and the pigtail connector for it that you can purchase right from your local dealer?


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You need them for the '13 and up Rams. There is no factory pigtail available for the newer models.
 

Sldnx419

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Can someone tell me if the harness is needed? Trying to figure out what the plug is behind the panel that comes out of the vehicle already. It plugs right in. Obviously doesn't do anything.


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shadowhawk

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Can you please reload the pictures from the first page? They are not showing. Thanks.

gotta love the photobucket syndrome. 90% of what I want to see is unavailable because of their policy change.
 

CantRepeat

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Here's the diagram I created. Keep in mind that the relays can be installed anywhere. Rather than run large gauge wiring into the cab for the relays, you can run a smaller gauge wire from the switch panel to under the hood (or where ever your lights or loads are installed). These are the blue, green, yellow, and purple wires on the diagram.

SwitchPackWiring_zpsbd752d0e.jpg


Any chance we can get this image hosted some where else? Or could you PM me a copy of it?

Thanks.
 

Big_ram_1500

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I have gotten a lot of requests for help with wiring the OEM Cab and Chassis switch panel, so I figured I’d put everything in one post. For those that don’t know what it is, the switch panel installs on the lower portion of the dash and replaces the RAM insert. If you have factory heated seats then you already have a switch panel there and it cannot be replaced or modified. The new switch panel has (4) AUX buttons and cannot be modified.

Part numbers for the switch panel and pigtail wiring harness are below along with links to the online store where I purchased my parts. The wire harness is required.

5164912AC - Switch Panel
68057288AA - Pigtail Wiring

Mopar Part 5164912AC INSTRUMENT PANEL SWITCH
Mopar Part 68057288AA 8 WAY WIRING

The wire harness will come with the plastic plug and 8 loose wires with metal ends crimped on. You will need to insert 7 of the 8 wires into the plug. Take note of the missing pin in the switch panel and don’t put a wire in that hole. Using the wiring diagram below, start wiring the panel once installed in the dash. Pins 1 and 7 are the 12V inputs. These should both go to a switched 12V source. You can also wire one or both wires to a constant 12V source and this would allow the switches to be operational when the truck is off. I would recommend not doing this since you would have the potential to drain the battery if you leave something on. Pin 2 will go to ground. Finally, pins 3-6 are the ground output wires for buttons 1-4. These will go to one side of the coil on a relay.

SwitchPackInstall-1_zps52c58ec8.jpg

All wiring past this point will depend on what you are powering and will vary on each installation. The most common scenario such as lights would require a single relay per button. One of the output wires from the switch panel would go to the coil on the relay, either pin 85 or 86, doesn’t matter. The other side of the coil will go to a 12V source. This can be a constant source directly from the battery or you can jumper off pins 1 and 7 from the switch panel if you are installing the relays inside the truck. For my lights, I ran the output wire from the switch panel under the hood and mounted my relays near the battery.

You have the option of switching the 12V side or the ground side of your lights. I normally switch the 12V side. You would need to run the appropriate size wire from the battery, through a fuse, and to pin 87 on the relay. I will normally make a jumper wire from this pin to the 12V side of the coil on the relay, there’s no need to have separate wires ran. Then run the same size wire from pin 30 to the 12V side of your lights or other load. The ground side of you lights will go directly to ground. If you choose to switch the ground side, you will run your ground wire through pins 87 and 30 and connect the 12V side of your lights directly to the battery, through a fuse. You’ll also need to run a separate 12V wire to the coil of the relay.


Edit: Added wiring diagram to clear up some confusion.

SwitchPackWiring_zpsbd752d0e.jpg

I was wondering if this would work on a 2012 1500
 

John1331

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I am trying to wire the 4 button aux switch on my 2012 3500 Dodge. I have seen the wiring diagrams that are in photobucket, which are illegible. I have also seen the smart draw diagram which has multiple devices which also becomes confusing. I am not an electrician but just looking at installing the switch and using it for a back up camera. I was going to simply replace the blank ram plate and install a simple off/on switch but I thought I would reach out for help one last time. Can someone make it very simple, this is my understanding. The plug on the back of the 4 button switch are as follows; Ign switch power goes to plug 1 and 7, ground to plug 2. plug 6 goes to relay 85. In regard to the plug, is the release/catch on the 1-4 or 5-7 side of the plug? relay 30 goes to back up camera. battery goes to relay 87 and a jumper goes from relay 87 to relay 86. Does this sound correct? The same steps for the relays would be on plug 3,4,5 for additional devices.
 

Jcockrell

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anyone have a part number for the 2010 - 2012 OEM relay box that would normally sit under the hood? .... I'm interested in seeing what the cost is and if it's worth using it on m install aux switch install rather than just mounting the relays somewhere else.
 

JGrow

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