Engine & Performance DIY

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OklaHemi

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04
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new age hemi
so all the reseach was done by a friend of mine and he deserves all the credit. but here is what you will need and how i did it w/ pics

i used

18g speaker wire i had lying around.
a solder gun
4.7k-ohm 1/4 watt resistors from radio shack
heat shrink tubing
and spade connectors
wire loom(optional)


1. basically cut 2 pieces of wire to 2.5 to 3" in length.
2. cut the ends of the resistor to about 0.5 to 1" in length
3. solder the resistor between the wires
4. slide heat shrink over resistor and apply heat to make it do its job(shrink)
5. put a spade connector on either end, use a male on one end and a female on the other
6. got to you truck and locate you IAT sensor wire, cut either wire and add a spade connector, male on one end and a female on the other.
7. plug in your homemade power wire wanna be.
8. add wire loom if you so desire to clean things up a little.
9. reset you pcm and enjoy

this is not recommended for turbo'd vehicles, sorry cummins guys.
there is a company that makes plug and play versions which may be better for people who are leary of cutting their trucks or are under warranty, they run about 40.00. this cost me like 5-8.00 worth of material and i made 5 of them. they make spade connectors that have shrink wrap on them. they are a little more pricey but may give some peace of mind. thanks and i will try to answer any questions you make have, now for the pics

resistors
DSC_0009.jpg

finished product
DSC_0001-2.jpg

installed, note wires are too long i cut them shorter
DSC_0007.jpg

before(check the IAT)
DSC_0001-1.jpg

after(check the IAT)
DSC_0005-1.jpg
 

ramhunter9

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P-Star Jeep Wrangler
good job man . i will move this to the DIY section when we get it set up .
 

ramhunter9

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post them up if ya got them ...
 
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RubberFrog

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2019
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6.4
i've always wandered... is there any benefit to this if you have custom tuning?

It's a waste of time with custom tuning. If you need more fuel at WOT, your cmr tuner will add it for you. This helps deal with the lean WOT for headers, intake, etc on canned tune trucks.
 
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OklaHemi

OklaHemi

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new age hemi
sorry i missed this but is my hyperpac programmer
 
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OklaHemi

OklaHemi

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new age hemi
i just cut either one, ONE, one of the wires(i had someone cut both) far enough back to give yourself some working room and put a male and female spade connector on either end. you will have the same connections on the PW. then plug in the wire. if you ever want to take it off just unplug it and remove the PW and plug the iat back together. Advance auto, and im sure other have them as well, have the connectors with the heat shrink on them already. so once its made just break out the heat gun and make it water resistant



ill see about getting a pic today its raining here
 

ybnormal70

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2003
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Hemi 5.7
Just to make sure, this will work with a canned DSP tune correct? I just added headers and thought this might help.

Thanks,

Kevin
 

ramdrag

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Apr 22, 2012
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2004
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5.7 Hemi
Hi guys,
im new to the forums and i had a question on this mod.... i followed the directions and apon install my check engine light came on i reset the pcm but it still throwing a code any thoughts or solutions its a stock 5.7 hemi 04
 

Thomas

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fort worth
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2004
Engine
5.7
Hi guys,
im new to the forums and i had a question on this mod.... i followed the directions and apon install my check engine light came on i reset the pcm but it still throwing a code any thoughts or solutions its a stock 5.7 hemi 04

what code is it
 

KGBIGCOUNTRY

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5.7 / 5.7
Its a wire with a resistor to trick the computer to thinking its colder then it actually is. The computer will then add more fuel, adding some HP (claimed). That being said I have never ran one seeing how all my fuel adjustments are made through the tune. Some people claim to see a good bump in power, others say nothing.
 

cdrice15

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Hemi 5.7
Its a wire with a resistor to trick the computer to thinking its colder then it actually is. The computer will then add more fuel, adding some HP (claimed). That being said I have never ran one seeing how all my fuel adjustments are made through the tune. Some people claim to see a good bump in power, others say nothing.

Thanks

Sent from my Electrify
 

Bluto

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5.7 Hemi
Keep in mind that adding more fuel with this trick will do more harm than good if you aren't adding more air as well. Think about it for a minute. I have seen this mod on all types of car enthusiest forums and this is not a great way to get "performance".
 

Fireshaker

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Republic, Mo
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2008
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5.7L Hemi
Keep in mind that adding more fuel with this trick will do more harm than good if you aren't adding more air as well. Think about it for a minute. I have seen this mod on all types of car enthusiest forums and this is not a great way to get "performance".

In all honesty this mod will do nothing but harm your truck. Dumping more fuel will do nothing but reduce gas mileage, and load up the catalytic converter causing it to become clogged, over heat, fail emissions, and cause check engine lights.

Ever herd of the term "Lean is mean" that is very true. If an intake, or exhaust leans out the truck a little bit so be it, if it leans it out to much you need to invest in a good tune anyways. This "mod" should really be taken off the DIY section.
 

Redtruck-VA

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2003 & 1989 D250 RWD
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Hemi-5.7, 5.9 12v & 24v diesel
Here is a little of what I've learned about this mod. First, the IAT represents a resistance value (thermostat) in relation to temperature. Higher the temperature the lower the resistance value. By adding resistance causes the signal to represent a lower temperature than it is actually reading. I have used 5.3k resistor among others, which on my 03 represented -20 degrees from what the actual temperature was. I have moved the IAT location from the Hat to the inlet tube (K&N-77) and finally to the air box and now back to the inlet tube. I data logged the temperatures under the hood and what I found surprised me with how much it varied. My inlet tube and air box are insulated and I still got temperatures that ranged from outside ambient to 160 degree range with the hood closed. This pretty much tells me the little changes we make adjusting the IAT values really doesn't amount to a lot of overall tuning. With that said I used a 91 SC canned tune and 93 octane gas with an occasional knock under hard acceleration. Added water/**** and eliminated the knock, removed the PWR wire and the water/****, again it ran clean. The PWR wire influences timing while in closed loop and the modern hemi doesn't like a lot of timing. If you are tuning, then I don't recommend adding another variable to the soup. I am of the opinion now that the PCM should be reading the actual inlet temperature to properly adjust timing to prevent knock. Also keep in mind when the engine senses knock it ******* the timing and there is a substantial lag before that pulled timing is recovered and the engine is back making full power. Anyway, my 2 cents...
 

BgHrn

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Hemi 5.7
SO, in-short, whats your opinion Redtruck-VA?
 

Redtruck-VA

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SO, in-short, whats your opinion Redtruck-VA?

IMO only the best gas available should be used so with that said if the power wire induces any knock then adjust it back or remove it completely. If you have custom tuning then IMO remove the PWR wire to make life simpler and rely on the custom tune to get the job done.
 
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