14x3 Air Cleaner install

This thread is designed to 2nd gen owners a basic idea of how to install a 14x3 chrome air cleaner on thier Truck.
It isn't a written in stone approach but there shouldn't be a lot of variables.
One thing to consider is that if you decide to use a "flat" base rather than the recessed one I use, you'll be limited to a 2 inch tall filter element unless you have a body lift.

Anyway here are the basic components to my system.

1st is the recessed base with the breather adapter hose that connects to my pass side valve cover. Some owners prefer not to run plumbing and press a regular breather into the hole on the valvecover but I like my pcv system to function as designed by the OEM.



This is one of tricky parts. With a recessed base you'll need an air cleaner spacer to lift up the base enough to clear the T/B linkage and for my pcv plumbing to clear the IAT.
I'm not into plastic spacers, so I purchased this 1 inch aluminum one online. You need to make sure you use an air cleaner to TB gasket on each side of the spacer!



Obviously you must remove the original air cleaner to install the new one. I had to cut and slice in a couple of adapters to make my smog hose work.
There's also a small screw protruding out from underside the cowl. Cut it flush with the cowl to get your clearance for the back of the lid. You'll also have to tie the wire looms back a bit.

The next trick is to slide the base and filter together onto the TB, then slip the adapter in there. A little super glue or setup black rtv will hold the top adapter gasket in place. Snake the smog tube in behind the IAC and under the trans cable. It's tricky but not difficult.

Here's an installed shot.



Here's a better shot of the wire ties and breather tube. Dirty motor in need of cleaning...my bad!



You'll have to make a "S" bolt...about 3/4 inch center to center. Clean the threads with a chaser when done.



Here's the lid...slide it on top, fit it to the filter element and tighten it down with a nut or wing nut. Make sure the AC to TB gaskets didn't move.

One thing you can't see in this photo is the pitting in the cheap *** chinese chrome...this was caused by the cowl rubber seal falling off and rain water collecting on the filter top. Make sure to glue that seal on with some black RTV so you can remove it if you need to.



EDIT: PEOPLE HAVE BEEN ASKING FOR PICTURES, WHICH NO LONGER SHOW UP FOR SOME INSANE REASON. PICS CAN BE FOUND IN MY GALLERY UNDER 14X3 INSTALL. SORRY, IT'S A SITE ISSUE, NOT MY DOING!

did you pick up much power, i ask cause the air is hotter under the hood. i have a kinda half assed cool air intake now but i like this setup cause it looks cool.

ram15 said:

did you pick up much power, i ask cause the air is hotter under the hood. i have a kinda half assed cool air intake now but i like this setup cause it looks cool.

Click to expand...

I had a K&N FIPK before and cannot tell the difference power wise.

This has made my night! Where'd you order the spacer from?? Thanks again for the write up man

that looks great okie, sweet job

damn, thats some pretty good performance for the dollar considering how much those k&n kits cost

Hollabakzach23 said:

This has made my night! Where'd you order the spacer from?? Thanks again for the write up man

Click to expand...

I purchased the spacer on e-bay. Thanks for the kudos everyone, appreciate ya!

Yeah I searched there first this morning! Is it the sure seal o ring spacer?

I had a 10x2 on my '00 Ram. It worked flawlessly for years. Truck sounded meaner, hard telling if it really did anything power wise. I just liked having an easy to change filter. I hated the factory setup!

The O-ring spacer mignt seal better!

Here's what i have...

Air Cleaner Aluminum 1" Spacer Riser GM Chevy Ford Mopar 4 BRL 5 1/8" Neck | eBay

This is nice!

1" Aluminum Air Cleaner Spacer Riser Flat Drop Chevy Ford Mopar 5 1/8" Neck | eBay

Okay yeah those are what I was finding when searching as well but with the o rings already. Would that be the route to go then with the bottom one?

You can also buy the spacers at most Autoparts stores. Anything for a standard carb'd engine will work. They are all 5 1/8" dia.

Make sure you have those gaskets on both ends. Metal on Metal doesn't seal real well.

Hollabakzach23 said:

Okay yeah those are what I was finding when searching as well but with the o rings already. Would that be the route to go then with the bottom one?

Click to expand...

Yes..I don't trust plastic spacers around underhood heat and other things. I love polished aluminium...

I went ahead and finally did this yesterday! Even though I'm sure te same effect may have come from a cai as well, I believe there's a slight increase in throttle response and low end seems much better.

Nicely done sir!

No thank you for the excellent write up! Pretty self explanatory! Lol and I love the look! The only thing I did different was put the breather on the valve cover because I didn't want to drill the holes for the hose adapter (a little lazy yeah I know )

how difficult is it to get the breather hose out and put the new one in. is it a tight fit to where i need to pry it out with something.

ram15 said:

how difficult is it to get the breather hose out and put the new one in. is it a tight fit to where i need to pry it out with something.

Click to expand...

My setup...it pulls apart real easy. There's a short section on the elbow at the valve cover, and I have a brass fitting that slides into it. You don't want to use a barbed fitting because you won't be able to pull that out.

I hope that answered your question.

Okiespaniel said:

This thread is designed to 2nd gen owners a basic idea of how to install a 14x3 chrome air cleaner on thier Truck.
It isn't a written in stone approach but there shouldn't be a lot of variables.
One thing to consider is that if you decide to use a "flat" base rather than the recessed one I use, you'll be limited to a 2 inch tall filter element unless you have a body lift.

Anyway here are the basic components to my system.

1st is the recessed base with the breather adapter hose that connects to my pass side valve cover. Some owners prefer not to run plumbing and press a regular breather into the hole on the valvecover but I like my pcv system to function as designed by the OEM.

This is one of tricky parts. With a recessed base you'll need an air cleaner spacer to lift up the base enough to clear the T/B linkage and for my pcv plumbing to clear the IAT.
I'm not into plastic spacers, so I purchased this 1 inch aluminum one online. You need to make sure you use an air cleaner to TB gasket on each side of the spacer!

Obviously you must remove the original air cleaner to install the new one. I had to cut and slice in a couple of adapters to make my smog hose work.
There's also a small screw protruding out from underside the cowl. Cut it flush with the cowl to get your clearance for the back of the lid. You'll also have to tie the wire looms back a bit.

The next trick is to slide the base and filter together onto the TB, then slip the adapter in there. A little super glue or setup black rtv will hold the top adapter gasket in place. Snake the smog tube in behind the IAC and under the trans cable. It's tricky but not difficult.

Here's an installed shot.

Here's a better shot of the wire ties and beather tube. Dirty motor in need of cleaning...my bad!

You'll have to make a "S" bolt...about 3/4 inch center to center. Clean the threads with a chaser when done.

Here's the lid...slide it on top, fit it to the filter element and tighten it down with a nut or wing nut. Make sure the AC to TB gaskets didn't move.

One thing you can't see in this photo is the pitting in the cheap *** chinese chrome...this was caused by the cowl rubber seal falling off and rain water collecting on the filter top. Make sure to glue that seal on with some black RTV so you can remove it if you need to.

Click to expand...

Can these images be reposted?

I could but they'll probably disappear again. You could ask a mod...or go here.


http://www.ramforum.com/members/okiespaniel-albums-14x3_install_pics.html