4x4 hub assembly rebuilt

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rowdyram

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magnum 5.9
So if your like me, your lifted ram with oversized tires eats wheel bearing especially with off road abuse. And as we all know they are not cheap. So after replacing both hubs over the years 1 Napa 1 Mopar and having a Mopar fail a while back I decided there has got to be a solution. So I decided to tear it down and find a solution, and I did. It has been working great and still tight after 17xxx miles and heavy off road use. So got my hands on a loose used bearing to fix up for a spare.

First step is to remove the seal on the back side.
Timken p/n jrm58000-sa
Then you will need to press the bearing apart. Last time I used a shop press but this time I used a clam shell style bearing splitter the can be purchased at most part stores or harbor freight.

Once pressed apart, clean up and inspect the bearing and races. In my case they are all good. If they are pitted tapered rusty or have flat spots replace them.
Bearing timken p/n 58005
Race p/n timken 58049es

Removing the bearings from the plastic cage is fairly simple. Getting them back in takes patience and may require 3 hands. Be careful to not break the plastic cage. If you do so super glue will hold it. (Only there to hold rollers for assembly)

So now you got your clean/new bearings and races. The next step only applies if you are re-using the old bearings. The rear race has a pre-load spacer and most be ground down to account for the worn bearings. Before you cry foul worn bearings are the reason standard taper bearings in the 2wd and older 4x4 became loose and we just clean and repack those. We are doing the same thing. So after grinding the end of the race down clean off metal debris pack bearings and assemble. Grinding enough off may make more than one test fit. May be dealer.o wait on the grease until a good fit is achieved. After pressing the bearing together( I was able to tap it together with a hammer) you'll need to install the outer seal using a flat head screw driver work between the seal and hub flange all the way around until fully seated. Then install your new inner seal.
Install in vehicle and torque all bolts to spec.


Note: my truck is a 2500, 1500s and light duty 2500 will be the same procedure but part numbers are likely different.

I searched all over the internet for these parts but could not find them. Ended up buying from a local industrial supply store that is a timken dealer.
 

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Merc225hp

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Needs more photo's showing what is going on with a description. Post up the 1500 part numbers as well as they fail more than the 2500 do.
 
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rowdyram

rowdyram

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I'll see if I can dig up some # for 1500 but the numbers are stamped on the parts.
 
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rowdyram

rowdyram

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The race protruding from the top bearing here is the portion to be ground down
 

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rowdyram

rowdyram

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Ram Year
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magnum 5.9
This is how I set up the clam shell. Using a spreader bar and puller bolt across the top pressing the hub flange from the inner bearing race
 

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