diy O2 replacement upstrem

Hey everyone, first time here so bear with me, I've been looking everywhere for an answer can't seem to find the slightest help, I'm attempting to replace a bad O2 sensor. Received a CEL with a code of p0135, which after research pertains to bank 1 sensor 1 (I live in California so I have 4 sensors), the one I need to replace is the driver side upstream sensor. Now my problem is I have no idea how to access the sensor! It is in such a hard to reach spot removing the sensor is going to be a struggle but the worst part is disconnecting the socket. It's so hard to reach and I am unsure how the get to it. My guess is removing the manifold to get to it from the top instead of under the car. Anybody ever run into this problem? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

By the way it is for a 2000 ram 1500 v8 magnum 5.9L. There is difference between the 5.2 and 5.9 and every forum I find pertains to the 5.2 which only has 3 sensors, I believe.

Truck if you don't mind.
You can't get a wrench on it? Tip: soak it a few times with a good penetrating fluid. Not WD40. Get good stuff. I use http://www.lpslabs.com/product-details/567 and I love it.
If your going to remove the manifold you may just be better off to remove the Y pipe and work on it on a bench.

My buddy had a ford with a similar setup. Had to get an o2 sensor wrench, an extension like this http://www.musclecardiy.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/05/2519.jpg, a swivel adapter, and 12in standard extension to get it off.

Electrical connector is probably going to take uncomfortable reaching. Manifold removal will make it much more difficult with the possibilities of studs/bolts breaking off in the head or flush with the head and the y pipe will more than likely expand outboard more when removed thx to years of heat cycles. You're better off trying to reach it. Get it disconnected, pb blaster, and run the truck for about 5 minutes. After that time, freeze-off spray on the sensor where the socket grabs. This technique has worked amazingly for me on many things. After freeze off more pb blaster and some muscle on that socket

Thanks everyone I'll give it a try using a few extensions if all else fails I'll just have to remove a few extra pieces.

dapepper9 said:

Electrical connector is probably going to take uncomfortable reaching. Manifold removal will make it much more difficult with the possibilities of studs/bolts breaking off in the head or flush with the head and the y pipe will more than likely expand outboard more when removed thx to years of heat cycles. You're better off trying to reach it. Get it disconnected, pb blaster, and run the truck for about 5 minutes. After that time, freeze-off spray on the sensor where the socket grabs. This technique has worked amazingly for me on many things. After freeze off more pb blaster and some muscle on that socket

Click to expand...

I just helped a buddy today pull some exhaust manifold bolts on his 91 Silverado with the 4.3L. Hit them with a torch then cooled them down with a spray of PBblast until the smoke died way down, the repeat the process twice more per bolt. Then Took a 1/2 drive wrench and just budged the thing a hair, then rocked it back and forth as it loosened up we hit it with just a burst of PB. We didn't break a single bolt and the threads were still so nice, he decided to use them again until he gets the money to buy some new parts.

Never underestimate the power of heating then cooling. You can use that freeze stuff, but I never bother. Back when I worked on semis we would just heat it with a torch and cool it real fast with some tap water.