65rfe 4th gen 6 speed auto xsmn .

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R.L.K.

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Hello ALL .

I'd like to start a thread discussion about the 6 speed XSMN 65RFE to help all of us out in understanding as much as possible about this xsmn and different maintenance practices like fluid & filter changes and other info like normal operating temp ranges , gearing , shifting points , common NON-preventative maintenance , similarities to the 45 RFE , 66RFE & 65RFE XSMN's and such.



My truck 2014 Ram 1500 QC 4X4 5.7L Hemi, 65RFE 6 speed automatic xsmn with the -45 Xsfer case , 3.55 Differentials , Razorback Red with the 6'4" bed , leveled with Bilstien @ + 2.8" with 1.5" TGC rear coil sping spacers , OCC and stock tires & chrome clad wheels . Wow that's a mouthful!


I'm at about 44k and I'm interested in a XSMN fluid & filter change , and possibly a DIY complete system Flush .

Also interested in a xsmn pan change with extra fluid capacity , cooling fins and a magnetic drain plug.

I'm gonna save a few spots below for my fluid & filter change and other maint related stuff I plan to do in the future on my 65RFE automatic xsmn.

Thanks in advance for your replies !
 
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I just purchased (12-28-2016 ) a MAG-HYTEC 45RFE XSMN Pan today .

This pan has many featurs that the OEM pan does not.

1) First and for most it has a Drain Plug !
I Do Not understand why a drain plug is not standard ?
This drain plug has a very strong Magnet on it , so when you drain the fluid you can clean the captured ferrous debris , what a great idea !


2) This pan has a +1.5 to +2 Qt. Capacity of fluid over the OEM pan , this extra capacity aids in the cooling of the xsmn , this is great for people who tow , especially in the summer .


3) Speaking of cooling the xsmn, this pan also has a large amount of Cooling Fins , now that's just a good idea !


4) The wall thickness and the Mounting Flanges are much thicker than the OEM pan , this is great for you 4 wheeling enthusiasts & Rock climbers , also Aids in disipating HEAT as well !


5) Lastly this pan just looks cool pun intended! Get it ? Looks cool and it has many fluid cooling characteristics anyway here's a picture .


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Notice the giant step in the pan , this is to clear your stock exhaust system . If you have a non oem exhaust that doesn't interfere with this area then for a +2 more qt fluid capacity you can install the 68RFE DEEP Pan that looks like this .

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Well I was gonna wait Untill 50,000 miles to do this , im at about 47k now , I had some RARE time to perform vehicle maintenance so I installed my Mag-Hytec pan and both filters ( spin on & sump) & sump filter seal today .
Nothing special about how I did this as others here have done the same , this is just how I did it .
2 out of 10 on difficulty imo.

Hope this helps someone out !

Mag-Hytec
P/N 45RFE
S/N 913

This pan is for the 65RFE 6 speed xsmn with stock exhaust.

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First I vacume pumped out all the fluid with a Matco break bleeder to prevent a giant mess while dropping the pan

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Had to stop & dump 3 times ( took 10 mins max) very much worth it imo .
I got out about 6.5 qts ! A bit more than I expected .

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Next I removed the OEM pan .
Pretty straight forward here . Remove the bolts (5/16" / 8mm )
☆☆ leave in 3 to 4 mostly loose so the pan doesn't fall ☆☆
then utilize a HARD plastic wedge/ scraper and small hammer to get a corner started .

This pic is complements of U&A

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I used a much smaller plastic scraper.

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Now just Remove the remaining bolts and navigate the pan down avoiding the exhaust pipe .

My OEM pan had a rubber gasket and it had been installed with a sealant as well .

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My OEM PAN magnet had very little ferous debris on it for 47,000 miles IMO & with a decent amount of towing and a few tows that I wish I had never done


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Next I removed the spin on filter . I used a filter wrench from my motorcycle. It's made by Ampro , #s on it are 65/67 with a 14 beneath.

☆☆☆Caution ☆☆☆
Before breaking the tq on the spin on filter MAKE SURE you have a small container beneath the sump inlet tube ! ! Removal of the spin on filter opens a vent for trapped fluid and it gushes out of the sump filter in a hurry approx 3/4 qt !


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Then I installed the new spin on filter. P/N see pic below ☆☆☆☆ as Hemi395 said ☆☆☆☆☆in his xsmn filter replacement " the spin on filter has plastic threads and is VERY VERY easy to crossthread ! " I recommend practicing with the old filter to get a good feel for it !

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Next I removed the sump filter , one screw only holds it up in place ( T-25 bit )

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Once the sump filter is removed , then remove the sump filter seal .
I used a 90° scribe, be careful to only get the seal & not score the seals mounting surface .

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I then intalled the new seal ( which comes with the filter ) first by hand just enough for it to stay in place , then light taps with a small hammer and a 3/4 socket & extention.

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Next I installed my new sump filter
P/N see pic below

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During this entire process I was constantly wiping down fluid to keep the mess of drips to a minimum.

At this point I have the OEM pan removed , both filters replaced and new sump filter seal installed .

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The drippage you see in my drip pan in the above photo is all the mess that is made if you vacume out the pan through the dip stick tube ....not bad at all imo !
 
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Now for the Mag-Hytec pan install .

A couple notes here :

1) ensure to perform a dry run (practice ) so to speak on the pan install , this will let you know what to expect for the real install .

2) the pan is a bit heavier than I thought , remember your holding it with one hand and with the other getting harware in place and such .

3) in my case I found there to be a significant amount of tare torque on the provided new zinc hardware ( aprox 35 inch pounds ) Prior to the hardware being seated with the new pan during my (dry / practice install with no sealant or gasket )
this tare tq Must be applied to the recommended tq value of 105" lbs . My final tq ended up being 140" lbs .



First I cleaned the mounting surface of the xsmn with 99% isopropyl alcohol (acetone would work fine )

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Then I cleaned the new pans mounting surface .
I used the Mag-Hytec provided FIBER gasket ( as Hemi395 did with no leaks !)

I put a SMALL amount of Mopar sealant on the pan .

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Then I put the gasket on the pan utilizing the Mag-Hytec hardware to aid in alignment .

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I pressed firm and evanly on the gasket and wiped away excess sealant .

☆☆☆☆☆Work quickly as this mopar sealant cures quickly ! ☆☆☆☆☆

Now under the truck I cleaned the xsmns mounting surface again with the 99% isopropyl.

Then as in my dry / practice fit I put the pan in place and started 4 ea new 5mm Allen head bolts not all the way , just enough to hold the pan in place while you start the other 346 bolts

I highly recommend a 5mm "T" handle Allen wrench for this ! If you have MAN HANDS like me ....

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Now just evenly snug down a couple times around with the HIGHLY RECOMMEND T handle .

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The Recommended tq per Mag-Hytec is 105" lbs + tare (for my xsmn) 35 " lbs . Final tq for my situation is 140" lbs .

I do this similar type of work daily , here's the method I used .
First I tqed everything to 60"lbs in a cross sided motion to aid in an even tq and seating of the pan , I continued to use 60" lbs Untill the tq has stabilized.


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I then increased the tq in 20" lb increments using the same method above Untill ALL tqs have stabilized at 140" lbs , then go all the way around hitting each bolt to verify that one wast missed ....this takes a while , I went around probably 10 times . Time consuming but seated very well.

I highly recommend using a tq wrench for this , the sealant squeez out and compression of the fiber gasket is plenty enough to cause a loss of tq.

Next I let the sealant cure overnight ( not necessary ) but I had the time , besides I had steaks to grill , beer to drink and a pretty little women to tend to

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Next morning I tq checked all the bolts @ 140" lbs = zero movement .

I plan on tq checking again after a drive up to operating temp . Make sure it has cooled to the touch ! Do not tq while still hot !.

Will continue below in the next saved spot .
 
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Well as I stated above I removed about 6.5 qts via the Vacume pump

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and I lost another approx qt while changing the filters

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And I installed an extra capacity Mag-Hytec pan ( +1.5qts - 2qts ) per Mag-Hytec instructions.

So this means I should require 9 to 9.5 qts to replenish what I have previously removed ....
☆☆☆☆☆☆☆NOTE ☆☆☆☆☆☆☆
I should mention each time I've checked my xsmn fluid in the past ( Hot in Nutral ) the fluid level was always about 1/2 " above the top of the "HOT" dot ....this was my factory fill that I've never added to .

This is what I did for servicing my 65RFE 4x4 xsmn :

I poured in 2ea Gals / 8 qts of Redline C+ATF Fluid this should put me a bit low approx 1qt to 1.5 qts low . But close enough for a test drive to get temps up .

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On the dip stick ( cold ) it was well above the top HOT dot .

I started the truck , set the E brake chalked the tires both directions shifted to R , D , N , back to park then in Nutral to run the xsmn pump . Checked for leaks , checked the fluid ( tried to take a picture just doesn't show up well ) anyway it was between the cold & Hot area .
Went for a short test drive just 10 miles or so , but plenty to get the fluids moved throughout the xsmn .

Back at my shop again E brake on & wheels chalked in Nutral check fluid and it's just below the lower Hot dot . I added a 1/2 Qt and went on a real test drive up in the mountains about 35 miles round trip with some pretty good uphill climbs getting the xsmn temp to 142° which is good & warm for the 6 speed xsmn not towing anything .

Back at the shop checked the fluid again HOT in Nutral it's about 1/8" below the lower Hot dot , I added another 1/2 Qt and I'm right between the two HOT dots perfect imo .

So I've added a total of 9ea qts of Redline C+ ATF Fluid on my 4X4 65RFE Xsmn while adding the MAG-HYTEC extra capacity pan P/N 45RFE For trucks with stock exhaust.


☆☆☆☆☆☆EDIT ☆☆☆☆☆☆☆

I HIGHLY RECOMMEND TQ CHECKING once COOL like the next morning after a good test drive .

Each one of my 5mm Allen head zinc coated bolts moved significantly ( AS EXPECTED ) I'd say 1 to 1&1/2 Flats of the Allen hex .


☆☆☆☆☆☆EDIT EDIT ☆☆☆☆☆☆☆

NOW it's been about 1,000 miles since my pan drop & filter change ...I'll be draining my pan & refilling with more fresh REDLINE C+ATF ..... Here's some pics of my fluid drain & replenishment of Redline c+ fluid .

Almost 8 qts drained , remember this is a mix of the Factory Fill & 9 qts of Redline C+.

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Service up with just under 8qts of fresh Redline C+ ATF , Test drove to get temps up , checked the level , E brake on , wheels chalked in Nutral level was pretty good , I added a bit more .

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Next time I change my engine oil I'll be repeating this process once more (about 6k from now ) then I'll likely do a drain & refill at 75k then repeat the process again with a pan drop & filter change @ 100k or maybe 125 k ...

Hope this helps someone here in the future .

GO HOGS !
 
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Hemi395

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I recently changed the fluid and filters in my 6 speed. If you've done any other transmission fluid changes on older GM or Ford transmissions it's very similar. Only difference is there's two filters, one is a typical screen type filter and the other is a spin on oil filter type filter. Originally I was using the Dorman replacement pan for the 66&68rfe trans but have found some info on it that it may be pushing slightly sideways on the pump filter so this weekend I will be adding a B&M drain plug to the OEM pan and reinstalling that. I'll take pics of the process and post.

Originally I was going to refill the fluid with Redline C+ but after reading up on ATF+4, it seems these transmissions are very sensitive to the type of fluid used so I would highly recommend using one of the certified/licenced ATF+4 listed here http://www.centerforqa.com/chrysler-brands/

I used Castrol TransMax as it was available locally and has good reviews.
 
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Im assuming im allowed to play in this thread, owning a 66rfe. same thing, but different:)


I will be using the castrol atf+4 as well. still up for debate on the pan I will be using.
 
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Im assuming im allowed to play in this thread, owning a 66rfe. same thing, but different:)


I will be using the castrol atf+4 as well. still up for debate on the pan I will be using.
You are welcome here as well my friend LOL ! similar xsmn just the 2500 right ?
 

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My 12 quarts of Redline C+ finally arrived today.

Got to love Military discount at the auto parts store. List was 29.99 CDN a Quart. and I got them for 17.35 CDN.

That's a **** ton of money saved. I'll be posting pics this weekend of my Mag-Hytec pan install. Along with the condition of the factory filters.

I followed the link posted of "approved" oils. Funny how they left out all high performance oil makers. LoL. But posted the cheap bargain oil makers.
 

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My 12 quarts of Redline C+ finally arrived today.

Got to love Military discount at the auto parts store. List was 29.99 CDN a Quart. and I got them for 17.35 CDN.

That's a **** ton of money saved. I'll be posting pics this weekend of my Mag-Hytec pan install. Along with the condition of the factory filters.

I followed the link posted of "approved" oils. Funny how they left out all high performance oil makers. LoL. But posted the cheap bargain oil makers.

I dont think they were "left out". the oil manufacturer (regardless of who) is responsible for have their oil tested to meet a spec if they want. they could contact Chrysler to have there oil tested of they want to. they just chose not to.

they may not want to pay for they testing and constant re-certifications to stay in spec. or they just are not interested in that "market" category for oil.

the "cheap bargain oil" brands you mentioned have always targeted the OEM certifications as that is were the money is. their oils are not "cheap" like most think. they are very good. they just dont market to the high power/ aftermarket performance and power sports category as heavily, like amsoil and redline do.
 
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My 12 quarts of Redline C+ finally arrived today.

Got to love Military discount at the auto parts store. List was 29.99 CDN a Quart. and I got them for 17.35 CDN.

That's a **** ton of money saved. I'll be posting pics this weekend of my Mag-Hytec pan install. Along with the condition of the factory filters.

I followed the link posted of "approved" oils. Funny how they left out all high performance oil makers. LoL. But posted the cheap bargain oil makers.
Please do post pictures and OIL TYPE / GRADE AND P/N AND THE MILES ON YOUR RAM !
Awesome ! Please post many pics and as much information as possible SIR ...

I am interested in the high performance xsmn fluids , even if they chose to not spend the $ $ $ to get the manufacturers certification doughnut symble on the label ...
 
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As far as I understand it, the 65/66/68RFE are essentially the same transmission. Gear ratios are different in the 66/68RFE and they have more robust clutches, bands, and other internals to handle the torque of the 6.4Hemi and Cummins. This thread is good info for anyone with a RFE trans.

@DILLIGAF, I'm extremely interested in your swap to RL C+
 

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As far as I understand it, the 65/66/68RFE are essentially the same transmission. Gear ratios are different in the 66/68RFE and they have more robust clutches, bands, and other internals to handle the torque of the 6.4Hemi and Cummins. This thread is good info for anyone with a RFE trans.

@DILLIGAF, I'm extremely interested in your swap to RL C+

Lol. I was just about to post that later tonight.

Thank for the post
 

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.............. I was using the Dorman replacement pan for the 66&68rfe trans but have found some info on it that it may be pushing slightly sideways on the pump filter .............

Got any more info or a link on that Dorman pan pushing on the filter?
 
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I'm glad you guys like this thread !
This is exactly what I was after ...
 
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Got any more info or a link on that Dorman pan pushing on the filter?

I found several reviews stating this is the case. When I put the pan on I had some trouble getting the bolts holes to line up after I got the first bolt in. I had to push the pan slightly towards the drivers side to get them to line up so I could get a second bolt started. After that the all went fine. I figured it was just hitting up against the dipstick because I had forgot to take it out before installing the pan. Just makes me nervous as the main screen filter only has a plastic neck that goes up into the pump.

I'll know more on Saturday when I swap back to the oem pan...

@R.L.K. torque specs for the pan bolts and main filter torx bolt are 105 In/lbs
 
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I'm using this as my guide Saterday http://mdm.me/wp-content/uploads/2014/08/2006-Ram-Service-Manual-extract.pdf

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