Thoughts 2nd gen "Dodge ram 3500"

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dudeman2009

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Mostly plug and play. You'll need the "canned tuning with device" option as you dont have the SCT 3200 X3 programmer already. When you order Ryan will email you the tune and ship you the new device.

I believe that's another $499 + $199 for just the tune.........things do add up quickly~!
Just wondering, is there any way around implementing the "tune with device" cost?......or is there no other way?

No, you must have a tool to interface with the truck. They were getting hard to come by last I knew.
 

jlbayes

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Are you saying, in "addition" to all the advice I've gotten so far on a tune for my 5.9L gas engine, I must also do a remap to the gov pressure solenoid maps?

No......
 

dapepper9

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Mostly plug and play. You'll need the "canned tuning with device" option as you dont have the SCT 3200 X3 programmer already. When you order Ryan will email you the tune and ship you the new device.

I believe that's another $499 + $199 for just the tune.........things do add up quickly~!
Just wondering, is there any way around implementing the "tune with device" cost?......or is there no other way?

No no, there's a combined option. Here's the screenshot. It's both the tune and the device. You just need that and nothing else
Screenshot_20171204-232001.jpg
Then just answer the rest of the pertinent questions
 
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scippy

scippy

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2001 3500 dually
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24v cummins
So I took a long time to think about & weigh in on my options between upgrading my 5.9L Magnum engine -or- buy a 2nd gen 3500 diesel Dually. I asked a lot of questions and learned a lot from the likes of dudeman2009 - dapepper9 - Jibayes - appreciate it guys! ...but I decided to buy a used 3500 diesel.
I have 2 in mind and I'd like to share them with you. First off my preference is automatic & 4wd...I value your honest opinion so do let me know.
The first truck is a 2000 year model laramie 140K miles auto 4wd & dually...both passenger & driver doors are shot (rust) the left front fender is shot (rust) chrome bumper has hole (rust) left rear quad cab door showing rust but not shot...now considering if everything else (suspension, drive tran, motor, brakes, steering, ac, interior etc; etc;) is in good working order would $9,000 be a fair price?..owner assures me he has the 2 donor doors, L/F donor fender and he priced it to be all fixed painted for $800 to make the truck (his words) Flawless!!

The second truck is a 2001 year model 192K miles (not auto) manual shift & no 4wd & Dually.....it's a southern truck no rust anywhere!...look's amazing!
the price is $13,500....after some neg. I got him down to $13,000

Is the first one worth it?...............is the second one too high?....I can post the actual craigslist ad............thoughts??
 

jlbayes

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13k for a 2wd truck is far out of sight. Even if it is rust free. I cannot get the links to work either.

If they have OEM panels for the 4wd and you are not afraid of body work that is the option I would explore.
 

dudeman2009

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Jibayes is right, the price on that second truck might be closer if it was 4x4, but I would have a hard time separating with 10k for the 2wd.

The doors are relatively easy to remove, so is the fender (gotta drill a couple spot welds I think). The biggest pain is going to be getting them painted if they aren't already. Just make sure you inspect the rocker panels well, if the doors are rotted out, its likely the rockers are rusted as well. That would be more of a pain than the doors or fender.

Given all thats included, the first one is pretty fair at 9k. I'd be talking him down another grand if the rockers were starting to rust through though.
 

jlbayes

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Jibayes is right, the price on that second truck might be closer if it was 4x4, but I would have a hard time separating with 10k for the 2wd.

The doors are relatively easy to remove, so is the fender (gotta drill a couple spot welds I think). The biggest pain is going to be getting them painted if they aren't already. Just make sure you inspect the rocker panels well, if the doors are rotted out, its likely the rockers are rusted as well. That would be more of a pain than the doors or fender.

Given all thats included, the first one is pretty fair at 9k. I'd be talking him down another grand if the rockers were starting to rust through though.

Spot welds only for the inner fenders. The inner/outer can be removed as one. But the inner is welded to the outer. PITA
 
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scippy

scippy

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dudeman & Jlbayes........If I pursue the truck for 9K...and take on the task of replace, repair & paint (driver & pass. doors, L/f fender & also found out 1' of driver side rocker needs replace) I'm thinking, best conservative price would at least add 2K to price???....more????
 

dudeman2009

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dudeman & Jlbayes........If I pursue the truck for 9K...and take on the task of replace, repair & paint (driver & pass. doors, L/f fender & also found out 1' of driver side rocker needs replace) I'm thinking, best conservative price would at least add 2K to price???....more????

Do you mean what it'd be worth after you're done? yeah to the right person 2k isn't that bad a guess. Some guys hate body work and many shops will charge much more than that for the work needed.
 
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scippy

scippy

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Do you mean what it'd be worth after you're done? yeah to the right person 2k isn't that bad a guess. Some guys hate body work and many shops will charge much more than that for the work needed.

No, I mean if I bought the truck for $9k and had to spend an additional $2k on body work then essentially the truck cost me $11k......where as maybe I can find a truck for same price or less without the body work scenario. but I do like the truck, it's a Laramie, 4wd and auto. all the things I want. The other truck that's $13k is (as you guys say) way over priced. The only positive is rust free and that's it. 2wd shouldn't demand that kind of price.
By the way, Yesterday I sold my 2002 dodge ram 2500 it had 86k miles on the odometer.....put it on craigslist Wed. and by Friday had it sold for my asking price of $5,100...will miss it!
 

dudeman2009

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No, I mean if I bought the truck for $9k and had to spend an additional $2k on body work then essentially the truck cost me $11k......where as maybe I can find a truck for same price or less without the body work scenario. but I do like the truck, it's a Laramie, 4wd and auto. all the things I want. The other truck that's $13k is (as you guys say) way over priced. The only positive is rust free and that's it. 2wd shouldn't demand that kind of price.
By the way, Yesterday I sold my 2002 dodge ram 2500 it had 86k miles on the odometer.....put it on craigslist Wed. and by Friday had it sold for my asking price of $5,100...will miss it!

Thats not a bad price at all. They are great trucks, it bummed me out to no end the week and a half I was out my truck while I was finding a decently priced engine.
 
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scippy

scippy

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Have a chance on a '97 3500 dually 12 valve with 211,000 miles 5 speed manual..........also, a '01 2500 24 valve with 234,000 miles. autotrans.
considering both engines were well maintained, what would be the best choice of engine for (1) longevity and (2) a base platform for performance
upgrades?
 

jlbayes

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I much prefer the way a 24v drives over a 12v. I have had both and currently drive a 12v. I am not 5 speed fan either. They are severely overrated in all things diesel. Both trucks respond well to modifications but the 24v will be nicer to drive. Has better brakes. They are extremely sensitive to grounds and battery issues. A 12v is dumb and will run just about forever.
 
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scippy

scippy

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Nicer to drive meaning?.....the feel under your pants , road handling etc; etc; explain please?.........Also, why do you think the manual is overrated?
Would an auto-trans be just as equal?..............heard good thing about the 48 RE trans, but were they optional?....how capable is the 47?....sorry
for all the questions, but I'll never know if I don't ask....thnx, Scippy
 
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