Exterior detail DIY

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CruisinCO

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Over the holiday weekend I finally got some time to do a full exterior paint detail and thought I'd put it in a write up since it turned out so well. I am by no means a professional, but like many of you I like to do all the work on my own vehicles, and take pride in the work I do. This method produced very good results for me and can do the same for you. Feel free to include any tips I missed or chime in with some expert advice where needed.



Materials: Dual action polisher (not required but trust me it will save you a ton of time and shoulder pain and produces much better results than working by hand), two 5 gallon buckets for washing/rinsing. Car wash, a quality polish of your choosing, Clay bar kit (bars and detail spray), wax, lots of microfiber towels (clean ones!), and a wash mitt. Oh yeah don't forget at least a 12 pack of cold beer cause this should take you a while. Took me about 6 hours total, but time will vary depending on how meticulous and experienced you are.



Step One: Wash the vehicle thoroughly. For my products here I used Mothers gold class car wash, and microfiber towels/ wash mitt from autozone. I went to the local car wash first and did a self-wash (sprayer only) to get the top layer of dirt/grime. Then drove home and re-washed by hand a section at a time as I worked. Washing and getting the vehicle as clean as possible is going to get you the professional looking results you want, failing to remove dirt and grime before the polishing step will make your swirl marks/scratches worse, so take your time here. I used the two bucket method. Dunk the mitt in the clean water bucket and get the vehicle surface wet, re-dunk it in the clean water and scrub with your free hand to release any dirt, dunk into your soapy bucket, scrub the vehicle, then re–cleanse in the water only bucket and rinse the surface of the vehicle again. I threw out and re-filled my “water-only” bucket whenever the water became dingy (probably ten times throughout the whole process) any small step to produce the cleanest process possible is worth a little extra time in my book. Crack a cold one.

IMG_20170703_101051.jpg

Step Two: Detail spray and clay bar kit. Again I worked one section at a time in order to keep my working surface as clean as possible. Here I used a mothers clay bar kit and instant detailing spray. I took my wash mitt and re-rinsed the surface to get it nice and wet, then grabbed the detail spray and clay bar. NOTE: the Mothers clay bar kit includes two full bars and I only used about a quarter of one bar for the entire vehicle so it won’t take too much clay. Spray the surface of the vehicle liberally with the detailer and work a flattened out piece of the clay bar over the surface. I used little pressure at first, and then pressed harder on my second and third time over as you can really see and feel the deep grime and particles coming off with the clay bar. My advice here would be to keep the surface as wet as possible to help the clay glide over the surface and keep it from creating more scratches. This step made a huge difference in getting all the grime that is missed on a routine wash, if you choose to skip any of these steps don’t skip this one! Work slowly and make sure you get all the particles free from the paint. When you are done with this step run your hand over the paint surface to make sure there are no remaining bits of dirt/grime. Crack beer number two.

IMG_20170703_133007.jpg

Step Three: Polish. Here I used Meguiars Swirl X (their ultimate compound works great too). Because I had a good amount of swirl marks from a previous owner who did not know how to properly wash my baby, swirl x got the call, otherwise I use the ultimate compound. This is where the da polisher comes in and saves the day. I worked about a two foot section at a time. I also used a light cutting foam pad as I had mostly swirl marks and not too many deep scratches to get out, RPM’s may vary depending on your brand of polisher, but 4000 rpm worked well for me on this step.. Apply some polish to the pad ( just dot the surface of the pad to get some on there). Press the pad to the vehicle surface before turning on the polisher or you’ll have a mess on your hands. I went slow and covered the working area twice before wiping the polish away. Don’t let the polish get dry during this step, re-applicate polish to the pad as needed. My pickup used one full bottle of polish. I like to use a DA polisher here because it won’t burn through your clear coat, it will simply stop rotating if you apply too much pressure. Make sure to press firmly enough to get the polish worked in though or your just wasting your time. YouTube has some great resources if you need to brush up on your technique. I wiped away the polish with the wet wash mitt in order to keep from dry rubbing it off but use your own judgement here. Once the polish was rinsed off I wiped the surface with a dry, CLEAN microfiber towel and inspected to make sure it looked good before continuing on. Repeat this entire step as needed until you get the deep wet finish you are looking for. Crack another beer ( I was about 5 deep at this point).

IMG_20170703_133013.jpg


Step Four: WAX. I waited until I had the entire pickup polished before waxing. I rinsed the entire vehicle off again with my wash mitt to make sure any dust that accumulated after polishing was gone and used a finishing pad for the application. RPM setting at 2500 for this step. I also worked in about two foot sections as I was working outside and did not want the wax drying on the surface of the vehicle. This step took maybe 45 minutes total. If you don’t have any paint defects you can skip the polish step and go straight to this one after clay bar. I just worked the wax in good with the polisher and wiped it off with a CLEAN micro towel. One for removal, one for the final wipe away. I cannot express enough the importance of using clean towels as you work, do NOT hesitate to throw one aside once it gets dingy with wax or starts to show dirt. I probably used a total of ten micro towels and will use even more next time. Trust me you do not want to screw up your hours of work and dollars of investment at this point over something as stupid as a dirty towel re-swirling your paint as you wipe away wax.



That about summed it up for me. Again I am by no means a professional but as you can see the results speak for themselves. Just take your time and be thorough in each step and it will go just fine. I really like both Meguiars and Mothers products for cleaning and detailing but everyone has their favorites and I’m sure you can get good results with other brands as well. My polisher is a $85 cheapy TCP Global but it worked great, I highly recommend the wash mitt vs. a brush as that may cause more swirls and scratches and is harder to rinse throughout the whole process. A lot of people will tell you not to work outside but it worked fine for me, I just pulled the ol girl onto the grass and made sure I wasn’t the downwind recipient of any dust waves coming from the guys hauling grain from our bins. I laid towels over any paint surfaces that were in the sun to keep the paint cool. Using cool water for washing should get your paint as cool as it needs to be, I had to rinse a few spots a couple times to cool them off before starting the clay bar and polish steps but use good judgement on that. Make sure you don’t work on a hot paint surface or it can damage the clear coat. Other than that get you some cold ones, get out there and get to work! Hope you have as much fun as I did and get the results you want!

IMG_20170703_150229.jpg
IMG_20170703_145750.jpg

-CruisinCO
 

Curlyp

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Over the holiday weekend I finally got some time to do a full exterior paint detail and thought I'd put it in a write up since it turned out so well. I am by no means a professional, but like many of you I like to do all the work on my own vehicles, and take pride in the work I do. This method produced very good results for me and can do the same for you. Feel free to include any tips I missed or chime in with some expert advice where needed.







Materials: Dual action polisher (not required but trust me it will save you a ton of time and shoulder pain and produces much better results than working by hand), two 5 gallon buckets for washing/rinsing. Car wash, a quality polish of your choosing, Clay bar kit (bars and detail spray), wax, lots of microfiber towels (clean ones!), and a wash mitt. Oh yeah don't forget at least a 12 pack of cold beer cause this should take you a while. Took me about 6 hours total, but time will vary depending on how meticulous and experienced you are.







Step One: Wash the vehicle thoroughly. For my products here I used Mothers gold class car wash, and microfiber towels/ wash mitt from autozone. I went to the local car wash first and did a self-wash (sprayer only) to get the top layer of dirt/grime. Then drove home and re-washed by hand a section at a time as I worked. Washing and getting the vehicle as clean as possible is going to get you the professional looking results you want, failing to remove dirt and grime before the polishing step will make your swirl marks/scratches worse, so take your time here. I used the two bucket method. Dunk the mitt in the clean water bucket and get the vehicle surface wet, re-dunk it in the clean water and scrub with your free hand to release any dirt, dunk into your soapy bucket, scrub the vehicle, then re–cleanse in the water only bucket and rinse the surface of the vehicle again. I threw out and re-filled my “water-only” bucket whenever the water became dingy (probably ten times throughout the whole process) any small step to produce the cleanest process possible is worth a little extra time in my book. Crack a cold one.



View attachment 89669



Step Two: Detail spray and clay bar kit. Again I worked one section at a time in order to keep my working surface as clean as possible. Here I used a mothers clay bar kit and instant detailing spray. I took my wash mitt and re-rinsed the surface to get it nice and wet, then grabbed the detail spray and clay bar. NOTE: the Mothers clay bar kit includes two full bars and I only used about a quarter of one bar for the entire vehicle so it won’t take too much clay. Spray the surface of the vehicle liberally with the detailer and work a flattened out piece of the clay bar over the surface. I used little pressure at first, and then pressed harder on my second and third time over as you can really see and feel the deep grime and particles coming off with the clay bar. My advice here would be to keep the surface as wet as possible to help the clay glide over the surface and keep it from creating more scratches. This step made a huge difference in getting all the grime that is missed on a routine wash, if you choose to skip any of these steps don’t skip this one! Work slowly and make sure you get all the particles free from the paint. When you are done with this step run your hand over the paint surface to make sure there are no remaining bits of dirt/grime. Crack beer number two.



View attachment 89672



Step Three: Polish. Here I used Meguiars Swirl X (their ultimate compound works great too). Because I had a good amount of swirl marks from a previous owner who did not know how to properly wash my baby, swirl x got the call, otherwise I use the ultimate compound. This is where the da polisher comes in and saves the day. I worked about a two foot section at a time. I also used a light cutting foam pad as I had mostly swirl marks and not too many deep scratches to get out, RPM’s may vary depending on your brand of polisher, but 4000 rpm worked well for me on this step.. Apply some polish to the pad ( just dot the surface of the pad to get some on there). Press the pad to the vehicle surface before turning on the polisher or you’ll have a mess on your hands. I went slow and covered the working area twice before wiping the polish away. Don’t let the polish get dry during this step, re-applicate polish to the pad as needed. My pickup used one full bottle of polish. I like to use a DA polisher here because it won’t burn through your clear coat, it will simply stop rotating if you apply too much pressure. Make sure to press firmly enough to get the polish worked in though or your just wasting your time. YouTube has some great resources if you need to brush up on your technique. I wiped away the polish with the wet wash mitt in order to keep from dry rubbing it off but use your own judgement here. Once the polish was rinsed off I wiped the surface with a dry, CLEAN microfiber towel and inspected to make sure it looked good before continuing on. Repeat this entire step as needed until you get the deep wet finish you are looking for. Crack another beer ( I was about 5 deep at this point).



View attachment 89673





Step Four: WAX. I waited until I had the entire pickup polished before waxing. I rinsed the entire vehicle off again with my wash mitt to make sure any dust that accumulated after polishing was gone and used a finishing pad for the application. RPM setting at 2500 for this step. I also worked in about two foot sections as I was working outside and did not want the wax drying on the surface of the vehicle. This step took maybe 45 minutes total. If you don’t have any paint defects you can skip the polish step and go straight to this one after clay bar. I just worked the wax in good with the polisher and wiped it off with a CLEAN micro towel. One for removal, one for the final wipe away. I cannot express enough the importance of using clean towels as you work, do NOT hesitate to throw one aside once it gets dingy with wax or starts to show dirt. I probably used a total of ten micro towels and will use even more next time. Trust me you do not want to screw up your hours of work and dollars of investment at this point over something as stupid as a dirty towel re-swirling your paint as you wipe away wax.







That about summed it up for me. Again I am by no means a professional but as you can see the results speak for themselves. Just take your time and be thorough in each step and it will go just fine. I really like both Meguiars and Mothers products for cleaning and detailing but everyone has their favorites and I’m sure you can get good results with other brands as well. My polisher is a $85 cheapy TCP Global but it worked great, I highly recommend the wash mitt vs. a brush as that may cause more swirls and scratches and is harder to rinse throughout the whole process. A lot of people will tell you not to work outside but it worked fine for me, I just pulled the ol girl onto the grass and made sure I wasn’t the downwind recipient of any dust waves coming from the guys hauling grain from our bins. I laid towels over any paint surfaces that were in the sun to keep the paint cool. Using cool water for washing should get your paint as cool as it needs to be, I had to rinse a few spots a couple times to cool them off before starting the clay bar and polish steps but use good judgement on that. Make sure you don’t work on a hot paint surface or it can damage the clear coat. Other than that get you some cold ones, get out there and get to work! Hope you have as much fun as I did and get the results you want!



View attachment 89674

View attachment 89675



-CruisinCO



Looks beautiful! Great job and thank you for the write up! *Cracked open beer number two while writing!* [emoji482]


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Pull Ya

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Great write up! The only thing that I do differently is I always use a sealant after the polish step and before the wax step. Sealant usually last about 6 months and wax usually will only last for about 3-4 weeks. I believe that the sealant just gives longer protection. Thanks for taking the time to explain your process----including the most important part--the beer breaks.
Jay
 
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CruisinCO

CruisinCO

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Thank you Curlyp. Beers we're crucial in this process!

Thanks Pull ya. I haven't used a sealant before but makes perfect sense and I definitely will next time before I wax! What brand/s do you like?
 

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Wolfgang 3.0 Sealant. I let it cure for about 24 hours(or overnight) and then top it with Collinite 845. I use Opti Spray Wax after every wash and use Polish Angel High Gloss Spray Wax before car shows or just on "special" occasions.(It too damn expensive to use all the time). You can check out autopia, which is a professional detailer site, for different products and write-ups from professional detailers about the products they use and they also post pictures of their results. WARNING---you can spend lots of time and money on that site---LOL
Jay
 
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CrispyBacon

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How do you reach? Do you use a ladder?

I have no idea how to reach everything.
 
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CruisinCO

CruisinCO

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Wolfgang 3.0 Sealant. I let it cure for about 24 hours(or overnight) and then top it with Collinite 845. I use Opti Spray Wax after every wash and use Polish Angel High Gloss Spray Wax before car shows or just on "special" occasions.(It too damn expensive to use all the time). You can check out autopia, which is a professional detailer site, for different products and write-ups from professional detailers about the products they use and they also post pictures of their results. WARNING---you can spend lots of time and money on that site---LOL
Jay

Thanks Jay, I am going to check out autopia and get me some of that wolfgang and use it when my wax job wears off. Can I just wash, re-clay and go straight to the sealant then re-wax? 6 months of protection sounds way better than the 3-4 weeks of just wax protection. Especially as I drive about a mile of dirt every day. Might have to get me some of the polish Angel too! Although I am not up to your level (no shows yet, for me too many stock parts). I'm a little worried I won't have any money left after my visit but hell I'll just work some more hours! :naughty:.

Crispy: I have a small step ladder I use to reach the tops of the doors and roof. I just stood on my tires to do the hood.
 

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You can check your surface to see if you need to re-clay bar. After you wash and dry(you might try a blower instead of "rubbing" it dry)put your hand in a z-lock bag and rub the surface, maybe on the top, sides, hood and tailgate. If it feels smooth, there is no reason to clay bar, however if you feel "bumps" on the surface you should clay bar. You should polish if necessary to take out any swirls or small scratches. If you don't they will show through the sealant and wax. Then you can put the sealant on and then let it cure and then top it with the wax of your choice. With the Wolfgang 3.0 the least you use the better results you will get. Same with the Collinite 845. The Wolfgang can be used on the whole truck and then you can wipe it off(microfiber). With the Collinite you can only do one panel at a time. If you try to do the whole side of the truck at one time you will have hell taking it off after it dries. I do one door at a time. As usual, a cool surface is your friend. Good luck, and let us know who it turns out.-------OH--don't forget the beer :naughty::naughty:
Jay
 

mills3

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Great write up! The only thing that I do differently is I always use a sealant after the polish step and before the wax step. Sealant usually last about 6 months and wax usually will only last for about 3-4 weeks. I believe that the sealant just gives longer protection. Thanks for taking the time to explain your process----including the most important part--the beer breaks.
Jay

Couldn't agree more. I always polish, seal, and then wax. Layering is the way to go.
 

mills3

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Awesome job! Make sure you get those wheel wells with some undercarriage spray! :)
 

BiGMERF

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my back disagrees with this process.. lol
 
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CruisinCO

CruisinCO

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Jay, thanks for all that good info, I will be putting it to work as soon as my fresh wax wears off. I'm excited to see what a sealant does to hold up my detailing job. Going to try that method on the bumper I just got painted up, hopefully makes the bugs easier to clean off!

Thanks Mills, yeah I was noticing that... They are getting pretty greyed out... I need to get me some of that rubberized sound dampening stuff and spray them really well. Maybe this weekend!

And Merf, that's what the beer is for! My body was definitely feeling it the day after I did this!
 
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CruisinCO

CruisinCO

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Hey Jay long time since this convo but I just bought me some Wolfgang 3.0 and have done another polish so I'm gonna apply it here today or tomorrow. Do you apply with the DA polisher set on a low speed or just apply it by hand?
 

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I apply by hand. You can also use a polisher but I prefer doing it the old fashion way--
Jay
 
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CruisinCO

CruisinCO

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I was hoping you'd say that! Think I'll do the same, specially since a little goes a long way. So I am good to just apply, buff off and let it sit for 24 hours before waxing?
 

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Sounds good to me---less than less is always better. Post pic's when you finish your project---please
Jay
 
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CruisinCO

CruisinCO

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Sure thing! Might take me a few days, the wolfgang hasn't gotten to the house yet. I am excited to see what it does vs just waxing, I'm afraid I'm going to want to turn It into a pavement princess! My '08 Ram has been sitting in the garage for a week not getting dirty, meanwhile the 'ol second gen is my new daily.
 
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CruisinCO

CruisinCO

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Hey Jay stupid question for ya. I have read about several guys using sealant on their rims. Is this a different type from the wolfgang or the same stuff? With all the dirt I drive I'd like to seal my rims if the wolfgang will work, of course clean really good and claybar first. Thanks!
 

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I use it on my rims also. A lot of people that have their truck coated also have the rims coated also. A sealant or wax or coating sure makes it easier to clean the rims and the brake dust doesn't stick as bad. After you get the truck sealed and waxed, then we can talk about a spray wax that you can use after every wash to enhance the depth of your shine and add protection for the finish. It only takes about 15 minutes to do it after every wash. I even add a little of it to my wash bucket when I wash the truck. Opti Spray Car Wax.
https://www.autopia-carcare.com/optimum-car-wax.html#.WjGd1FWnGG4
Jay
 
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CruisinCO

CruisinCO

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Sounds Great Jay! Glad to hear that and I am always up for learning more on how to care for my Ram. And thanks for the link, maybe I can get that on my Christmas list and then I'll really be ready to have a clean pickup!
 
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