Help dealer wants to replace my motor !

Howdy,

I’ve a 2013, 1500, SLT 5.7 167,000 miles. Bought it new. Drive around 42000 a year no hauling, except ATV small trailer.

Have had all the maintenance done regularly, after a few larger repairs for exhaust manifold bolt issues both sides. * The #5 cylinder misfired, ok so you know the rest, the lifter rod is bad and destroyed the cam. I’m being told that this requires a new motor because the shavings from the cam have compromised the motor, does this sound like the real deal or is it a scam by the dealer. For some reason the mechanic I talked with who showed me the lifter rocker arm (value cover was off) not lifting, I believed. However, after looking over this great forum I’m having second thoughts if this is true.

Questions:

1. Motor replaced $9,000 (Long Block) 3 yr 150,000 Mile warranty

2. replace the cams and rods and take my chances Don’t know the cost

3. salvage the truck. No idea what it’s worth

*Dealer told me the metal bolts weren’t compatible with the aluminum block (sounds a little fishy) expanded and contracted at a different rate, that’s why they replaced with titanium bolts. I asked the dealer why was I having to pay for Mopar bad engineering, no answer.

Thanks for reading.

I would start looking for a junk yard motor and swap it out.



I mean you could swap in a new cam and lifters But if they are right and the bearings are scored from all the metal and it spins a bearing a few thousand miles later you will be out all that money.

Get a second opinion from a local reputable shop, and have them do it cheaper and with better quality than a dealership. Run from dealer, especially that you don't have any warranty left. Read through all the horror stories of getting service done at dealer.

This is 100% true. BUT, also might not be necessary.

Your cam is worn, likely caused by lifter failure. The pushrod is bent, most likely from valve contact with the piston.
The cam and lifter failures definitely caused debris in your oil. This oil is circulated throughout your engine in the oil. Wether or not this caused wear in your bearings or cylinder walls or valve train is something you would have to check. But, to do this you would have to tear down the motor.

Sure, you could put a new cam, lifters, pushrods, and check and/or repair the cylinder head and try to get the debris out and see how that goes. But a dealer or shop won't do that......especially with a truck with a motor that has 157k miles on it. If they have to fix something they are going to go worst case scenario. I can see how and why they want to replace the whole motor. It' really the only way that they can fix your truck and make sure you're going to walk away with a repair that will work 100%.
If they replace the cam, lifters, pushrods, and repair your head and then you have a worn out bottom end and still have problems it's going to be a big headache for you and them. It would look really bad on them as well.

Bottom line, absolutely you COULD need a new motor. Even if you made the repairs, I would think your bill wouldn't be that far off of what a whole motor would cost. And in the end it might be necessary anyway.

michaelrc51 said:

This is 100% true. BUT, also might not be necessary.

Your cam is worn, likely caused by lifter failure. The pushrod is bent, most likely from valve contact with the piston.
The cam and lifter failures definitely caused debris in your oil. This oil is circulated throughout your engine in the oil. Wether or not this caused wear in your bearings or cylinder walls or valve train is something you would have to check. But, to do this you would have to tear down the motor.

Sure, you could put a new cam, lifters, pushrods, and check and/or repair the cylinder head and try to get the debris out and see how that goes. But a dealer or shop won't do that......especially with a truck with a motor that has 157k miles on it. If they have to fix something they are going to go worst case scenario. I can see how and why they want to replace the whole motor. It' really the only way that they can fix your truck and make sure you're going to walk away with a repair that will work 100%.
If they replace the cam, lifters, pushrods, and repair your head and then you have a worn out bottom end and still have problems it's going to be a big headache for you and them. It would look really bad on them as well.

Bottom line, absolutely you COULD need a new motor. Even if you made the repairs, I would think your bill wouldn't be that far off of what a whole motor would cost. And in the end it might be necessary anyway.

Click to expand...

With those kind of miles I would trade it in and demand a great deal. Truck is still worth something and then add the repair money and upgrade! My 13 just hit 30000 this week.

Michaelrc made a great point above there. Best reply I've heard so far.

Dadio said:

Howdy,

I’ve a 2013, 1500, SLT 5.7 167,000 miles. Bought it new. Drive around 42000 a year no hauling, except ATV small trailer.

Have had all the maintenance done regularly, after a few larger repairs for exhaust manifold bolt issues both sides. * The #5 cylinder misfired, ok so you know the rest, the lifter rod is bad and destroyed the cam. I’m being told that this requires a new motor because the shavings from the cam have compromised the motor, does this sound like the real deal or is it a scam by the dealer. For some reason the mechanic I talked with who showed me the lifter rocker arm (value cover was off) not lifting, I believed. However, after looking over this great forum I’m having second thoughts if this is true.

Questions:

1. Motor replaced $9,000 (Long Block) 3 yr 150,000 Mile warranty

2. replace the cams and rods and take my chances Don’t know the cost

3. salvage the truck. No idea what it’s worth

*Dealer told me the metal bolts weren’t compatible with the aluminum block (sounds a little fishy) expanded and contracted at a different rate, that’s why they replaced with titanium bolts. I asked the dealer why was I having to pay for Mopar bad engineering, no answer.

Thanks for reading.

Click to expand...

By the way, did dealer asked you to pay the fee for teardown of the engine? Especially that you're out of warranty.

I've seen a few times where dealer asks to approve $2500 charge to diagnose and teardown the engine prior to them taking it apart.

Have you thought about swapping it out for one from a 13 wreck. There should be some low mileage ones out there.

car-parts.com says there are plenty around for under $3000 with low miles.

avantiguy said:

Have you thought about swapping it out for one from a 13 wreck. There should be some low mileage ones out there.

car-parts.com says there are plenty around for under $3000 with low miles.

Click to expand...

That’s a good idea as well.

How much would a reman cost from Jasper or some of the other reman places?


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69GWC said:

I would start looking for a junk yard motor and swap it out.



I mean you could swap in a new cam and lifters But if they are right and the bearings are scored from all the metal and it spins a bearing a few thousand miles later you will be out all that money.

Click to expand...

Here's a good place to start looking for wrecked Rams with serviceable engines if you want.
http://www.car-part.com/index.htm

Thanks to all, I see where the Mech, was being truthful, I will shop around today for a local shop rather the then the dealer, although I did like the 150K warranty they offered. Anybody know any around the Denver Metro / Colo Springs area?

Thanks for all the input,going to have it towed out of the dealership and have a another shop look at it. I called around and one guy said he could have the engine rebuilt for a lot less then a new long block.
anyone know of a good shop in the Denver / Colo Springs area ( I live between them )

I have a 2500 2003 that had 167000 miles on it when a valve spring broke. I found out later thru the forum that it happened in early 2003s. I took it to a dealer and they broke the engine trying to find out what was wrong. I ended up buying a rebuilt engine from Promar Precision Engines for $2999 and had a local shop swap it our for me. Another $1000. But that was in Jan 2012 and it runs great. Have now a total of over 205000 miles on it and going strong.

Dadio said:

Thanks for all the input,going to have it towed out of the dealership and have a another shop look at it. I called around and one guy said he could have the engine rebuilt for a lot less then a new long block.
anyone know of a good shop in the Denver / Colo Springs area ( I live between them )

Click to expand...

I'm curious how much dealer charged to diagnose and tear down your engine and then put it back together to have you tow it elsewhere?

Could you please share for our experience? Thank you

Replace the original motor. Mechanic is right IMO about damage from metal circulating in the oil and wiping out bearings and parts. (I assembled diesel engines for Caterpillar on their engine assembly lines years ago. I partially built 225 engines a shift. My job was crankshaft and crank bearing installation and sometimes camshafts.) I think the mechanic is probably right about the bolts expanding. So don't discount his advice just because you don't like what he had to tell you. He is just the messenger. I think he is probably spot on.

To rebuild the original motor, you would need to pull out and disassemble your original motor, hot tank it (wash it), then rebuild it. Not cheap to save it. $9,000 for a new Mopar replacement, isn't cheap and probably has some dealer mark up on it! But the dealer is there to make a profit like anyone else, so just saying...labor ain't free.

Lots of options out there for replacement motors. You can get remanufactured short and long blocks that have been rebuilt with a warranty, but doubt they will have 150,000 mile warranty. You could pick up one from a local salvage yard too for cheap and have it installed without a warranty.

You got a lot of miles out of the original motor. Your truck isn't worth much without a running motor. You could buy another used one and trade off your old one. If you love your existing truck, then repair the damage and know that the next motor should last a long time. **** happens. Sorry you had this happen to you.

You can rebuild it but like the mech and others have said you're just asking for trouble. When those little metal bits start flying around you're moving on borrowed time. Bite the bullet, swear at the Mopar designers, and replace that engine so you'll have your baby working again with 100% certainty.

cough cough 392 hemi ebay...

Dadio said:

Howdy,

I’ve a 2013, 1500, SLT 5.7 167,000 miles. Bought it new. Drive around 42000 a year no hauling, except ATV small trailer.

Have had all the maintenance done regularly, after a few larger repairs for exhaust manifold bolt issues both sides. * The #5 cylinder misfired, ok so you know the rest, the lifter rod is bad and destroyed the cam. I’m being told that this requires a new motor because the shavings from the cam have compromised the motor, does this sound like the real deal or is it a scam by the dealer. For some reason the mechanic I talked with who showed me the lifter rocker arm (value cover was off) not lifting, I believed. However, after looking over this great forum I’m having second thoughts if this is true.

Questions:

1. Motor replaced $9,000 (Long Block) 3 yr 150,000 Mile warranty

2. replace the cams and rods and take my chances Don’t know the cost

3. salvage the truck. No idea what it’s worth

*Dealer told me the metal bolts weren’t compatible with the aluminum block (sounds a little fishy) expanded and contracted at a different rate, that’s why they replaced with titanium bolts. I asked the dealer why was I having to pay for Mopar bad engineering, no answer.

Thanks for reading.

Click to expand...

Dadio, check out this Youtube video. Pretty much same issue as yours, on a 2500 2013 5.7 Hemi (no MDS). Tech just replaced the Cam and Lifters, which he charged about $2-3k for and send the truck on his way. The cam looked like it was damaged pretty bad too. Thoughts?

Ziggy said:

I have a 2500 2003 that had 167000 miles on it when a valve spring broke. I found out later thru the forum that it happened in early 2003s. I took it to a dealer and they broke the engine trying to find out what was wrong. I ended up buying a rebuilt engine from Promar Precision Engines for $2999 and had a local shop swap it our for me. Another $1000. But that was in Jan 2012 and it runs great. Have now a total of over 205000 miles on it and going strong.

Click to expand...

Thanks or the input, I like hearing the "20500 miles