8 speed 4x4 drag racing

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Gorillaclub

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I’ve been doing a bit of searching on the forums and really just looking for opinions or what people have experienced when going to the track.

Obviously as the title says I have an eight speed 5.7 4 x 4 1500 and I getting the bug to maybe take it to the drag racing track as it sits stock and then later on as I modify it.

Question I have is how are you guys running the truck at the track? Obviously with the eight speed it has 4wd low and 4wd lock. Obviously I wouldn’t run it in low but I’m also not sure if I should run it in lock. Also are you guys going pretty high on the stall or are you launching from Idle with the four-wheel-drive’s.
 

MeatCurtains

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Last time I raced with an auto id stomp the brake at the line, stomp the throttle until I felt it start to push and just before the brakes gave, then slip my toe off the brake and hold on.

It's brutal on your transmission but just sitting there at idle then stomping the gas won't get you anywhere.

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Wild one

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I’ve been doing a bit of searching on the forums and really just looking for opinions or what people have experienced when going to the track.

Obviously as the title says I have an eight speed 5.7 4 x 4 1500 and I getting the bug to maybe take it to the drag racing track as it sits stock and then later on as I modify it.

Question I have is how are you guys running the truck at the track? Obviously with the eight speed it has 4wd low and 4wd lock. Obviously I wouldn’t run it in low but I’m also not sure if I should run it in lock. Also are you guys going pretty high on the stall or are you launching from Idle with the four-wheel-drive’s.

Launch off dead idle,otherwise torque management kicks in and pulls power on you + you'll get a slightly higher "flash" rpm from your torque convertor. Most guys on street tires only go to about 3/4 throttle on launch,then mash the pedal about 30 ft out of the hole to keep wheel spin to a mininium . My little 4x4 is almost 2/10's quicker in 2wd mode then it is in 4X4 Auto, "but" i'm running drag radials,so you'll have to experiment a bit if you're running street tires.Your truck might like 4X4 Auto to get out of the hole. If you're good with the shift buttons,launch in 3rd gear and manually shift it after it makes the first couple of gear changes.Odds are you won't be able to manually shift it fast enough for the first couple of gears,i have paddle shifters in my truck,and even with the paddle shifters I can't make the first shift fast enough to keep the tranny out of limp mode. Try to run it up till the tach reads between 5700 and 5800 to make your shifts,there's a good chance your tach is slightly slow and somewhere around 5800 rpm on the tach should put you very close to an actual 6,000 rpm shift. Don't worry if you hear a squeal from under the hood at your shift points,it's only the fan belt. Join Nadodge on facebook,that's where a lot of the guys drag racing the trucks hang out,not very many of the hardcore guys hang out here or on any of the forums anymore,they seem to have moved to facebook these days. The best advice is just go,and try a few different launch techinques and shift points to see what your truck likes,it takes a fair bit of practice to find out what your truck likes.Hunt up Gary Trail he holds the street tire record right at the moment and can give you a few pointers on getting the truck out of the hole on street tires. If you're leaving everything on the truck,like tailgate etc.,leave it up,you'll mph faster with the tailgate up then you will with it down. Most guys pull the spare tire out,but in your case the extra weight might work in your favour to keep wheel spin down,that's one you'll have to experiment with. Once you move up to drag radials or slicks,you can take the tailgate and spare etc. off.Depending on how much work you want to put in,you can also pull some weight from the interior pretty easily,alot of guys pull the passenger seats and console out,me i'm lazy,the farthest I've ever gone is to pull the pass seat/take tonnue cover and tailgate off,and leave the spare tire at home,but if your ambitious there's guys like Matt and Kyle who've stripped door panels/speakers ,and in Matts case headliner etc.,that's way to much work for me though. I run mine with-out the front swaybar at the track,it helps free up the front end so it'll rise a little faster and help with weight transfer .Don't listen to the advice given above,as all it'll do is cause your truck to go into torque management mode and pull power at the line,the fastest NA guys all launch off idle
 
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Wild one

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Gary's Hemi on here is the Gary you want to talk to
 

Pull Ya

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Wild One gave you some good information. If you go to that facebook page and you don't support Jay Greene watch what you say.
Jay
 

Wild one

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Wild One gave you some good information. If you go to that facebook page and you don't support Jay Greene watch what you say.
Jay

LOL Jay made a good point. Some threads on facebook are best if you look at them from an entertainments point of view,don't join in,just sit back and read them with a laugh,lol
Rick
 

Pull Ya

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Some of us have learned the hard way. I agree 1000%
Jay
 

Wild one

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There's been a couple nights of entertainment lately,lol. It also helps if you remember what a lot of posters sound like on a keyboard aren't the same,as they are if you meet them face to face ,most guys are actually pretty decent face to face,but put a keyboard under their fingers,and they become a bit of a warrior,lol.
 
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Gorillaclub

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Idk who jay Greene is so I can’t say either way....
 

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I'd rather not comment further on this as I don't want this thread to end up like most involving this subject.
Jay
 
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Gorillaclub

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I’m confused can someone pm me details here lol
 

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The thread just got off track a little. If you disregard the comments in the last few posts and go back to Wild One's post(post #3) regarding your original question I think we'll be back on track. Sorry I semi hijacked the thread----
Jay
 

Wild one

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Gorilla you have to be careful about mentioning some tuners names ,so you have to use a little common sense and remember what site you're on. On here mentioning Jay Greene will get you in trouble,where as if you're on Nadodge on facebook you don't want to mention Seans name (Hemifever). There's some die hard guys on both sites who are willing to go to war if you mention the wrong tuners name ,lol. Me I use an oddball Canuck tuner,so I don't usually mention his name here or on Nadodge,lol.
 
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Gorillaclub

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OK I understand you now and it makes more sense thank you for clarifying the problem I’m having is I’m afraid of warranty issues when it comes to tuning I understand you get a brand new PCM but I’ve heard some Dodge dealerships can see the mileage difference and know that you had removed and then put back in your stock PCM
 

Wild one

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OK I understand you now and it makes more sense thank you for clarifying the problem I’m having is I’m afraid of warranty issues when it comes to tuning I understand you get a brand new PCM but I’ve heard some Dodge dealerships can see the mileage difference and know that you had removed and then put back in your stock PCM

They have to actually go looking for the difference to find it,so it is possible,but not as likely as you think. It all depends on the the dealer,some are more willing to wear dark sunglasses then others,so if you have a good dealership and you're on good terms with them,I wouldn't worry to much about the pcm swap. I've had the rear limited slip done under warrenty in my truck and the dealer knows I race the truck on drag radials weekly and hit it with nitrous,but I also run their decal in my back window and send as many buyers as I can their way,so cultivate a good relationship with your local dealer.
 

MeatCurtains

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So if I'm reading this correctly, the engine management starts cutting power before wheel slippage?

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Wild one

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It's called torque management,and it pulls timing .Yes you can still do a burn-out standing on the brakes and skinny pedal at the same time,but you'll 60ft faster if you don't load the motor up while standing on the brakes.Plus the convertor will flash to a slightly higher rpm if you floor it from idle. There's more torque management engineered into the 4X4's then the 2wh drive trucks to save the light duty transfer case Fiat uses in the 4X4 1500's with 4 auto. All you need to do is a little research and you'll find this out,as it's pretty common knowledge in the gasser 1500 world.
 
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