LED high beams

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IRSmart

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So unbeknownst to me, the premium projector headlights have a separate bulb for the high beams (as I'm sure everyone here knew but me). I just assumed that since it has a projector that it used a baffle plate to activate the high beams from the projector. that's why you don't assume! so, since I will be using a DDM Tuning CANBUS Plus 55W kit in 5500k, and the Morimoto fog light kit which i believe is also right about 5500k, I don't want a halogen high beam, especially since my truck will be equipped with LED lights on my Go Rhino sport bar as well. I also know that since they will be going on and off more often than the low beams, an HID would not be as desirable in that location.

that brings me to my questions. I have had a lot of success with DDM tuning in the past due to their compatibility with FCA vehicles and their low cost. I was looking at the LED kits they have on their website and have a few questions:

1) Are the high beams also CANBUS monitored? the LEDs on DDM's website seem to have an option for an "LED decoder", what is this and do i need it to play nice with the truck?

2) What brightness should i get? I know that wattage translates into heat, and i don't want to melt anything on my mildly expensive truck. their website offers 35W, 40W, and 50W option.

3) I don't see where their kit offers a grommet, are the high beams also behind a dust shield? I haven't been able to find reliable photos of the back of the premium housings to confirm, and my truck isn't actually here yet (it's not even in the USA yet lol)
 

firebuff17

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Just a tid bit of info in this.
Your projectors are bi-halogen. When you flick your hi-beams on the projector drops its shroud and bulb stays lit AND turns on the separate high beam bulb. So if you turn your high beams on and look at the front of your truck 4 bulbs will be lit.
 
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IRSmart

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well I'm glad i said something then lol. getting to the original questions then, and adding one more. does the truck sense when a high beam bulb is out? i may just unplug the high beam bulb altogether to keep the color temperature from looking too "odd" with a hallogen bulb. on the other hand, there is likely a shadow that is created by the HID bulb's return wire that the additional high beam bulb would help to wash out, so i guess i'm a little undecided. i'd still like to know a bit more about the questions i posted above, but i'll likely wait until the truck gets here and drive a bit at night (which i do frequently) to see what i think. thanks for that info!
 
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IRSmart

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Ok, so I answered one of my questions, came up with another, and elaborated on the post above lol

1) I chatted in to DDM tuning's support team, who was somewhat helpful. I asked what the LED decoders were and if i needed them. they said they're basically error eliminators and yes, our trucks need them. i then asked if the kit would then come with any type of grommet and wire harness pass through since all that equipment would not fit in the headlight. they never came back into the chat and answered that question so i'm still unsure of that one.

2) As far as headlight operation goes, i went out onto my lot and played with a 3500 limited with the same headlights. it seems that when the stalk is pulled back towards the driver, that ONLY the inner bulb illuminates and the baffle in the projector does not drop. i was about to call the poster above a liar when i decided to try and force the high beams on manually. when i did that, the baffle did indeed drop, AND the inner bulb came on. this means that when i am trying to signal a driver with my high beams that only the inner bulb will illuminate, meaning i can't eliminate this bulb, i will NEED to use an LED kit. as soon as i can figure out if it comes with a grommet kit (which i imagine it would, there just aren't any pics) and settle on which wattage to go, i think i'll be set to grab a kit.
 

firebuff17

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I am not fully versed in these projectors. I only answered what I knew to be true from reading numerous other threads on headlights. I was unaware that when pulling the stalk towards you (flash to pass) that only the true high beam bulb illuminates. Interesting... and makes sense. Saves stress on the solenoid and the shroud.
1) I would assume the high beams are CANBUS monitored. People have mentioned they get bulb out warnings for license plate lights. But I know what happens when you assume.
2)I would say preference or match the wattage of the incandescent that your replacing.
3) I would have to double check my set of OEM projectors that I have (in a box waiting on a conversion harness) but 99% sure the high is behind a dust cap. Just can’t remember if it is a 1/4 turn circular dust cap or if it’s behind the large projector dust cap that requires the removal of 6 8mm bolts.
 
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IRSmart

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I am not fully versed in these projectors. I only answered what I knew to be true from reading numerous other threads on headlights. I was unaware that when pulling the stalk towards you (flash to pass) that only the true high beam bulb illuminates. Interesting... and makes sense. Saves stress on the solenoid and the shroud.
1) I would assume the high beams are CANBUS monitored. People have mentioned they get bulb out warnings for license plate lights. But I know what happens when you assume.
2)I would say preference or match the wattage of the incandescent that your replacing.
3) I would have to double check my set of OEM projectors that I have (in a box waiting on a conversion harness) but 99% sure the high is behind a dust cap. Just can’t remember if it is a 1/4 turn circular dust cap or if it’s behind the large projector dust cap that requires the removal of 6 8mm bolts.
Not knocking you, very much appreciate your help. By discovering that I can turn on the high beams in different ways, it allowed me to rethink how my off-road lights will be hard wired into the high beam system.
 

crash68

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I have the LEDs in the highs from AutoLED Corp and needed to use CANbus error cancelers on them. They are also all silver so you don't notice them in the open reflector of the high beams.
Pulling the turn signal stalk back is "Flash to Pass". That's probably why the lows don't drop the shutter on the projectors. Now if only people on the freeway left lane would realize when someone behind them flashes brights to move out of the way.
 
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IRSmart

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How did you go through the dust covers? Any pics of the installation into the housing?
 

crash68

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How did you go through the dust covers? Any pics of the installation into the housing?
I should've mentioned that I have quad headlights. The LEDs for the highs and the error cancelers fit inside the housing without drilling the dustcover (another reason I went with them).
AutoLED has a Facebook page or email them [email protected]
I'm sure they can give you detailed instructions on how to install them.
 

firebuff17

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Not knocking you, very much appreciate your help. By discovering that I can turn on the high beams in different ways, it allowed me to rethink how my off-road lights will be hard wired into the high beam system.

No worries my friend. It’s all good.
I learned something new from your investigation. [emoji1303]
 
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IRSmart

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That’s exactly what I wanted to see, thank you!
 
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