Synthetic Oil

Oil of Choice

  • Castrol Syntec/Edge

    Votes: 236 8.5%
  • Royal Purple

    Votes: 327 11.8%
  • AMSOil

    Votes: 400 14.4%
  • Valvoline Synpower

    Votes: 160 5.8%
  • Mobil 1

    Votes: 994 35.8%
  • Other

    Votes: 662 23.8%

  • Total voters
    2,779

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Burla

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a little low psi, take that at idle?
 

Rampant

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10b31e539c78efc736ab18d8bf3ecbdd.jpg

This doesn’t look too bad.


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This was mine just before changing factory fill, then just after first fill of SS 0w-40, then 8k later on same SS 0W-40 just before changing.
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Burla

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Great AAA study (pdf) on top tier fuel. One can surmise that PEA cleaners would clearly put any gas in very high detergency levels and of course is the same detergent in many gas brands. It was nice to see what the main issue is, that fuel gets stuck in the end of the injector at shut off when the chamber is hot, this causes issues.
 

Burla

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Oh no they didn't (pdf), blackstone weighs in on best oil, hint it isn't Royal Purple. If Royal Purple users need one more reason why to not run that garbage, here ya go.

Shell Rotella T6 had the lowest iron wear rate, at 2.03 ppm per 1,000 miles, while Royal Purple 5W/30 had the highest wear rate... of note the wear on RP was still low eventhough it was the highest wear numbers.

You can also tell this was old formula Amsoil with high calcium.

Blackstone's official findings, lol.

So what does all of this tell us? Well, we’re no closer to saying that one type of oil is better than another, that’s for sure. We see much more variation in wear levels from the type of engine, the time on the oil, the viscosity, the use the engine sees, etc. Whatever differences exist from oil brand to oil brand, we don’t see a lot of difference in terms of wear for most types of engines.
 
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R.L.K.

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R.L.K.

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Have you ever noticed the irony in that the most used oil (M1, according to this poll) is the least tested on this forum? It has more votes than 2nd and 3rd place combined, but I hardly ever see any UOAs with it. Things that make you go Hmmm...
Hmm ??

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huntergreen

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If I was replacing my water pump, I would replace with a high performance pump. Don't like plastic impellers.
 

huntergreen

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Smiley, the oil analysis I have seen on bitog for pup, all look good to me, so I will stick with it until/unless I have a reason to change.
 

huntergreen

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Folks I have a question. In a new thread, there is 2 more trucks where stuck lifters have taken out the cam. Was wonder what your thoughts are on Liguimoly preventing the lifter issue. Thanks all.
 

Rampant

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Folks I have a question. In a new thread, there is 2 more trucks where stuck lifters have taken out the cam. Was wonder what your thoughts are on Liguimoly preventing the lifter issue. Thanks all.
"Preventing" is a pretty strong word in this case. It definitely won't hurt, but I wouldn't count on it to prevent anything. Moly is great stuff, but its no magic pill.
 

69GWC

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And to ad to that, if its just parts that are failing because of the cheap metal or bad manufacturing there is nothing that will help.

All you can do is use the best oil and filter you can and keep it changed and clean and any top quality additives surely can not hurt.

As for the best oil, well that is up to you to make that call but we know of atleast 4 or 5 oils that work well in the Hemi.
 

Burla

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Hunter liqui moly is powdered moly in suspension, whether that plates the same way as oil soluble moly I don't have the info. The difference between zinc and moly is moly needs high pressure and temp to plate and is a strong bond. Zinc plates very easy but is a weak bond. We know oil soluble moly does work, we even had guys reporting lubeguard end ticks. I think liqui moly is worth a shot, but I wouldn't F with hemi tick, if someone gets hemi tick drop in redline and call it a day. What more does anyone need to see it kills ticks at a very high success rate? Lubeguards biotech would be worth a shot as well. I would say that you need to give moly time to plate, you can't judge it for 1,000 miles.
 
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