Lug Nuts

I have an 07 Ram 2500. 8 lug nuts per wheel. The lug nuts over time are hard to put on and take off. They are not cross threaded at all. Hard to the point that my impact driver works to get them off. I went and bought a chase threader 9/16-18 NF and chased one lug nut. There was quite a bit of debris and metal cuttings that came through. The lug nut went on perfect I could put it on by hand all the way down and then torqued down. My question: Is this too good to be true for ease of going on? Am I opening myself up for loose lug nuts in the future if I do all 8? Not sure if there should be some natural resistance when tightening. Has anyone else chased their threads?

As inexpensive as lug nuts are, ($40 or less on eBay) I would just buy a new set. If you're cutting threads, I'd buy new just to be safe.

WS07 said:

I have an 07 Ram 2500. 8 lug nuts per wheel. The lug nuts over time are hard to put on and take off. They are not cross threaded at all. Hard to the point that my impact driver works to get them off. I went and bought a chase threader 9/16-18 NF and chased one lug nut. There was quite a bit of debris and metal cuttings that came through. The lug nut went on perfect I could put it on by hand all the way down and then torqued down. My question: Is this too good to be true for ease of going on? Am I opening myself up for loose lug nuts in the future if I do all 8? Not sure if there should be some natural resistance when tightening. Has anyone else chased their threads?

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Evaporust will clean the lug nuts in a small amount of time then rinse them with water. Put a very small amount of anti seize in the stud you’ll be good to go. I would also paint the lug nuts with some caliper paint too. Just to make them look good.


I Love My 2018 RAM 2500HD 4x4 6.4L
Mod list: Pedal Commander, AVS Vent shades, Solo Delete kit, molar side step rails

WS07 said:

I have an 07 Ram 2500. 8 lug nuts per wheel. The lug nuts over time are hard to put on and take off. They are not cross threaded at all. Hard to the point that my impact driver works to get them off. I went and bought a chase threader 9/16-18 NF and chased one lug nut. There was quite a bit of debris and metal cuttings that came through. The lug nut went on perfect I could put it on by hand all the way down and then torqued down. My question: Is this too good to be true for ease of going on? Am I opening myself up for loose lug nuts in the future if I do all 8? Not sure if there should be some natural resistance when tightening. Has anyone else chased their threads?

Click to expand...

Are you sure they ain’t a metric thread?? It is after all a metric world now a days


I Love My 2018 RAM 2500HD 4x4 6.4L
Mod list: Pedal Commander, AVS Vent shades, Solo Delete kit, molar side step rails

Well if he chased the threads of the nut with a standard tap they wouldn’t have screwed on if the stud was metric.


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Seconding the recommendation to use a small amount of anti-seize lubricant.

whetrick1 said:

Well if he chased the threads of the nut with a standard tap they wouldn’t have screwed on if the stud was metric.


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Some of the thread pitches are really close to a standard pitch.
I only mention this because I’ve ran into similar situations. 1 involves head bolts on an ‘87 Toyota Supra. Yes the engine is running and has held up really good. It’s putting a solid 575 RWHP


I Love My 2018 RAM 2500HD 4x4 6.4L
Mod list: Pedal Commander, AVS Vent shades, Solo Delete kit, molar side step rails

Shouldn't be metric. I looked up the specs for the oem lug nut and it was SAE Not opposed to buying new. What is another 100.00 after just putting in several grand on new tires, all new suspension, new gear box. Rough Country steering brace etc and etc. I bought one new lug nut and did not like the fit to the center cap. The threads were fine but the outside diameter of the lug nut is bigger and now I believe that is why my center cap came off as the new lug nut didn't fit in the center cap as good as oem. Once I find out after threading by hand that putting lugs on by hand without effort is normal I will either chase the rest as it only takes a minute to do so or go buy an oem set if I find out chasing them is not good to do. I only tried it because they actually sell a professional lug nut chase set that pros use to chase lug nuts and the studs on the hub . My studs are fine as I just put new hubs on when I did the ball joints. Could have traded this off on a new truck but I really like this mega cab for camping and felt it was worth putting new front end on to get rid of death wobble and wander. It rides like new now.

You should NOT put Anti-sieze on you studs!!
It changes your torque rates, view examples on youtube.
I did it all my life, and my tire shop started doing it when the threads on my lugs began to stretch/bind, causing me to replace all the lugs and studs on my truck.
The acorn nuts began to crush, and the wheel holes began to wallow out, requiring my wheels to be replaced.

On average anti seize requires a reduction of 40-50% of torque value as the lubricant makes it easier to torque. Whatever product you are using should have information on what to reduce torque amount by.

I don't use anti sieze or anything like wd40 as I don't want to mess with the torque on my wheels. Glad you brought this up

I had the same problem with my 06 1500, the lugs were hard to remove and tight to install by hand. I purchased a thread restorer kit on eBay instead of a normal tap and die. The thread restorers aren't sharp and won't cut into the existing threads like a regular tap or die will. They simply clean out all the debris in the threads. I think I spent about $50 for a tap & die thread restorer kit to clean up the studs and lug nuts. The lugs now spin on easily and hold torque as they should.

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Thanks for the information. I did not realize there is a difference in the sharpness between the two taps. Makes sense.