Tuftruck 1211's??

so I have my truck exactly where I want it, sorta.

I have Bilstein 5100 fronts set to 2.1" using 35" tires which got me 3.125" of lift over OEM.
I have Bilstein 5100 rears which give an extra inch of travel I believe but no lift and I'm using a 0.75" spacer on 35's which gave me 1.625" of lift.

The issue is towing of course. With only 1.5" of rake now vs the 3" of OEM and the soft OEM springs, I have a ton of squat. I keep seeing mixed reviews on the 1211's. Some say OEM height or close to it while others say 2" lift. Now Turtruck says the 1211's should be OEM height and 50% stiffer. If people are getting lift, then I'm guessing they got sent the 1223 by mistake as those are also 50% stiffer but say they'll lift the truck 2-4". Only way I see the 1211's working by being stiffer and maintain OEM height is they have to be way shorter before install vs OEM. Am I correct?

First off, I would recommend you call TufTruck. Explain your needs adn usage and they can give you advice. That is what I did and I love my springs.

here is a synopsis of what i gleaned from my phone call.


TTC-1210 - Perfect OEM replacement coils. Essentially stock height, (may notice a 1/2 inch loss but most do not) Will not change ride characteristics whatsoever. When running light, never know the truck had anything other than OEM coils. Will handle 25% more load (roughly 450lbs) than OEM Springs.









TTC-1211 - 50% stronger than OEM Spring. will handle 900lbs more weight than OEM and is exact same height.
This spring has a constant rate of compression. not like OEM, IT is stiffer though out the spings range.



NOTE: When I installed these springs. I noticed they are actually about 1/2inch shorter than OEM. However, once on the truck, I gained some rear end height. I assume this was due to my A.R.E. Topper weight and the weaker OEM springs being compressed "more" because of said topper weight.

Those who are used to 3/4 or 1 ton trucks will prefer this spring. Will feel more natural, to them. Other words, the truck will now handle weight much more like former 3/4 ton and up truck owners would expect.

Ride will suffer, though I cannot really tell, when unloaded, versus OEM, but will still provide a very nice ride. Only thing I noticed, vs OEM, was with the OEM springs, my truck would seem rolly polly Olly, at times, truck never feels that way, now.









TTC-1223 - 50% more carrying capacity than OEM rear springs. Roughly 900lbs.



Guy said he designed this spring for trucks that are CONSTANTLY under a load.
Recommended minimum CONSTANT load weight of 600lbs.
If not loaded, very rough ride and the springs will raise your trucks rear end by 2-4 inches.











TTC-1223V - 99% of folks are going to want this spring. 50% more load capability (roughly 900lbs) than OEM rear springs. 1/2 inch shorter than OEM but most will not notice. Can be used with Bilstein 5100 on rear.



Variable rate coil, so when not loaded, rides wonderfully. Re read that part - - Re Read that VARIABLE RATE COIL

IE: Top part of the spring will behave much like OEM. However, since it is variable rate spring, it will stiffen up, as more weight is added. Less sag than OEM and even the TTC-1210, same load. Minor loads will still sag though. that's how the spring keeps the super nice ride characteristics. However, as weight is added, spring really begins to show its worth.

Coming from 15 yrs with my 1999 2500 Dodge and many, many years driving in my 1977 F-250, I went with the 12211 and could not be happier.
Truck still rides like a Lincoln, to me. Other seem to prefer the 1223V. Good Luck!!

Thanks.

The site says the 1223v is 35% stiffer when loaded. They're telling you otherwise?

I have the 1223v and wish I'd gone with the 1211. Mine rides great but still squats more than I'd like when the travel trailer is connected. Will be upgrading soon, before camping season gets going.

My 1211s gave me no lift at all.

I already bought the 1211's before the post was made. Just clarifying the lift or no lift. Sounds like I'll be happy towing and hauling anything now.

Synolimit said:

Thanks.

The site says the 1223v is 35% stiffer when loaded. They're telling you otherwise?

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Yes, must be typo. The site you are referring to is not actually the manufacturers site but a resellers site, I imagine.

Manufacturer is in Canada. Site i got that 35% from in Ney York or somewhere out east, if I remeber, been 3 yrs so memory is spotty.

billyw said:

I have the 1223v and wish I'd gone with the 1211. Mine rides great but still squats more than I'd like when the travel trailer is connected. Will be upgrading soon, before camping season gets going.

Click to expand...

That is because the 1223V is variable rate of compression. Top part of spring is darn near exactly like OEM. so light weights of 500lbs and less will produce same OEM sag. It;s when you start to add more than 350-500lbs that the variable rate kicks in and you begin to get the same rate as the 1211.

Just having my 150llb kid jump in the truck, the truck sagged almost 2inches. If I am remembering correctly. I had it all wrote down somewhere, probably out in teh truck still. WIll try to find it, when i go for a smoke, if remember.
My biggest gripe was with the Lund boat hooked up, I would get flashed account of my stock headlights being up to high and blinding oncoming traffic. and teh Lund is not that heavy. thinking the tongue is only 250lbs, if that.

Now, with my 1211 springs, I am running the H9 to H11 Headlight bulb upgrade and never get flashed. FOr those who are unawares, the H9 to H11 upgrade allows me to use a high beam bulb, in the low beam socket. My lowbeams are now brighter than the OEM high beams were, stock. of course I also upgraded my high beams too.

Synolimit said:

I already bought the 1211's before the post was made. Just clarifying the lift or no lift. Sounds like I'll be happy towing and hauling anything now.

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You will probably get no lift, whatsoever, from 1211's. Remember I got a heavy A.R.E. Topper on my truck. So the wimpy OEM springs sagged pretty good, just with the toppers weight. The new 1211 shrugged that weight off, hence "MY" slight height increase.

All this info in here on numbers and weight distribution etc, we talking long highway trips when towing heavy and what should or shouldn't be done? What about just moving stuff around town if you're at or over max? I know nothing really of towing except I've got 10ply 35x12.5x17 tires. So I see the load ratings of the tires is a lot larger than OEM, like 2600lbs vs 3200lbs. But I thought someone here said larger tires will hurt since it's a larger diameter rotation adding stress? To the motor and tranny right? As for the load I've got 50% stronger springs coming vs the sagging OEM. I've got the factory brake controller. And Trailers I'm viewing are around 8000-10000lbs dry but I'll only need to move it for normal roads around town. rear is 3.92. Thoughts?

Synolimit said:

I already bought the 1211's before the post was made. Just clarifying the lift or no lift. Sounds like I'll be happy towing and hauling anything now.

Click to expand...

Keep the spacer in the rear with them. They give zero lift whatsoever

Got it.

Synolimit said:

All this info in here on numbers and weight distribution etc, we talking long highway trips when towing heavy and what should or shouldn't be done? What about just moving stuff around town if you're at or over max? I know nothing really of towing except I've got 10ply 35x12.5x17 tires. So I see the load ratings of the tires is a lot larger than OEM, like 2600lbs vs 3200lbs. But I thought someone here said larger tires will hurt since it's a larger diameter rotation adding stress? To the motor and tranny right? As for the load I've got 50% stronger springs coming vs the sagging OEM. I've got the factory brake controller. And Trailers I'm viewing are around 8000-10000lbs dry but I'll only need to move it for normal roads around town. rear is 3.92. Thoughts?

Click to expand...

Mechanically, the limiting factor is the axle. For my truck, as equiped from the factory, 10k towing is within limits. even then, I would want a WD hitch and quality sway bar, as well 1211, better tires, better shocks, and keep my payload as low as possible.

long haul or short is not the issue. the issue is sway. Stopping ability. Overheating brakes and other issues that araise.
long haul ro short the truck and trailer can and most definitely will experience the same issues. Its just when hauling over distance, the liikelyhood of experiencing an issue increases as teh miles increase.

I can say, from experience, something WILL happen, eventually.
When it does, it is best not to have your truck and your own experience be at their maximum limits.
When over ability to deal with the situation, Equipment or experience, is when bad goes to worst, darn quick.

Every9one has their own "RULE"
My own "RULE" is tongue weight should be 15% of trailer weight or less but never less than 7%
Ttowed rig should not be more than 75% of trucks rating.

Have I broken those rules? Yes.
It is my experiences from breaking the rules that has helped me create them.
Will still break the rules, ever again? Probably, in emergency or great need but I will be only one in the truck and I prefer not to break them, at all.


Good Luck and if you got a question,we will try to answer it

thats what makes this forum so great.

Sounds like ill be fine then as i have the 1211’s, tires and shocks. Soon the hitch and ill see about the sway. When i say around town i mean like side streets. 35-45mph once a month if that just to dump the *******. Cant see much happening to the brakes or sway or anything as im not going fast enough. I have the oem brake controller too. Only plan to own the trailer 5-6 months then sell it so best case i tow from dealer to lot then back to dealer to sell.

I got about 3/8 inch of lift in rear with the 1211's. Never went 1223v's due to being shorter than stock and being anti spacer. I tend to have a bunch of stuff in my ram boxes that doesn't help and would suck up the first bit of the variable rate coil that is the selling feature of the 1223v. 1211s squat way less with a load than stock.
http://www.ramforum.com/threads/1211-vs-1223v.98982/

its probably negligible lift now unloaded after about a year of use.
http://www.ramforum.com/media/albums/ttc-1211-bilstein-5100.3771/

yes the 1211s are shorter than stock unloaded.

Its also worth noting, if you run stock shocks up front, they will seem much softer with the stiffer rear.

So I'm looking at the 2018 Keystone 33MLS or another next week. States gross weight of 10,500lbs and 2500lbs cargo. So should be 8000 dry but they are saying 8075 dry with 1110 tongue weight. I just bought a 17,000lbs hitch with 1700lbs tongue and a 12,000lbs ball (like hot dog package and hot dog buns, why they different?? Idk). Currently my hitch is sitting at 19.75". Shoulda measured the Keystone but I forgot but I'm installing the 1211's tomorrow so hitch height might change.

1110 tongue is going to make staying within payload difficult. WHilenew springs, tires, shocks will definitely increae the trucks overall abilities, payload and other numbers do not change unless truck is re rated by the state. Just an FYI.

you should be good to go with just a spring upgrade.

Ok cool. Like i said, not driving xcountry and we may have found a place that we can stay where we can run a hose to empty the ******* so I seriously may only tow it from the dealer and then back to the dealer when we sell it in six months.

My hitch went up 3/8 " with the 1211 for reference.

If this is really a one time move, why don't you get them to throw in delivery and save yourself the headache.

Just did the install.

Before
D 39 3/4
P 39 1/2
Hitch 19 3/4

After
D 40
P 40
Hitch 20 1/4

There’s definitely less squat now with just me standing on the hitch and im light! It was maybe 1-2” before and now only 1/2”.


Cardhu im building a house and tow a race car. Im tired of my bed squating several inches with loads and now i can tow my car hauler better. This summer im going to be making a lot of runs to hardware stores etc.