Synthetic Oil

Rampant · May 23, 2018

U&A said:
Seriously if it doesn’t come off just use a cut off wheel

I will do that or plasma cutter if need be, but I'm going to exhaust all non-destructive methods first. I'd rather not have to damage and/or replace the latch if possible. Not much room in there.

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Hemi395 · May 23, 2018

Not according to Ford [emoji23]

U&A · May 23, 2018

Rampant said:
I will do that or plasma cutter if need be, but I'm going to exhaust all non-destructive methods first. I'd rather not have to damage and/or replace the latch if possible. Not much room in there.

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Just thinking.

Flip the lock out so it’s perpendicular to the door (sticking straight out)... take a rope and wrap it around a lock a couple times so it keeps it from flipping back-and-forth and tie a knot on it so the lock is permanently sticking out then cut it off with a cut off wheel right down the middle of the lock.

It’s easy to say because I’m not there but its working great in my head right now!! In fact i just got it off.

Yup it worked.

Rampant · May 23, 2018

69GWC said:
.556

It's in the rv storage lot on base... I don't think that would go over very well lol

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Rampant · May 23, 2018

tjfdesmo said:
Maybe CLR? I have had some luck soaking correded stuff in regular old glycol coolant, also. Last resort before the blue wrench migh be something highly caustic, which will eat aluminum like alka seltzer.

Great suggestions... thanks. I may try a couple if the current ones don't work. I may also try a little heat too... just a propane torch, nothing crazy.

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Rampant · May 23, 2018

U&A said:
Just thinking.

Flip the lock out so it’s perpendicular to the door (sticking straight out)... take a rope and wrap it around a lock a couple times so it keeps it from flipping back-and-forth and tie a knot on it so the lock is permanently sticking out then cut it off with a cut off wheel right down the middle of the lock.

It’s easy to say because I’m not there but its working great in my head right now!! In fact i just got it off.

Yup it worked.

Haha... if it gets to that point, I will drag the plasma cutter out and hang on to the lock with a vise grip. Already played that one in my head too.

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AFMoulton · May 23, 2018

I was going to say Blue Tipped wrench......but I’m late to the party

2018 2500 6.4 4x4 4.10 Amsoil SS 0w-40
2016 Durango 5.7 AWD 3.07 Amsoil SS 5W-30

smiley · May 23, 2018

Try baking soda tooth paste and vinegar use an old tooth brush after soaking.

Ramnewbie · May 23, 2018

I'm surprised you didn't have it soaked up with Amsoil heavy duty metal protector. That's what I used to use on mine, a little stiff slow operation in the winter but never had corrosion problems.

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Rampant · May 23, 2018

Ramnewbie said:
I'm surprised you didn't have it soaked up with Amsoil heavy duty metal protector. That's what I used to use on mine, a little stiff slow operation in the winter but never had corrosion problems.

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I should have and will from now on for sure. Had I known I'd have to drive 30 miles through a salt mine, I would have. Lesson learned.

Well, I do think the innards are aluminum. Def not stainless and not ferrous. I used a small pickup magnet on it.

I tried PB, liquid wrench PO, Amsoil MP, and finally the little blue wrench. Still can't even get the key in past 1/4 of the way. I soaked it with all those and wrapped it with a rag. I'll let it sit over night and see what happens.

I do have a set of 36" bolt cutters but I don't think I can get them in there. At this point, I'm thinking the plasma cutter will do the least damage because it is recessed, so I can get behind it and direct the plasma outward and away from the door. I may resort to that.

Thanks for all the suggestions!

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AFMoulton · May 23, 2018

Have some one video that **** if you do it! I wanna watch!

2018 2500 6.4 4x4 4.10 Amsoil SS 0w-40
2016 Durango 5.7 AWD 3.07 Amsoil SS 5W-30

Fitz-0518 · May 23, 2018

Found this survey surprising. M1 in first place. Must be a reason. I guess PUP is in others.

U&A · May 23, 2018

Fitz87gn said:
Found this survey surprising. M1 in first place. Must be a reason. I guess PUP is in others.

Mobil one is on the shelf of basically every oil supplier in the US. The have the market pinned down.

Thats why. Name recognition. Yes its still good oil. Great...? No.

You should hang around more. This thread is informative many ways

R.L.K. · May 23, 2018

Rampant said:
I should have and will from now on for sure. Had I known I'd have to drive 30 miles through a salt mine, I would have. Lesson learned.

Well, I do think the innards are aluminum. Def not stainless and not ferrous. I used a small pickup magnet on it.

I tried PB, liquid wrench PO, Amsoil MP, and finally the little blue wrench. Still can't even get the key in past 1/4 of the way. I soaked it with all those and wrapped it with a rag. I'll let it sit over night and see what happens.

I do have a set of 36" bolt cutters but I don't think I can get them in there. At this point, I'm thinking the plasma cutter will do the least damage because it is recessed, so I can get behind it and direct the plasma outward and away from the door. I may resort to that.

Thanks for all the suggestions!

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Did you try heat ?
Maybe a heatgun in an attempt to expand the internal parts and melt the salt deposits inside , may take a few attempts . Once cool enough to touch then try water & vinegar.

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Hemi395 · May 23, 2018

I think you should post those pics on a Ford forum

Ramnewbie · May 23, 2018

I think the biggest falicy is the olm. Conventional/synthetic, good, better,best, I think the best thing any of us can do is change oil regularly, 3000 miles conventional, 5/6 thousand sythetic. No substitute for clean oil. The message on the olm instead of saying oil change required should say change you're oil stupid.

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Fitz-0518 · May 23, 2018

U&A said:
Mobil one is on the shelf of basically every oil supplier in the US. The have the market pinned down.

Thats why. Name recognition. Yes its still good oil. Great...? No.

You should hang around more. This thread is informative many ways

Except one. How to factually determine which of the top high end synthetic oils reduce wear, dissipate heat and protect rotating parts at start up. Respect the chemist and engineers who take the time to explain oil shear, drop point etc. I agree, this forum will eventually get those who want to know, our answer.

huntergreen · May 23, 2018

Rampant said:
Great suggestions... thanks. I may try a couple if the current ones don't work. I may also try a little heat too... just a propane torch, nothing crazy.

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.

Might try graphite.

GottaBeKD · May 23, 2018

Not sure if anyone suggested pressure washer with the finest nozzle attachment.

Worked in my head so your mileage may vary

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Ramnewbie · May 23, 2018

Rampant said:
I should have and will from now on for sure. Had I known I'd have to drive 30 miles through a salt mine, I would have. Lesson learned.

Well, I do think the innards are aluminum. Def not stainless and not ferrous. I used a small pickup magnet on it.

I tried PB, liquid wrench PO, Amsoil MP, and finally the little blue wrench. Still can't even get the key in past 1/4 of the way. I soaked it with all those and wrapped it with a rag. I'll let it sit over night and see what happens.

I do have a set of 36" bolt cutters but I don't think I can get them in there. At this point, I'm thinking the plasma cutter will do the least damage because it is recessed, so I can get behind it and direct the plasma outward and away from the door. I may resort to that.

Thanks for all the suggestions!

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The only one I can think of that you haven't tried is sea foam deep creep. Have heard it's really good stuff but never used it myself.

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Synthetic Oil

Oil of Choice

Castrol Syntec/Edge

Royal Purple

AMSOil

Valvoline Synpower

Mobil 1

Other

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