The main cause for the thermostat to fail is from debris. Like what you see in the bottom of the oil pan. I have 131k on mine but have changed the fluid every 30k and never had an issue.
131k on mine as well. Just change the fluid and filters about every 30k with redline. I had all kinds of loud clunky shifting when I got it. After going to redline it's all gone
Id say you need to change the heater core. They can get gunked up enough that your not going to flush it out. The driver's heat comes from the bottom of the core and passenger is the top. It's not just one big loop in the core. It's a bunch of parallel lines. As the bottom plugs up it still...
That had been a problem in the past. It would be worse in cold weather and you would feel it right under your feet. They corrected the issue with a newer mount but this was on 14 and 15 models
If you have cab lights it's probably that. Take them off and apply a very thin coat of clear silicone on the bottom of the rubber pad. I've had to do that a couple times. Car washes are hard on those
I'm one of those workers. We have had a $3 raise since 2007. Seeing as how a new truck went from$30k to $70_80k in that time frame would you be ok work that? Change the shock yourself if you want to drive your truck. Really not worth the aggregation is it?
120k. Not much towing but I run the crap out of it at the dunes. Use redline as well and change it about every 30k. It's been solid. Redline made a big difference in shifting.
You will have to order the lines. They are half metal. They send coolant into a cooler for the EGR. It's not really that bad though. What bothers my the most was wanting to clean inside the intake but nothing to really do it with lol. I have found that filling up the radiator on the drivers...
You should consider pulling the intake. Not sure if you can get away without doing it but there are EGR cooler lines under there that are prone to leak. I just did all this so just double check that you get all the clamps on. Might also consider replacing the tank and cap. My cap failed and...
That almost sounds like tires. Cooler weather they are less pliable and more likely that you would feel like a busted radial. Just an idea. I have a similar issue but my driveshaft got in to my cross member and grooved it. It's thrown a couple weights since then so pretty sure I need a new shaft
I'm pretty sure that is normal for the carrier. I can find pictures online just like it. I also thought the same thing about mine when changing fluid but the cuts are machined and there is no metal in the diff out on the magnet. Something grinding like that would make a heck of a noise.
This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.