2011 Ram 1500 cylinder misfire - P0300 P0303 C1242

[SLT617]

I was driving my truck on a road trip a week ago and on the tail end of my trip, I passed a semi going up a hill and my check engine light started flashing. Another hour or two it happened again and the light stayed on. I noticed a few times that it was running a little rough for a few but overall the truck runs completely fine. Ran codes and got a P0303 cylinder 3 misfire.

I seafoamed the gas tank and throttle body and later changed the spark plugs on cylinder 3. Also switched the coil pack from 1st and 3rd cylinder and still got the check engine light along with codes P0300 and C1242. I've been driving it for the past week and I notice that 95% of the time it still runs fine. Sometimes right when I start it up or go up hills the check engine light flashes for a bit andI'll feel a bit of a rough idle but it shortly goes away. I've driven it down the highway for a few long trips and it's acted totally fine, it's just that every once in a while I get this issue.

I took it to a mechanic and they said compression is fine so it must be something internal. I figured it would be a bad lifter/spring and cam anyway but he has to rip it apart in order to fully diagnose. He was saying he'd probably have to put in a new cam and all new lifters/springs/etc for just above $5500. Said we could also get a remanufactured engine in for about $7500.

My Ram has 122,000 miles on it so I'm already past warrantee. I bought it used a while back and the Ram dealer inspected it and said internals were all fine.

I found a used 5.7 hemi for $1,500 a few hours away from me so I might just buy that and get it installed in my truck. If it is just a lifter/spring, should I just have the mechanic replace for only that cylinder instead of everything? Is there something else I can do before getting it ripped apart?

I think I'm going to put in marvel mystery oil as a last ditch effort to fix it. I've changed the oil every 6-8k so I don't think it's gummed up inside. Should I put in a new CPS or TPS? I'd love to hear any other ideas. I'm going to get a second opinion from another mechanic next.

 

[SLT617]

Just picked up my truck from the mechanic. Started rough idling right when I took off. I revved the engine a little bit at a stop light and it idled and ran totally fine after. If it was a bent rod or broken spring, wouldn't it always be bad? Is my lifter just sticking?

 

[MADDOG]

C1242-G SENSOR INPUT SIGNAL PERFORMANCE

This is for a faulty dynamic/yaw rate sensor. It is located underneath the center console if equipped, or if no center console, underneath the passenger seat. You need to make sure the sensor is connected and there is no harness or connector damage. If there is no damage, then replace the sensor.

The P0300/P0303 doesn't seem to have been cleared or corrected properly. I'd disconnect the battery negative post for at least 30 minutes, reconnect it and run the truck.

Let us know how things go.

 

[SLT617]

C1242-G SENSOR INPUT SIGNAL PERFORMANCE

This is for a faulty dynamic/yaw rate sensor. It is located underneath the center console if equipped, or if no center console, underneath the passenger seat. You need to make sure the sensor is connected and there is no harness or connector damage. If there is no damage, then replace the sensor.

The P0300/P0303 doesn't seem to have been cleared or corrected properly. I'd disconnect the battery negative post for at least 30 minutes, reconnect it and run the truck.

Let us know how things go.

what does the dynamic/yaw rate sensor do? The misfire codes have been cleared multiple times by a code reader from the auto parts store but it keeps coming back with that rough idle. Why would removing the neg battery post change the engine? I'll give it a shot though. Going to add the mystery oil in a few and see if that makes a difference.

 

[MADDOG]

The dynamic yaw rate sensor is part of the safety system for vehicle stability.

The P030X code should not be coming back if the proper repair was performed, i.e., removing and replacing a defective component in the ignition chain which includes the spark plug, the wires and/or the coil pack.

The negative battery cable removal would clear the code completely but if it's already been cleared then you still have a misfire issue within the ignition system.

 

[SLT617]

I had the mechanic check it all out. He checked the plugs/coil pack, and injectors. All seemed fine. He cleaned out the throttle and saw some improvement, but noticed the compression in cylinder 3 was still a little low. He took off the valve cover and it looks like it has a bad lifter so I'll need at least a new cam/lifters. Springs were fine. He also wants to check out the transmission while he's down there to make sure it's not wearing out.

Has anyone ever used Powertrain Products Inc for rebuilt engines? They sell remanufactured engines with a 5 year no-fault warranty for about $4000. The mechanic has his own but it costs $5,500 and doesn't have nearly as good as a warrantee.

If I do cam/lifters, are there performance parts that do a better job? Just wondering what the best option is for my truck.

 

[chrism1367]

It's almost sickening how many cam lifter failures I've been reading lately on 2011 hemis, I have a 2013 I really hope I don't have problems I can't afford to replace an engine. Sorry you are dealing with this

 

[Kap1]

What did your mechanic quote you for cam and lifters? Mine quoted me $4k.

I just had dealership replace half lifters, and no cam on my 2013 5.7 70k miles . Morons...

 

[Burla]

Was there any ticking prior? hemi tick? what oils were you using?

 

[SLT617]

So I had two mechanics quote me for about $5500 and they were both pushing me to get a rebuilt engine in it. That would be about $7500. The ram dealer said it might just be a bad lifter and if so, they would just replace the lifters on that side only for about $2500. They told me they'd get back to me once they have the thing ripped apart.

They called me up this morning to let me know that it indeed was a bad cam and it would be $3,800 for a new cam/lifters with a 2 year unlimited mileage warrantee. They also needed to fix the manifold bolts and will change the transmission fluid (It was due so I asked them to do it).

TBH I'm very disappointed. My family has had a lot of ram trucks and this is the first time we've had to replace an engine. I had a jeep cherokee with 285,000 miles and never had to replace the engine/transmission. I thought a newer engine on a new truck would last much longer.

After looking through the forum it's pretty obvious that this is a huge issue with the 5.7. My question is now that it's fixed do I have to worry that the cam will fail again in another 100,000 miles? Do I have to worry about something else going wrong?

Both mechanics also suggested that I trade it in for a Tundra because they never have to fix those.

 

[SLT617]

Was there any ticking prior? hemi tick? what oils were you using?

I had a tick but it was because I had a broken manifold bolt on the passenger's side. I was using 5w20 SuperTech full synthetic oil.

 

[Burla]

Super Tech has no moly, read moly basics.

There was a point where 6 cam/lifter fails in a row where non moly's oils. See synthetic oil thread for more alternative oils that seam to work good for hemi.

 

[U&A]

Guys,


^^^^^^

Dont take Burla’s post lightly.

 

[rwreuter]

Isn't there a thread on here with which oils have Moly?

 

[U&A]

Visit here

http://www.ramforum.com/threads/synthetic-oil.27664/page-1459#post-1625034

 

[Burla]

Just kind of a guide, scroll down molybdenum.

Redline has crazy moly, as well as PUP 0w40.

 

[rwreuter]

Where'd you get the information on the moly content for Redline......Redline isn't include on the guide you linked to?

 

[SLT617]

Geez, it's because I wasn't using the right kind of synthetic oil? I've used SuperTech in all my vehicles and didn't think it made that big of a difference. I guess Mobile 1 Super Synthetic is what I'll use from now on. Kind of surprised quaker state and pennzoil are considered the good ones.

I'm pretty sure the dealer is changing out my oil now. Should I change my oil again in a few hundred miles just to make sure I don't have any more junk in the engine?

Does anyone ever put marvel mystery oil in each oil change? Are there other ways to prevent cam/lifter failure?

 

[R.L.K.]

Wow , this really sucks ...so many lifter and cam issues with low miles on these 5.7L Hemi's ...

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

 

[Burla]

Where'd you get the information on the moly content for Redline......Redline isn't include on the guide you linked to?

I have done two uoas and many guys on the board, redline moly level averages 500ppm these days, used to even be higher. Search uoa or voa and redline.