2015 OEM Back Up Camera - HELP PELASE!!

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AKsBlackRam

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I have a 2015 Ram 1500 Express. I bought the OEM back up camera, and followed the directions as well as you tube videos. I have also been into the dealer and been activated for back up camera.

When I put in reverse, all I get is the blue screen with "Check All Surroundings". I have double checked all connections, as I believe I have followed all correctly. Also, in relation to the positioning of different brackets and harness in the directions as opposed to real life. The power lock works in the tailgate, so I assume the power is good to the camera....true?

My radio had NO wires in the three slots it told me to plug the three wires into that go into the radio (RA2).

Radio and everything else work correctly, so I haven't f'd it up too bad, it just doesn't work!!

Any suggestions???
 

R.L.K.

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Are you sure you plugged into 31 , 32 & 33 ? Double check these 3 wires . Some have misread the C1 connector because the picture in the instructions is a bit confusing . I recommend looking at the back of your RA2 s connector , pin 31 is clearly marked ! This will help you determine if you've got your 3 wires correct in the C1 connector .
If that is found to be correct good job! Now moving up to the connector you populated , the radio side should've been prewired but the other side you populated = make sure the 3 wires by color on the radio side is in line with the same color 3 wires on the other side .
If this is found to be correct move on to the Parkview 10 amp fuse in the PDC it's the fuse that you spliced into the wire from the under side , first make sure the fuse is good ( not blown )
Secondly with your ohm meter make sure the wire you spliced to has continuity with that fuses socket .
The fact that the tailgate lock works has nothing to do with the backup cams power source @ the PDC 10 amp Parkview fuse , the tailgate lock gets its power from a completely diff source .

If that's good then verify your black ground wire has a good 0.__ (zero point something )ohms of resistance to a near by bare metal surface .

Hope this helps !
 

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Oh and make sure in the settings in your radio the backup camera is turned on , also make sure the Active Gridlines are turned on .

Once you get the camera working , if you do not have the Active Gridlines displayed or you do not have the settings option to turn them on or off , then you need to update the software in your radio via uconnects website .
 
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AKsBlackRam

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Fuse -

If this is found to be correct move on to the Parkview 10 amp fuse in the PDC it's the fuse that you spliced into the wire from the under side , first make sure the fuse is good ( not blown )

Could this happen so soon, or from the work done? Perhaps from the negative battery terminal, while disconnected, bends back and taps it's terminal? From the wiring to the PDC?

I am ALMOST positive I populated 31-33, I remember seeing the numbers. Also, I am ALMOST certain the connector with three wires from the radio to the tail of the bundle coming through the firewall is correct.

I plan on double checking tomorrow after work, hopefully if i am not too spent. Thanks!
 
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AKsBlackRam

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Update -

I had reviewed your quoted threads already, prior to even posting. Thank you much!! But that is why I actually had to post, I am desperate! Like I said, I had spent hours of research PRIOR to installing, watched the video several times, so I was pretty confident going in.

I DID update my software, after reading that post. Crossed my fingers, but no luck. However, now up to date, and I know how to do that now! :)

My camera has been activated by dealer, what do you mean "turned on" on the radio? I don't see that setting, but I do see "Active Guidelines" and that is on.

I am learning along the way, I bought a BASIC 1500, and have converted to "Murdered Out" version on my own, but electrical is definitely scary! One faulty move can disable entire car. So please bare with me.

OHM meter = Multi-Meter?

Is that how I check for continuity/resistance?

Thanks again! I'll update profile with Rig's Pics. I'll take pics next time i'm doing the work to further assist on here possibly. :grd:
 

R.L.K.

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Ohm meter / multimeter same same .
With your multimeter in the ohm position ,measure the ohms of resistace from your installed ground wire and another bare metal spot . Should be 0.3 or less . If it's not you need to burnish the mounting surface of your ground.

Buddy it's real easy to get the 3 wires wrong @ the C1 connector and the connector that you populated to the radio .I've seen this being wrong from several people , even from the dealers technicians ...

No the fuse should not be blown from the install , but I've seen one guy that had a blown fuse and a blue screen in reverse . Process of elimination ...

How are you splicing your wires ? Solder & heatshrink or " T " taps ?

If you do not have an option to turn on/off the backup camera , and only the option to turn off the gridlines that's good that means you have the latest software.

Sir I don't mind helping at all , but during the day my time is limited , I'll check back in periodically to see if you've posted up anything .

I can't say enough about how helpful Mpgrimm2 s post #10 and it's references could be .
 
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Mpgrimm2

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Subscribed. Glad to know you are looking at the pictures from post 10 of the camera thread.

If you double check each connector you worked on against the pictures linked in post 10 you may likely find something.

Re check them and take/post pictures so we can see all the wires/colors.

Sent from my LG G4 on Tapatalk.
 
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AKsBlackRam

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PDC Fuse Layout

Is there a PDC / Fuse layout that says which fuse is what? Couldn't wait until i got home, thought I could check fuse and hopefully find problem at work. I did see the layout on the inside of the lid, but nothing that said "parkview" for the 10 amp fuse.
I did look online for diagrams or info, but could not find anything specific.

Should I check ALL 10 amp fuses? i assume there is a certain one for that pin/connector.
 

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I think mine said Parkview on the bottom side of lid ?
 

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If you pull the PDC back up and locate the wire you spliced into , you can follow that wire up to the fuse socket ...
 

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The fuse is listed on the schematic linked in post 10 of the camera install thread. I don't recall it off hand.

It would be worth having it and some of the pictures printed out to aid with your troubleshooting.

Edit: looks like fuse 95 on the schematic

- PN 82214240 (RA2, RA3, RA4 Radios as monitor)
$300 parts/$507 installed at dealership
K6862043 2013-2015 Ram Parkview Cam w RA2 RA3 RA4 Radio Monitor PN 82214240


Here are both the basic factory Backup Camera schematic and the Add-On Kit schematic for the Radio/harness ...
2013+ Factory & OEM Add-On Kit PN 82214240 schematics.png
 
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R.L.K.

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Looking back @ Mpgrimm2 s post # 10 I linked you above I found the old picture of my RED pwr spliced into the PINK & YELLOW wire @ the PDC , assuming your colors are the same as my 2014 Express , this may help.
Also I've posted a pic of a guy who has solved your same issue with the fuse .

35efd57ce8b11fbaca61af3ab2b9613b.jpg

63eb7d14adf775b3c7d4f5893c964b5c.jpg

Hope this helps !
 

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Extra info From Post 21
Ok, I will post more pics. Here is the pic from the splice under the Power Distro Center (PDC). Used an exacto knife to remove the insulation, wrapped the new red wire around the bare wire from the PDC (Note: this wire is the 5th from the right on the top row. The instructions say PK/YT which is pink with a yellow tracer, unfortunately there are 5 there). I used a continuity meter to make sure this wire was the one running to the 10a park view fuse. The instructions say to use the provided crimp to secure the wires then solder them, then to wrap them in the provided heat shrink, however since you don't cut the existing wire there isn't any way to get the heat shrink on there, so I coated it in liquid tape (available at any auto parts store) and wrapped it in electrical tape. Also, installing the crimp correctly requires the Mopar tool, a common pair of pliers works ok.
 

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From Post 26
And for those that make it to the back of the radio connector, I rotated the image from the directions and hopefully will have a picture to add from 70chall440.

NOTE:
If it was pins 1-3 that you swapped with 31 - 33. Here are the colors that are supposed to be there...
Pin # / ID# / Color / Description
1 D75 __ GY __ CAN C (+)
2 D177 _ DB __ CAN IHS (+)
3 R41 __ LB/VT AIRBAG DEPLOYMENT SIGNAL

Hopefully it didn't do anything too bad to the Radio, Can Bus, or BCM.
May try disconnecting the battery for a while, reconnecting, and seeing if it does anything. RLK had his screen go blank, disconnected Battery for 8 hrs, and it came back up.
 

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Mpgrimm2

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From RLK's post 280...

56bbab24559d16cba9f179f48a1db613.jpg

The above photo is the connector the dealer assembled @ the end of the body harness that came through the engine firewall , this connector is plugged into your radio harnes the radio harness only contains three wires ( and is assembled from the factory ) , see below for its photo , the dealer could've easily miswired at the end of the Long body harness , some guys here have done this already . Make double sure the above photo of my connector looks exactly like yours ( use the top of the connector / the lock as a reference ) if miswired here it could be a simple fix of moving wires where they are supposed to be and instant camera OR they could have damaged your radio and or camera .

Please post photos of the above connector and the BACKSIDE of you C1 Radio connector and the tailgate end of the long body harness connector .

7241d5e36f2b54c333e712977fab4046.jpg

Below is my tailgate end of the long body harness for reference.

8878e4ecbced609374395ddf055ae3de.jpg

aeda2e40be0a402355a13face2e44f29.jpg

eb33ae1957ec1c79011883f65afc6496.jpg

Another photo of the radio harness connected to the body harness
c4f4cf8195f1efb532599d38d86388bf.jpg

I also attached the i550 Tailgate picture before transferring the lock wires.
 

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That covers most of everything you need to visually check and possibly ohm out with the multimeter. I also added download links to my earlier post with the schematic and kit install directions. Post up pictures of your install so we can all verify it against what was just posted by RLK and myself.
 
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AKsBlackRam

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My Update - First Check

First of all, SHOUT OUT to you guys for helping me and taking time to post and repost pics! #RLK and #MPGRIMM2! Again, your patience and willingness to help is nice, I would have been annoyed posting same old things. Forum can be overwhelming with posts - helpful and chatter. Again, I DID try first, and do diligence on my own research.

Your posts were helpful even prior to posting. And even more so after, with the more updated pics and close ups. WAY more helpful and better than Mopar Manual, (Obvi) and Youtube posters.

I am upset, with myself, and proud, I think, at what I have done to the Rig so far. I have done all mods, #MurderedOut, more pics to come! I have learned a lot along the way.

WAY BACK on Sat when I completed install initially, I read about the fuse, but never checked thinking I could;t have blown it, or that it would have been blown. Come Sunday, I dismantled my dash again, PDC, Tailgate, and even the BCM, (EFF THAT THING AND ITS LOCATION, or just my big white collar hands), I double checked all wiring, connections, and even updated Connect. :waytogo::waytogo::waytogo::waytogo::waytogo::waytogo:

Still didn't check actual fuse though. Fast forward to today, go out to car at recess and look at fuse box, too quickly, and don't see "parkview". After further review and location, thanks to you guys, I did locate. However, auto parts store closed, too late, and of course, the fuse IS blown. The fuses I have are all big from Exploder, not mini of course.

So it LOOKS as if that is the problem, fingers crossed. I will have to wait until after work again and hit the auto parts store on the way home. Will prob. pick up assorted kit for truck anyway, prob. good to have in roadside kit.

IF it does work, then all my wiring and what not was correct the first time. I used T-Taps to tap into wires that needed splicing, especially BCM since it is so limited for space and length. However, that was after already cutting the pink/yellow in the PDC, so I had to butt connect that. Of course, I don't have any wire! lol. Ugh.

Story of my Trucks Mods...always longer, harder, and more money than they say. Lol....but I'm learning for the next truck later this year. #AspenMurder

Side note, I got the dealer to do activation at half price b/c Service Rep was POS, and the Service Manager was licking my D by the time I was outta there. Rotated tires, and did some other fish on the house. Also got a sick Black Ram hoodie outta of it! Hahah.

Hopefully, I will close this thread tomorrow afternoon. Cheers!:favorites13::favorites13::favorites13:
 

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Glad to hear you found the blown fuse ! If the fuse doesn't resolve your issue then I'd check in the following order :
#1 wires @the radios C1

#2 proper location of wires @ the populated connector to the radio harness under the dash.

#3 the but splice for power ( I'd solder thisone

Only reason to ever consider the T tap on purple wire @ BCM s C5 is if you do not have the Active Gridlines, for this is all it controls .

In the future if your camera goes out , go to the fuse first and the remove the button splice and solder that wire !

I think you'll be fine with a new fuse , if so GREAT JOB & WELL DONE ON YOUR PART !
 

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Reposting this from the meme thread...
f1a58c64f5ceaa848c57cd7842534597.jpg

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