2nd Gen Brake Issue - Weak Pedal

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

ramgod

Junior Member
Joined
Jul 25, 2017
Posts
10
Reaction score
0
Ram Year
2001
Engine
8.0 v10
Hi there, I am having a issue with my 2001 RAM. I have changed brakes most of my life, familiar enough that I manage to get it done, and I am working my way through a issue during a recent brake upgrade.

Until the other day my brakes were working. I had poor pads on front, and the rotors were not the best. I decided to get a set of power stop slotted drilled rotors from Rock Auto, and a set of high performance pads, since I do mountains all the time. I figured it would be a quick job, well not really.

I decide to put in two new calipers from Napa, and during the install they were set up on the spring housing, hoses did not get twisted etc.

So I put them in, and bled them, and all seemed good, but no pedal, I can stop a little, but it is really far down to the floor to get stopped.

During the bleeding process, I had my partner pump and I noticed she was basically hitting the floor on bleed, and she thinking she was helping, had leg extended and really forced it down, well what can I say.

So, I then went to bleed the rears, to make sure no air, and they were a mess. I thought I would put on a new master cylinder, since for $50 it is great insurance, cause I am going down mountains with a cargo and trailer on, so did that first. This made no difference.

So I went to put new wheel cylinders on rear, cause they were badly rusted, and could not open up bleeders, and well of course ended up with a broken line. End of story, got them back together, new springs on the passenger and drivers drum now, fixed line, no other apparent leaks.

Everything seemed to bleed fine, I use a self bleeder bottle but she actually pumped the pedal. No apparent air, and I took a full bottle out of each side on this bleed.

This did not correct the problem, in any way.

So my attention is turning to the Booster, and check valve. Vacuum is there at the booster, when I remove the check valve it hisses. When I press 4 times on the pedal, it is rock hard. Then when I start the engine, it goes right down to floor then. I took of the check valve and checked for vacuum while running, and all is good.

Now I noticed that there might be a new, sort of sucking noise when I press the pedal down now, and I do not think it was there prior to this.

So tomorrow I will go to the junk yard, and grab a booster and a check valve to test, but I am kind of at a loss what to check next.

The only thing I can think of, is that there is a mechanism or a abs function I am not aware of. I did not think I had abs, never felt it pulsate, but I do see a box next to the proportioning valve in front, and not sure what that is yet.

As a note I bled everything again, went to all four tires, and no change.

So right now, first of all, maybe I am bleeding wrong, and have gone senile. Second, maybe there is something else to bleed and I have abs and am not aware, which would surprise me. However I do have a proportioning block, And finally, I think it is check valve or booster related.

So if anyone has any idea, can you tell me anything else I can check, to save me the hassle of switching out the booster.

I am honestly surprised at this whole thing, I can only assume that it happened during the first bleed.
 

dudeman2009

Senior Member
Joined
Feb 9, 2016
Posts
1,562
Reaction score
208
Location
Arizona
Ram Year
2001 1500 Sport with enough electrical modifications to make my brain hurt
Engine
Magnum 360
If it were the brake booster you'd have a hard pedal all the time. Or a constant hissing. Since the pedal is going to the floor is not likely the booster is bad, at least not yet. First thing is to inspect the rubber lines, when those get old they stretch out under pressure and can give a soft or spongy pedal.

In short ,something is compressing that shouldn't be. When you were bleeding the brakes manually, and wasn't letting up on the pedal before you closed the bleeder right?

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
 
OP
OP
R

ramgod

Junior Member
Joined
Jul 25, 2017
Posts
10
Reaction score
0
Ram Year
2001
Engine
8.0 v10
and wasn't letting up on the pedal before you closed the bleeder right?

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

Correct, she held it down until I closed it off, plus the bottle has a hose to keep suction in it.
 

MADDOG

Not RamForum Staff
Supporting Member
Military
Joined
Dec 26, 2011
Posts
14,443
Reaction score
9,877
Location
Arizona
I wonder if the booster diaphragm has given up.
 
OP
OP
R

ramgod

Junior Member
Joined
Jul 25, 2017
Posts
10
Reaction score
0
Ram Year
2001
Engine
8.0 v10
I wonder if the booster diaphragm has given up.

I did a complete bleed a third time, and this time, I have more pedal, and can actually drive the truck. The first press is not enough to really get braking, but the second one is better, and it is keeping the pedal pump when engine running now and then almost intermittent.

This truck has never really had a high pedal. My other ram, was much better, and had a high firm pedal, and 3 inches of travel was a complete activation. This one has been about 4 - 5 inches of travel to eve get it to brake, so I am still suspicious that there is something in the booster causing this, it sure would not be like this when new.
 

dudeman2009

Senior Member
Joined
Feb 9, 2016
Posts
1,562
Reaction score
208
Location
Arizona
Ram Year
2001 1500 Sport with enough electrical modifications to make my brain hurt
Engine
Magnum 360
A brake booster going bad with either cause slow return or a very hard pedal. If you have a legal that always goes to the floor and want to test the brake booster. Let the truck idle for a minute then shut the truck off. Wait one minute then depress the pedal, you should get at least one full application. If you do get at least one full application, then you need to move on off to what is compressing. Brake fluid is not compressible, pads and rotors cannot be compressed, steel lines don't expand under pressure. The pedal only goes down because something is moving with it. The only thing left if you've replaced the master cylinder is the rubber brake lines. They will expand

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
 

Yeret

The Village Drunk
Joined
Oct 2, 2014
Posts
938
Reaction score
178
Location
Under the hood fixing/breaking something.
Ram Year
1999
Engine
5.9 Magnum
I've read that organic pads actually can compress a smidge under pressure which can yield an oh so slightly squishy pedal feel. Granted, not nearly as much as as the OP is having but it's one reason why I'm not a fan of organics. Most vehicles I've ever driven had organic pads and the brakes worked fine but the pedal had a slight sponginess to it. My Ram has semi metallics and the pedal has a very firm feel and response.

I second dudeman in regards to the brake hoses. Those can do some stupid stuff when they start getting old. My original driver side one actually collapsed in one of the bends to the point where it blocked fluid pressure causing my truck to pull hard right when braking. Eventually, it somehow "trapped" fluid pressure in the caliper and literally smoked the rotor. When I pulled into the parts store parking lot, having nearly gagged on burning brake smell, I got out of the truck and there was literally a plume of smoke coming from the wheel. Talk about a "holy ****" moment.

Got two new hoses, went home and replaced the driver side one and then thunder started. Removed the passenger side one and then lightning started firing off. I very quickly got the new one installed and got inside to crack a beer literally 5 minutes before it started to pour rain. Man, what a day.
 
Last edited:

Max78

Senior Member
Joined
Jul 20, 2016
Posts
111
Reaction score
14
Location
AZ
Ram Year
1998
Engine
Magnum 5.9
Did you have the fresh rotors turned, or did you just wipe the oil off and call it good?


What brand pads did you purchase? There are different materials for different reasons, some of the ceramic pads have great life with little to no dust at the expense of slightly less stopping ability, and I have seen these far to often classified as "high-performance".


I just ordered some Power Stop Carbon Ceramic pads and looking to install them this weekend.


If your brakes were working better before the pads and rotors, I would strongly recommend having the rotors turned and maybe try some fresh cheepie pads just to rule out you didn't get a bad set of pads.


I have heard of people ordering quality name brand pads on ebay only to have them turn out to be utter garbage because they recieved a knock off. Not saying you got knock offs, but I have been shipped more than a few "closeout" items that come in a plane white box from RockAuto, and that makes me wary sometimes.
 

dudeman2009

Senior Member
Joined
Feb 9, 2016
Posts
1,562
Reaction score
208
Location
Arizona
Ram Year
2001 1500 Sport with enough electrical modifications to make my brain hurt
Engine
Magnum 360
I agree with max on everything except turning new rotors. Turning a rotor is only to get rid of imperfections that have arisen from use and dirt. New rotors are smooth as they should be, contrary to some schools of thought, you do not need a slightly rough surface to brake, quite the opposite. The rougher the surface, the faster the pads will wear and in turn, the rotors. A smooth surface provides a consistent baking surface that the pad can grab. Think of it like your hand on glass, it can be perfectly smooth and your hand will stick like glue with the right pressure, but right it up and all you'll do is cut up your hand.

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
 
OP
OP
R

ramgod

Junior Member
Joined
Jul 25, 2017
Posts
10
Reaction score
0
Ram Year
2001
Engine
8.0 v10
A brake booster going bad with either cause slow return or a very hard pedal. If you have a legal that always goes to the floor and want to test the brake booster. Let the truck idle for a minute then shut the truck off. Wait one minute then depress the pedal, you should get at least one full application. If you do get at least one full application, then you need to move on off to what is compressing. Brake fluid is not compressible, pads and rotors cannot be compressed, steel lines don't expand under pressure. The pedal only goes down because something is moving with it. The only thing left if you've replaced the master cylinder is the rubber brake lines. They will expand

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

I got a couple of lines from the local junk yard, to test this, I will swap them out and see if different.

Yesterday I took out the rear load height proportioning valve, which was a rusted mess anyway. I am fully loaded all the time, so put in a rubber hose from Napa, with replacement block.

This did not make too big of a difference. For the fifth time I bled the brakes all around with a helper, and did 10 full pumps and release, and on Passenger Rear took 15 full pumps.

I after last two bleeds have more pedal, but if vehicle is running not on first pump. My other ram was right there, you hit the pedal and one or two inches fully engaged. I need to go 4 inches on this one, and first pump has hardly anything, almost like feather weight. I think this has been kind of like this since I got the truck, but not as bad.

And I notice that while truck running, I can pump quickly and maintain the pressure and the pedal will only be 2 inches down, but if I slow down the pumping, then it falls more.

So I think I will replace the booster, cause we are getting down to things that can cause this. I even put the shoes right to the drums in case the proportioning valve was not sensing the rear drums.

Now, as a note, my helper says, on the front brakes she had a much harder pedal to push. So after we pumped it up, say 5 strokes, and her holding the pressure, I opened the bleeder, and it went to floor. On that process as pedal was relased she said it was smooth on rear brakes. But on front brakes she had to give it more of a push, and that it was much harder to put the fluid through. So I was wondering does that maybe mean the proportioning vale is not operating correctly on front.
 
OP
OP
R

ramgod

Junior Member
Joined
Jul 25, 2017
Posts
10
Reaction score
0
Ram Year
2001
Engine
8.0 v10
I just ordered some Power Stop Carbon Ceramic pads and looking to install them this weekend.
.

I went with the best Power Stop Rotors and pad set they have.

POWER STOP Z36821 (Heavy Duty (Long Life, Truck & Tow)) Truck & Tow Severe Duty

POWER STOP AR8746XPR (Performance (Improved Stopping Power)) Extreme Performance Drilled and Slotted
 

Yeret

The Village Drunk
Joined
Oct 2, 2014
Posts
938
Reaction score
178
Location
Under the hood fixing/breaking something.
Ram Year
1999
Engine
5.9 Magnum
Have you been checking your brake fluid since the job? Pretty easy way to determine if you have a leak somewhere. Leaks, of course = crappy stopping power.

Also, I've never really understood how drilled and slotted rotors are supposed to improve stopping power. The holes can help with heat dissipation which will reduce brake fade which is helpful if you're constantly mashing the brakes (racing) or riding them (rolling downhill while towing). But the holes reduce the surface area that the pads have to grab on to and result in less friction which results in less stopping power.

And the slots are supposed to help with "cleaning?" I think I read that they have an "edge" which scrapes dust off from the pad. Problem here is that's gonna tear up your pads much faster.

Maybe I'm totally wrong but I always felt drilled and slotted rotors were one of those things Honda guys put on their cars along with bomb-canned calipers to give their car a more "****" appearance.
 
Last edited:
OP
OP
R

ramgod

Junior Member
Joined
Jul 25, 2017
Posts
10
Reaction score
0
Ram Year
2001
Engine
8.0 v10
Have you been checking your brake fluid since the job? Pretty easy way to determine if you have a leak somewhere. Leaks, of course = crappy stopping power.

Also, I've never really understood how drilled and slotted rotors are supposed to improve stopping power. The holes can help with heat dissipation which will reduce brake fade which is helpful if you're constantly mashing the brakes (racing) or riding them (rolling downhill while towing). But the holes reduce the surface area that the pads have to grab on to and result in less friction which results in less stopping power.

And the slots are supposed to help with "cleaning?" I think I read that they have an "edge" which scrapes dust off from the pad. Problem here is that's gonna tear up your pads much faster.

Maybe I'm totally wrong but I always felt drilled and slotted rotors were one of those things Honda guys put on their cars along with bomb-canned calipers to give their car a more "****" appearance.

Well, to put it this way, take a dodge ram 2500, go to 80% of your GVR, ut on a 5x8 Cargo trailer full, then go to a mountain at 10,000 feet or more higher, then take a highway, that goes over that mountain, and has a constant 23 minute decent at 60 miles and hour and see how hot your brakes are when you hit the bottom. That is why I am doing all this brake work, cause it is scary.
 

dudeman2009

Senior Member
Joined
Feb 9, 2016
Posts
1,562
Reaction score
208
Location
Arizona
Ram Year
2001 1500 Sport with enough electrical modifications to make my brain hurt
Engine
Magnum 360
Well, to put it this way, take a dodge ram 2500, go to 80% of your GVR, ut on a 5x8 Cargo trailer full, then go to a mountain at 10,000 feet or more higher, then take a highway, that goes over that mountain, and has a constant 23 minute decent at 60 miles and hour and see how hot your brakes are when you hit the bottom. That is why I am doing all this brake work, cause it is scary.
He wasn't questioning why you're doing the brakes. No one on here who comments regularly will question why someone wants their brakes to work.

What he is saying, why did you put drilled and slotted rotors on your truck? Even if all I did was drive through Tennessee and Kentucky mountains at max weight I wouldn't put those on there. They crack way too easily under heat unless you get race rotors, but then you lose stopping power when their cool. I haul very heavy loads (you can call me out on it, I know it's wrong) but I pull 8k regularly with my 1500 and 10-12k every couple weekends. I put autozone premium rotors and semi met pads on my truck

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
 
OP
OP
R

ramgod

Junior Member
Joined
Jul 25, 2017
Posts
10
Reaction score
0
Ram Year
2001
Engine
8.0 v10
He wasn't questioning why you're doing the brakes. No one on here who comments regularly will question why someone wants their brakes to work.

What he is saying, why did you put drilled and slotted rotors on your truck? Even if all I did was drive through Tennessee and Kentucky mountains at max weight I wouldn't put those on there. They crack way too easily under heat unless you get race rotors, but then you lose stopping power when their cool. I haul very heavy loads (you can call me out on it, I know it's wrong) but I pull 8k regularly with my 1500 and 10-12k every couple weekends. I put autozone premium rotors and semi met pads on my truck

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

Well, from what I can tell, some people say they crack, and others say small stones get into the drill holes.

Well, first of all, these were $56 each. So that is about $100 a set. I researched and I found no one tell me theirs cracked. I liked the idea of slots, cause I think it makes a difference with the gasses, and even ACDELCO professional uses the slots as well, $110 each. The Advanced Technology Raybestos were the next choice at $60. but I wanted to try them.

And I am not so sure that even NAPAs truck service pads are that great, and people complained of squealing and such.

The way I see it, I can try these, and if they screw up, I am out $150. if they work well, I am in with more stopping power in wet, and might work out well.

Did you hear stories of the Power Stop drilled rotors cracking, I checked a lot of youtube videos, and did not see anything like this.
 

dudeman2009

Senior Member
Joined
Feb 9, 2016
Posts
1,562
Reaction score
208
Location
Arizona
Ram Year
2001 1500 Sport with enough electrical modifications to make my brain hurt
Engine
Magnum 360
Well, from what I can tell, some people say they crack, and others say small stones get into the drill holes.

Well, first of all, these were $56 each. So that is about $100 a set. I researched and I found no one tell me theirs cracked. I liked the idea of slots, cause I think it makes a difference with the gasses, and even ACDELCO professional uses the slots as well, $110 each. The Advanced Technology Raybestos were the next choice at $60. but I wanted to try them.

And I am not so sure that even NAPAs truck service pads are that great, and people complained of squealing and such.

The way I see it, I can try these, and if they screw up, I am out $150. if they work well, I am in with more stopping power in wet, and might work out well.

Did you hear stories of the Power Stop drilled rotors cracking, I checked a lot of youtube videos, and did not see anything like this.

Couple of things to address. Firstly, garbage in the drilled holes, can be a problem if you go any further off road than the occasional dirt road, otherwise, not a problem really.

Second, I would never recommend solid rotors on a truck, always vented/slotted (just what you call them). Venting provides cooling far superior to solid disks, that is a given. However, look at any racecar today, you won't find any. They aren't used anymore in any very high performance application, technology has improved so much that the slight addition in cooling is completely negated by the greatly increased chance to crack when used in high carbon content rotors (Virtually all high performance are). The gasses that build up are not an issue at all anymore unless you're brakes light on fire, but even then drilled rotors aren't going to help that much anyway.

You will never see a Semi-truck with drilled rotors, but you are seeing them on all new trucks with vented disk, you will rarely see race cars with drilled rotors anymore as they all use vented disk. The two cases of usage that are guaranteed to stress brakes to the max don't use drilled rotors. However, just like you believe, there are retail customers that still believe drilling is better, so why wouldn't companies sell them. They aren't much better, its just different.

Lastly, Semi-metallic pads are going to squeal if you heat them up beyond spec, but then again so will ceramics, just not as much. Yet again, you will never see a Semi with ceramic pads, or a racecar. They just aren't the best for high energy high temperature stopping. They are great on brake wear, but what does it matter if your brakes wear if you cant stop. Semi-metallic pads usually don't squeal if you buy premium, unless you overheat them. Ceramic pads rarely squeal unless you severely overheat them. There is a reason commercial vehicles brakes squeal, they get hot, but they still stop.

I'm not saying what you have is bad, its still pretty good and should handle alright. But even those pads are high carbon content just like their semi-metallic brothers, its just a matter of fact. The rotors are very conservative on their drilling, almost to the point of doing a whole lot of squat. But they are quality enough that we sell them at Sears. We won't put anything on a car unless it meets the manufacturer's specification. We will NOT put a substandard part on a vehicle.

In the end, if you want ultimate high energy high heat stopping, get something with high carbon content. That is what takes the heat and maintains the frictional coefficient at high temperatures.
 

Okiespaniel

Senior Member
Joined
Dec 18, 2011
Posts
1,645
Reaction score
897
Location
Work, Shop, Computer
Ram Year
2000
Engine
magnum, 5.9
Ramgod...
I don't post on here much anymore and hope you've solved your problem.
Brakes either work or they don't. Even with the anti lock systems and such, they still function the same.

I believe ( and humor another old guy if you will) that you have two problems for sure.

I assume you've adjusted your rear brakes so they're almost tight to the drums then backed them off. Yes, I know they auto adjust. Here's where you'll have to humor me. You need to adjust them manually first, just so they start to drag. Back the wheel off one turn. Check brakes. BTW I usually let mine drag because in a week or two they won't :).
If this improves but doesn't fix the issues you have a lot of air in your lines and some of it is still trapped in the antilock system. You as much proved that when you bled the brakes a second time and they worked better.

There's no easy fix for this unless you have a power bleeding system. I would suggest opening your bleeder valves on the rear cylinders and filling the master cylinder as they drain. It should be obvious, but for the record do not let the master cylinder run dry. Also you must let at least one resivior full of fluid drain to be sure you've emptied out the ABS This will get most of the air out. Then you can do the same for the front. If you are real ornery you can do all four at once. Yes, it's messy. But you've got to get the trapped air out of the ABS.

After this you can do the individual bleed by pedal method. Start with the passenger rear cylinder first.

I hope this helps you. I've had these same issues myself on Mopars and this usually solves them.
2nd gen rear drum brakes don't stay adjusted.

BTW, I agree and the slotted rotor opinions. They will do nothing for your stopping. But again, that is NOT your current issue. I hope to get you back on the road.
 
Last edited:
OP
OP
R

ramgod

Junior Member
Joined
Jul 25, 2017
Posts
10
Reaction score
0
Ram Year
2001
Engine
8.0 v10
Hi everyone, an update on my brake issue. First, I am not at all disappointed in putting on hardware that was not required, this was a good time to uncover anything that is hampering my brakes, and I keep finding things to fix and repair.

This is what I have done so far.

I replaced the front brakes and calipers, this is where the issue started.

I then went to bleed rear brakes, and the brake cylinders were very old, replaced them, and also found a weak line in process and replaced it. While I was there replaced the springs, and retainer clips, and adjusted brakes to just have shoes touch the drums.

Then I removed the rear ride height level proportioning valve, and put in a splitter block instead.

I replaced the master cylinder, since that was what seemed to be the most likely culprit.

Then still weak pedal, noticed a bit of a sucking sound on master booster, so I replaced that, which for $99 was not a bad idea really, glad I did that, pedal is much smoother and firmer.

then I replaced both front brake hoses, and they are now new.

I bled the new master cylinder a second time, and got a few air bubbles that must have been missed the new bench bleed.

However, all said, I still have little pedal and need to go a long way down to get brakes.

Now, of course it might be an adjustment issue, but I had better brakes before the new front calipers.

So now I am left with me not bleeding something properly, since I think it has front ABS on this model, and not sure if special bleeding is needed.

Second, it could be the front abs I suppose.

However I have replaced just about everything, bled this system at least 10 times and I am not sure what to try next.
 
OP
OP
R

ramgod

Junior Member
Joined
Jul 25, 2017
Posts
10
Reaction score
0
Ram Year
2001
Engine
8.0 v10
Ramgod...
I don't post on here much anymore and hope you've solved your problem.
Brakes either work or they don't. Even with the anti lock systems and such, they still function the same.

I believe ( and humor another old guy if you will) that you have two problems for sure.

I assume you've adjusted your rear brakes so they're almost tight to the drums then backed them off. Yes, I know they auto adjust. Here's where you'll have to humor me. You need to adjust them manually first, just so they start to drag. Back the wheel off one turn. Check brakes. BTW I usually let mine drag because in a week or two they won't :).
If this improves but doesn't fix the issues you have a lot of air in your lines and some of it is still trapped in the antilock system. You as much proved that when you bled the brakes a second time and they worked better.

There's no easy fix for this unless you have a power bleeding system. I would suggest opening your bleeder valves on the rear cylinders and filling the master cylinder as they drain. It should be obvious, but for the record do not let the master cylinder run dry. Also you must let at least one resivior full of fluid drain to be sure you've emptied out the ABS This will get most of the air out. Then you can do the same for the front. If you are real ornery you can do all four at once. Yes, it's messy. But you've got to get the trapped air out of the ABS.

After this you can do the individual bleed by pedal method. Start with the passenger rear cylinder first.

I hope this helps you. I've had these same issues myself on Mopars and this usually solves them.
2nd gen rear drum brakes don't stay adjusted.

BTW, I agree and the slotted rotor opinions. They will do nothing for your stopping. But again, that is NOT your current issue. I hope to get you back on the road.


Currently, I only have ABS as the RWAL system. There is a chance this is not operating properly.

I manually adjusted the shoes. At first I went just to a slight drag as you put them on, but I recently let them drag until I get this solved.

This is a interesting option of just letting them bleed out, I could just hook some hose to them and let them fill a bottle, and recycle back in. I have already flushed the whole system a number of times.

The low pedal seems to be what this RWAL system has if the valve inside is not operating or stuck open. So my old truck did not have this, so I am thinking that this might be it.

On the rotors, I think they will help me in stopping. I was getting brake fade on those large hills, i took the temperature they were over 1000 degrees easily, and I suspect on long descents up to 1300 degrees. I had to ensure that I did not stop and kept air flowing until cool, the moment I stopped they were smoking up a storm, very rancid.

I am fully loaded and a cargo trailer, wooder home made camper, so that is alot of inertia on those large hills, and no guard rail. But time will tell if they stay cooler on those large descents.
 

dudeman2009

Senior Member
Joined
Feb 9, 2016
Posts
1,562
Reaction score
208
Location
Arizona
Ram Year
2001 1500 Sport with enough electrical modifications to make my brain hurt
Engine
Magnum 360
Currently, I only have ABS as the RWAL system. There is a chance this is not operating properly.

I manually adjusted the shoes. At first I went just to a slight drag as you put them on, but I recently let them drag until I get this solved.

This is a interesting option of just letting them bleed out, I could just hook some hose to them and let them fill a bottle, and recycle back in. I have already flushed the whole system a number of times.

The low pedal seems to be what this RWAL system has if the valve inside is not operating or stuck open. So my old truck did not have this, so I am thinking that this might be it.

On the rotors, I think they will help me in stopping. I was getting brake fade on those large hills, i took the temperature they were over 1000 degrees easily, and I suspect on long descents up to 1300 degrees. I had to ensure that I did not stop and kept air flowing until cool, the moment I stopped they were smoking up a storm, very rancid.

I am fully loaded and a cargo trailer, wooder home made camper, so that is alot of inertia on those large hills, and no guard rail. But time will tell if they stay cooler on those large descents.

The saying form follows function might apply here. What about passive braking? I know you don't have a manual with exhaust brake, but perhaps you'd consider buying into a truck with a manual or replacing your auto with a manual if these descents are common for you.

If you don't want to change, you can stick a monster tranny cooler on there and stick the thing in 2nd gear at the top, that way the engine will backdrive some and take a bit of energy from the brakes. Remember, just about everything is exponential in braking, even the slightest reduction in brake demand can have a moderate effect on brake temps.

Have you thought about regenerative or dynamic braking on your trailers?
 
Top