3" front 1" rear leveling kits questions.

[Donelam304]

Sorry for another lift/leveling kit thread question. But now that more and more kits keep coming out and I seen the 2 I am listing below. I'm wanting to now if I done one of these kits, could I go to 37's down the road. And would these effect the towing. I know I can go 3" or 4" lift. But they are double the price and are more stable. Is there anyone running 37's on just a leveling kit with out newer trucks. They sit up higher than others I've seen. This build for income tax season I have about $2,000 and I'm doing tires, programmer for sure, leveling kit and maybe rims if I find a good deal. I love the American Outlaw rims that are blacked out and have the skull & crossbones on the center caps. But do y'all think I can run 37's later on the kits listed below. And are these kits good quality. Could I run in to any problems with these kits. Such as steering arms or anything.

Kit #1

Traxda 605050 Lift Kit Dodge Ram 2500 4x4 fits 2014

Kit #2

ReadyLift, SST Lift Kit w/Shocks, 69-1231 - TruckMods

 

[Donelam304]

:'(

 

[harrison725]

I have a 3" front spindle lift that I will sell you

 

[Donelam304]

I can't use a spindle lift. Mine is a 2500. Sorry.

 

[sbuko213]

Honestly you're probably best waiting until you can do it right with an actual lift. It'll help the truck ride better and put less stress on everything.

 

[Donelam304]

That's what I'm thinking. Go with a 2½" Leveling Kit for a couple of years and 35" tires. Then go 4" lift and 37" tires.

 

[sbuko213]

I'd just set it aside and do the 4" and 37s right off the bat.

 

[gunner1374]

There is always a body lift? That might help and not hard or expensive to do? We did a 3" front spacer lift and 2" rear spacer with a 3" body on my buddys 2013 sport cc 4x4 and it looked awesome. Total price was right at $700 with shocks for 6" front and 5" rear lift. Rides like stock and should fit 37s with no issues, but he had 35s on it.

 

[Broke pilot]

I'm doing a 2" front rough country level with 37's in about a month. From my measurements it is doable with the right offset.
I'm putting on a spare set of Cooper STT'S from my crawler that are 37/12.5/17 with a set of method 17x8.5, 4.75" backspace. At normal ride height it should not rub, possibly the little spot that flares at the bottom of the fender liner but a heat gun will solve that if it happens.

Now if for some reason this doesn't work and it's rubbing to badly (I have faith in my measurements, but sometimes things go sideways) I'll be ordering the Dodge Offroad package with the softer coils from pure performance. Take a look, Danny Gaston builds some cool stuff for all gens of ram, can't wait til he really focuses on the newer 2500's.

 

[Donelam304]

How do you figure the whole offset thing. I'm lost when y'all start talking about that. Lol.

 

[Broke pilot]

Offset is the same as back spacing just measured differently. Offset is in mm from the mounting pad of the wheel in relation the center of the rim. Backspace is overall distance from the mounting pad to back edge of the rim measured in inches.
If you have a 10" wide wheel (just an example) with a 0 offset you have a 5" backspace since the mounting pad is dead center of the rim width.
A negative (-xx) offset will bring the mounting pad closer the back edge, same as a smaller backspace. For example a -12offset (12mm= .47") on a 10" wide wheel would be roughly a 4.5" backspace. A -24offset (=.97") would roughly be a 4" backspace.
Negative offsets are what make the wheel stick and and have that nice lip on them.

If you have positive offset (+xx) the opposite happens. You increase backspace and the wheel moves closer to the truck.
Lower and positive offsets help you run bigger tires with less lift and less rubbing. From there its all straight line distances from the edge of the tire to the fender which is where it gets really complicated to measure when you turn the wheel. There is an easy way to do it with a piece of wood and a measuring tape or yard stick I can show yall or tell you how to do.
Hope that helps... It can get confusing.

 

[Donelam304]

I think I have a little better idea on it. On positive offset it makes the tires stick out farther and therefore you have to have fender flares. Right.

 

[caps]

I think I have a little better idea on it. On positive offset it makes the tires stick out farther and therefore you have to have fender flares. Right.

No


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[SETEX 6.4]

I think I have a little better idea on it. On positive offset it makes the tires stick out farther and therefore you have to have fender flares. Right.

Just the opposite!

 

[sbuko213]

I think I have a little better idea on it. On positive offset it makes the tires stick out farther and therefore you have to have fender flares. Right.

Negative offset is what you're thinking of. Here's a diagram that explains it.

WheelBackspacing.jpg Photo by jsymonds88 | Photobucket