4Low Hill Climbs

[MasonD21]

I expect this question has no single answer, just wanting an idea on how to do it as safely and with as little damage as I can.

I live in a mountainous area just outside of town. We are currently living out of a camper that I used my company's F-550 to pull up to our spot. I have a 17 RAM 2500 Power Wagon.

Ok, so when I have the truck unloaded pulling my utility trailer (loaded, around 8500lbs), crawling up one of my hills (which is only about a 1000 foot run), I use the range selector to stay in first gear, the truck really struggles up this hill. Close to 3/4 throttle, not quite WOT, and I can muster about 3500 RPM before I really feel like I'm working the truck just too hard.

The hill is relatively straight with no turns except at the bottom and the top. Would I put LESS stress on the truck if I dropped it in 4Low, or should I just stick with 1st gear?

This definitely isn't a race, I'm ok with snail speed. I'm NOT ok with grenading a T-case or blowing up my transmission.

This has been bothering me for months, and spring is coming, and there is lots of work to be done. I'm looking for your opinions!

 

[SYKRAMMAN]

Yeah I would definitely drop it into low range and crawl, it’ll be way Lee’s stress on engine and drivetrain components.

 

[McBroom]

Have you tried going up it in 4hi and 4lo is designed for pulling under 12 mph


I Love My 2018 RAM 2500HD 4x4

 

[MasonD21]

Have you tried going up it in 4hi

I haven't tried in 4hi, there isn't any traction loss from what I can tell (it's paved... if you can call a non-county road with asphalt patches a "paved road" haha). I just want to be able to have the gear reduction properties, but I don't know if I'm just better off using normal forward gear or if using 4Low would take pressure and wear off some components or if something would break or just isnt designed to be used that way.

It has full warranty but if the t-case isn't designed for that kind of stress, I'll just keep doing what I'm doing.

Truck hasn't puked fluid yet at least. And I'd still probably just stick to 1st or 2nd.

But if someone tells me they've done this before and broke something, that'd be useful information

 

[Bock]

MasonD21, take a look here 2WD low and you can also use the rear locker and have no load on the front axles.

https://www.dieselperformance.com/s...0-2009-2017-2500-2014-2017-3500-2013-2017-586

 

[mtofell]

Absolutely use 4low. What you describe is exactly what it is there for. You'll be amazed how much more easily it moves the load up the hill. 4low is so powerful that you have a hard time keeping the truck sitting still with it in drive when in 4low. When at a light I always have to pop it into neutral rather than keeping my foot mashed on the brake pedal.

You can get a top speed of about 40 mph (maybe higher if you don't mind the RPMs). The shifts will be super lurchy and harsh but that's how it's designed. I love it in the snow and use it to coast down hills without using the brakes. When I shift down to 1st I can roll along at about 3mph on a super steep hill. At least if I ever did hit something I would be going slow.

I also used the low range once when getting lost on some steep gravel logging roads with my 5th wheel. It really helped the truck pull and get traction more easily.

 

[MasonD21]

MasonD21, take a look here 2WD low and you can also use the rear locker and have no load on the front axles.

THAT THING... is the coolest piece of tech I've ever seen. Just bought it. Fairly certain the rear axle and driveline will handle the weight on its own now that the 2500 gassers are using the same beefed up driveline and diffs as the diesel trucks. If I'm wrong, let me know lol.

But truly, I know many people that would find this thing useful. I'll try and report back once I use it.

 

[Bock]

But truly, I know many people that would find this thing useful. I'll try and report back once I use it.

Please do, I believe there are couple members here using one, but never hear how it works out, I am planing on get one my self just haven't order it yet.

 

[RoadRamblerNJ]

There will be one more as soon as I can scratch up $148. Thank you for that link.

Always bring enough gun.

 

[Wowens79]

DO NOT USE 4-LOW IF IT IS PAVED!! Unless you install the device others have mentioned the gives you a 2-low.

Using 4-low on pavement does not allow for slippage, and will bind up the drive train from differences in tire diameters, and distance traveled when you turn.

 

[CostaRam]

Absolutely use 4low. What you describe is exactly what it is there for.

No, No and No!
4Low is designed to drive exclusively on slippery grounds where left and right wheels can turn at different speed.
4Low is designed to be used on sand, gravel, snow, ice but definitively NOT on paved road.
You can use it after the 1st curve and before the first curve as binding occures more when not driving straight,
BUT even using it on straight paved road it's not recommened and will most likely lead to premature wear of your drive train.

Your problem can be solved only by a real 4x4 truck who has separated 4WD/2WD and Hi/Lo gear selectors.

The only "cheap" solution would be to add free wheel hubs to disable 4x4 while in 4Low
Or to tune your engine to get the necessary HP to drive up in 1st Hi

Chris

 

[Ratket]

It’s not even a 1/8 of a mile and it’s a straight line right?
You can use 4 low - just don’t turn very much.
I have to do this in my work truck cause it has to much weight some times. I would go 4-Lo and 2nd gear or 3rd gear and put along at 25-35 mph. As long as you don’t turn very much the truck won’t “ walk on it’s self” and you will be fine. Not going to hurt a thing pulling that load for that short of a distance in 4x4L.

Also do even bother to attempt in 4 high. If the truck struggles in 2High, adding the front drive train to the equation is just going to slow you down more. But with the gear reduction of 4low you will be just fine.

 

[U&A]

If it was a one time deal. I would do it with NO turning. If it was going to be more than once i would find another option

 

[RoadRamblerNJ]

If it was a one time deal. I would do it with NO turning. If it was going to be more than once i would find another option

Agreed. Turning on pavement in 4L is bad, ummkay.

 

[MasonD21]

I would go 4-Lo and 2nd gear or 3rd gear and put along at 25-35 mph.

I would just use the range selector and creep up the hill. Thinking just first gear. And correct, no turns necessary, I wont be putting huge strains on the front axle, though maturally there will be a little resistance/bind I’m sure. But it isnt that long of a run.

I bought the kit for 2wdL. Excited to share my results.

 

[Ratket]

In a straight line it won’t bind at all. The front wouldn’t slip unless the rear slipped and I doubt you are running two different tire sizes on a 4x4 let alone a $55k power wagon... that would just be fckn stupid. You will be fine bud. If you get to a point u need to turn, put it back in 2X and just back up a little and be double sure it fully disengaged. Not rocket science, you got this.

 

[pwjouster]

In a straight line it won’t bind at all. The front wouldn’t slip unless the rear slipped and I doubt you are running two different tire sizes on a 4x4 let alone a $55k power wagon... that would just be fckn stupid. You will be fine bud. If you get to a point u need to turn, put it back in 2X and just back up a little and be double sure it fully disengaged. Not rocket science, you got this.

im slightly unsure, but does the tongue or bed weight play a role in "tire sizes" while underway? front and rear axles would be different heights off the ground for sure if you had a large load...

4lo with brand new tires did not like straight line on pavement..

 

[Ratket]

If it sounds like it is binding or unhappy then just go 2X and 1st gear and keep the rpms around 3500 and call it a day.

 

[U&A]

Wait until a rainy day to do it....

Little extra slippage... LOl

 

[mohemipar]

I would also say not to worry too much about the truck “screaming” it’s not as bad as it sounds. Since they don’t make monster torque super low like a diesel. You aren’t even in the meat of the 6.4’s torque until 3500+. Just cus the truck is running hard doesn’t mean you are going to damage it. It prob actually do the engine some good and keep away carbon build up lol. Chrysler torture tests the drivetrains at max RPMs for days literally nonstop. Of course if something did break on you it would suck in a rural area, but having a ’17 you do have a nice long warranty ahead. Point is I’d just try not to worry about it.