5.2 magnum turbo

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e_hartzell17

e_hartzell17

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5.2 318
Finally after looking at all this turbo **** it's time to put it on lol just have a set back like usual, our trucks utilize power breaks which run off of vacuum and when I put the turbo on and hit boost, there will be positive pressure. My question is what will happen to my breaks


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Max78

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Under boost you will have crappy brakes, however when you let off the gas pedal the throttle body blade shuts which helps redirect the boost out of the BOV, and because your throttle blade is closed you regain vacuum to your components.

On the Camaro I put one-way valves on all my accessory vacuum lines like vent control and stuff so they don't redirect to defrost when under boost. On the brake line I kept it stock and have not had an issue.

Be sure to keep this thread updated as I'm sure plenty of people are interested!
 

dudeman2009

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Your brakes have a check valve on them already, thats why you have one or two pumps after shutting off the engine before the brakes get 'hard'

When you're pushing boost, you'll have one or two pumps on the brakes before they get stiff. Within about a second or two of letting off the throttle, full vacuum will be returned to the brakes. The vents already have a check valve on them that prevents them from reverting to defrost during loss of vacuum. Even without a turbo, when that valve goes bad the vents go 'wild'.
 
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e_hartzell17

e_hartzell17

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So turbo is on and boosting away lol but the only problem is that o ring/ seal that's smushed between the intake and the intake hat keeps blowing out. Any suggestions on what I should do to stop it from blowing out or to just even get rid of it but put something in its place that can handle 8psi


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Shadow_Death

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Also get rid of that stock kegger intake manifold if you hadn't otherwise you will be blowing that gasket all the time.

Edit: Whoops didn't realize that this thing was 9 pages in. You probably already know what I mean then. Lol
 
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e_hartzell17

e_hartzell17

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So my boost gauge isn't leaving vaccine no matter how hard I try and even when I go wot it doesn't budge off of 20 on the vacuum side. And next question, what is the poundage of the factory fuel pump


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e_hartzell17

e_hartzell17

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$450 for device and canned tune. You don't need the custom boost stuff until you get it all together


So my boost gauge isn't leaving vaccine no matter how hard I try and even when I go wot it doesn't budge off of 20 on the vacuum side. And next question, what is the poundage of the factory fuel pump



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Max78

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Sounds like its connected to a line that has a one way valve on it, run a new line to it if you can. Then check for any kinks in the line.

Also the gauge should read 0 when its not connected to anything so make sure the gauge is good.

No idea on factory pump specs, but when looking for another one look at the LPH (liters per hour). 255 is what i would recommend.
 
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e_hartzell17

e_hartzell17

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2001
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5.2 318
Sounds like its connected to a line that has a one way valve on it, run a new line to it if you can. Then check for any kinks in the line.

Also the gauge should read 0 when its not connected to anything so make sure the gauge is good.

No idea on factory pump specs, but when looking for another one look at the LPH (liters per hour). 255 is what i would recommend.



Do you know what the vacuum reading should be in our trucks, my 2001 is reading like 14 but for some reason I'm hitting a hard spot in my breaks and I don't have full breaking power



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dudeman2009

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I think I remember mine sitting around 18-20inHg at idle.
 
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