65rfe 4th gen 6 speed auto xsmn .

[GoldDot]

Takes 8 quarts for the 4x4 pan.

 

[R.L.K.]

I found several reviews stating this is the case. When I put the pan on I had some trouble getting the bolts holes to line up after I got the first bolt in. I had to push the pan slightly towards the drivers side to get them to line up so I could get a second bolt started. After that the all went fine. I figured it was just hitting up against the dipstick because I had forgot to take it out before installing the pan. Just makes me nervous as the main screen filter only has a plastic neck that goes up into the pump.

I'll know more on Saturday when I swap back to the oem pan...

@R.L.K. torque specs for the pan bolts and main filter torx bolt are 105 In/lbs

Ha thanks buddy ! I just watched that on a video that " SYN " posted a while back over on the synthetic oil thread .
Too funny !

 

[R.L.K.]

Takes 8 quarts for the 4x4 pan.

Great info !

 

[DILLIGAF]

the Mag-hytec Pan takes an extra 1.5 quarts

 

[R.L.K.]

I'm using this as my guide Saterday http://mdm.me/wp-content/uploads/2014/08/2006-Ram-Service-Manual-extract.pdf

Awesome ! This is exactly the type of info I'm after !

I've heard just a filter and fluid change may require a quick learn procedure of the xsmn ?
Is this something a dealership would do electronically ?

It seems when I ask my local dealer questions like this .. I normally get the ( deer on the headlights look ) ?

 

[R.L.K.]

So a 4x4 with the Mag- hytech pan would be 9.5 qts for a pan drop and filter change ?

Per DILLIGAF / GoldDot.
Post 21 &24 respectfully. ..

 

[U&A]

I'm glad you guys like this thread !
This is exactly what I was after ...

I'm also interested in things like TORQUE Specs on the ( 65RFE ) pan bolts , filter bolt tq as well .
Also things like the P/N of the flat sump filter kit and seal ?
And the spin on filter p/n ?

Also interested in the fluid specs for the 65RFE AUTOMATIC XSMN, the chrysler / fiat p/n of fluid .
I know it's been posted and thanks for that , I've not started taking notes yet .
I've read post and my service manual as far as fluid type and at what mileage the fluid is supposed to be changed at , but I'm more interested in what fluid and time periods that you guys and others think are more reasonable ...

As of right now..... as far as OCI on my tranny, the first one will be done before I hit 10,000 miles for sure. But im shooting for the first filter and fluid CHANGE to be done by october so more like 5,000 miles ...... if i can anyway. after that i am currently planning on doing a filter and fluid CHANGE once a year, or about every 10,000 miles. Always subject to change my plan though as i learn.

On another note, how much fluid is lost in a change and how much TOTAL fluid does our housing hold? My manuel doesn't say....iv looked many times and cant believe it isn't in there.

I also just orderd the DIY transmission drain plug kit by B&m. Im not sold on the deep pans right now. The drain plug kit cost $11 and some change on amazon prime, free shipping.

 

[DILLIGAF]

So a 4x4 with the Maq - hytech pan would be 9.5 qts for a pan drop and filter change ?

give or take, I purchased 12 quarts since I will be also doing my Transfer case at the same time

I just hope I will have enough.

 

[R.L.K.]

give or take, I purchased 12 quarts since I will be also doing my Transfer case at the same time

I just hope I will have enough.

I believe 12 qts to be plenty , I'll be doing my xsmn and transfer case NLT November , I'd say at approximately 42k total miles .

 

[DILLIGAF]

Im just glad I dont have those fancy " auto " 4WD T-cases with the " special " oil...lol...

 

[R.L.K.]

Im just glad I dont have those fancy " auto " 4WD T-cases with the " special " oil...lol...

LOL ! Me too .
Unicorn tears and such
$43.00 a qt.

 

[GoldDot]

4x4 filter change also requires a low profile torx bit/driver due to the cross over pipe. Recommend just using a 1/4 torx bit and a box wrench to turn it.

Also if you use mopar sealant you need to have that thing together in less than 5 minutes from when you first squeeze some out of the tube. If you have 24 hours for curing time available use permatex ultra grey. That way you have some time to assemble it.

I also recommend not torquing the bolts to spec. Snug using a 1/4 ratchet is fine. You may experience breaking a bolt if you torque to spec. Purchasing grade 12 hardware is another option to upgrade the strength.

 

[R.L.K.]

Not that it has ANYTHING to do with anything, but we use Castrol Transmax Z in all of our helicopter gearboxes and transmissions.

What type of Helicopters do you work on sir ?

 

[R.L.K.]

Anyone have any details on what a " quick learn " procedure is for the transmission ?

Is the Quick learn procedure something done by the dealer ?

 

[R.L.K.]

In the past I've always just dropped the pan , changed filters and reinstalled the pan and replenished with fluid , I've never drained the Tq. Converter .

Anyone have details on draining the Tq. Converter?

 

[Hemi395]

Anyone have any details on what a " quick learn " procedure is for the transmission ?

Is the Quick learn procedure something done by the dealer ?

The quick learn procedure is something that SHOULD only have to be done if the valve body is removed and the electrical connector is disconnected. A fluid and filter change shouldn't require a quick learn unless the old fluid is really bad.

The dealer can do a quick learn but I would imagine any independent shop with high end diagnostic equipment should be able to perform a quick learn as well...

 

[Hemi395]

Im just glad I dont have those fancy " auto " 4WD T-cases with the " special " oil...lol...

Damn BW 44-44. Its the one thing I hate about my truck. Cost me $62 to replace the damn fluid in it...

 

[U&A]

4x4 filter change also requires a low profile torx bit/driver due to the cross over pipe. Recommend just using a 1/4 torx bit and a box wrench to turn it.

Also if you use mopar sealant you need to have that thing together in less than 5 minutes from when you first squeeze some out of the tube. If you have 24 hours for curing time available use permatex ultra grey. That way you have some time to assemble it.

I also recommend not torquing the bolts to spec. Snug using a 1/4 ratchet is fine. You may experience breaking a bolt if you torque to spec. Purchasing grade 12 hardware is another option to upgrade the strength.

are you referring to removing the pan itself and the fact the the exhaust crosses over the back of the pan? or are you taking about something else?

 

[nickpohlaandp]

What type of Helicopters do you work on sir ?

I'm an inspector for EC135's, EC145's, and BK117's

 

[R.L.K.]

I'm an inspector for EC135's, EC145's, and BK117's

I work for Bell Helicopter , I have a bit of 105 time , we have a local outfit with a couple 145s .

Over last 26 years I've had a mixed bag of Eurocopter, MD but it always has been dominantly Bell for me . From the 206 Jet Rangers to the 412EP 15 airframes in all .
Now days I'm dominantly working on the Bell 407 and the 429 .

Most of Bells aircraft uses Royco 555 in the xsmn & Gearboxes .