Discussion in 'Engine & Performance' started by robsnyder225, Oct 29, 2016.
Does this truck have a ballast resistor?
no it shouldn't. that should be built into the coil on your truck.
That's what I was thinking too. I was told that the pickup coil could cause this issue too. Guess its time to just tear into the wiring and chase
i wouldn't tear into the wiring just yet. does it have that relay on the drivers side fender? if so i would be testing the wires to it for power. you could also pull codes to see if there is anything that the computer is complaining about.
1. Cycle the ignition key ON-OFF-ON-OFF-ON within 5 seconds. To cycle the ignition key ON means to turn it only as far as it takes to get the radio to come on. It does not mean to turn the engine on.
2. Count the number of times the "check engine" lamp on the instrument panel flashes on and off. The number of flashes represents the code. There is a slight pause between the flashes representing the first and second digits of the code. Longer pauses separate individual codes. For example, flash-flash-flash [pause] flash-flash represents the code 32.
A code of "55" represents end of error codes. If this is all you get then no error codes are stored in the computer. This is the normal condition
CODE Description of Trouble Code
11 Timing belt skipped 1 tooth or more from initial learned value, Intermittent loss of either camshaft or crankshaft position sensor, No crank reference signal detected during engine cranking
12 Direct battery input to PCM was disconnected within the last 50 key-on cycles (normal)
13 No change in MAP from start to run
14 MAP sensor voltage too low
15 No vehicle speed sensor signal
17 Closed loop temp not reached or engine cold too long
21 02s sensor problem (oxygen sensor), upstream or down stream
22 Engine coolant temp sensor out of range
23 Intake air temp sensor out of range
24 Throttle Position sensor out of range
25 Idle air control motor circuits, target idle not reached (+/- 200),vacuum leak found
27 Injector control circuit
31 Evap purge flow monitor failure or evap solenoid circuit
32 EGR system failure
33 A/C clutch relay circuit
34 Speed control Solenoid circuits
35 Rad Fan control relay circuit
37 Torque converter clutch solenoid CKT or park/neutral switch failure
41 Generator field not switching properly
42 Fuel pump relay control ckt, Auto shutdown relay control ckt, No ASD relay output voltage at PCM, Fuel level sending unit volts out of range, Fuel level unit No change over miles
43 Multiple/ single cylinder misfire
44 Battery temp sensor volts out of range
45 Overdrive solenoid shorted or open (automatic transmission only)
46 Charging system voltage too high
47 Charging system voltage too low
51 Fuel system lean
52 Fuel system rich
53 Internal control failure
54 No Cam signal at PCM
55 End of error messages (If you get this only, no errors were found)
62 PCM failure SRI mile not stored
63 PCM Failure EEPROM write denied
64 Catalytic Converter Efficiency Failure
65 Power steering switch failure
Thank you. I'll have to try this out to. I already know the wires to the coil need fixed. And I'm pretty sure that there are some relays missing from the inner fender. Just gotta start somewhere. I'll give an update after this weekend.
You can test the wire to the coil. You just need to find that relay before you can really test much farther
It didn't give any codes except the 55. Found all the relays and fixed a bunch of wires that looked like a rats nest. Got the fuel pump to work with the key and got power to the coil. Have power out of the coil but no spark from the distributor. Should this year truck have a reluctor in the distributor? Because it doesn't have one and I'm baffled, if its not the pickup coil then what could it be?
so the fuel pump kicks on for a few seconds and then shuts off when you first turn the key on? do you also hear the throttle kicker on the throttle body making noise when you turn the key on?
your truck would not have a reluctor. they have a hall effect setup.
The fuel pump kicks on and back off. The throttle kicker is also working like it should I believe. It makes noise when the key first turns on and then does it again when shut off. So now I believe its a spark issue and it may be the pickup coil. Just gotta find out how to test it and how to change it if its bad.
the hall effect sensor in the distributor is easy to change. there is only 2 screws holding the hall effect sensor in the distributor and i think you can remove it with the distributor in in the engine. i don't now if there is a way to test the sensor.
have you checked to see if you are getting spark right from the coil?
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