Another Check Valve Question..

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Magnum5.9

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I was reading on anoher forum about the check valve delete where those guys were deleting the check valve and putting a remote filter(see first pic with a filter in it) so that it filters that fluid better it enters the radiator and tranny aux cooler. The filter would also act as a check valve that wont get gummed up like the OEM one(best of both worlds!?).



But I have to make sure I plumb in the filter correctly or else the check valve will work against my system resulting in no fluid being pumped into the tranny...

So my first question is: is the 2nd pic with the blue arrows the correct way of flow? The pressurized line coming from the tranny to the radiator is the check valve line and runs into the bottom of the radiator correct?? If that is correct then I should put the green X side of the line into the in port of the filter and the red X side should come out of the out port in the filter and go into the botom of radiator?

Qestion 2. Can i just used basic oil filters for this remote filter setup? is there only certain filters that will work with tranny fluid?

If you have done this or something similar, please please post on here AND PM me with any of your concerns/sugestions!!

Thanks guys!
 

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Magnum5.9

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40 views and no thoughts.. bump
 

MagSport

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^agreed but I can tell you the flow indications look accurate. It (the fluid) does come through the check valve before it gets to the radiator.


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Magnum5.9

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I haven't replied because I don't know enough about remote filters to be comfortable doing so. :crazy:


It sounds as tho my best bet might be to just do what dodge dude did and just replace it with a new generic line.. how long should I let the truck sit in neutral until I can "safely" drive it on cold mornings? 1 min? 5 min?

I typically let my truck sit for at least 1 or 2 min idling in P before slowly taking off and 5-10min idling if it is below 5 degress
 

dodge dude94

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It sounds as tho my best bet might be to just do what dodge dude did and just replace it with a new generic line.. how long should I let the truck sit in neutral until I can "safely" drive it on cold mornings? 1 min? 5 min?

I typically let my truck sit for at least 1 or 2 min idling in P before slowly taking off and 5-10min idling if it is below 5 degress

Not long, bout 15-20 seconds. If you're in sub freezing weather, just let the truck warm up in neutral, the TC will be more than filled by the time to leave.
 
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Magnum5.9

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Not long, bout 15-20 seconds. If you're in sub freezing weather, just let the truck warm up in neutral, the TC will be more than filled by the time to leave.

Is there any damage to the TC by starting it up and letting in run in neutral? The only thing I can relate it to is if you started and engine and let it run without oil for a while which I know is very bad :) I take it the TC is different and only requires the fluid for movement when in D,1st or 2nd gear
 
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Magnum5.9

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Not long, bout 15-20 seconds. If you're in sub freezing weather, just let the truck warm up in neutral, the TC will be more than filled by the time to leave.

I apologize for splitting hairs but when you say warm up, do you mean a couple of minutes or up to full operating temp(which takes about 10-15 depending on outside temp)?
 

dodge dude94

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Is there any damage to the TC by starting it up and letting in run in neutral? The only thing I can relate it to is if you started and engine and let it run without oil for a while which I know is very bad :) I take it the TC is different and only requires the fluid for movement when in D,1st or 2nd gear
Only damage comes if you try to drive it with an empty pump. Letting it idle in neutral is just fine.
I apologize for splitting hairs but when you say warm up, do you mean a couple of minutes or up to full operating temp(which takes about 10-15 depending on outside temp)?

Well......for me full warm up is 15 minutes, probably longer for you. :roflsquared:

Just whatever your winter routine is if you let it warm up in the morning while you're in the house drinking coffee or eating breakfast.
 

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1. Remove the check ball completely. It was put there to warm the trans faster to reduce firm cold shifts because people complain some people say it stops drain back but that's crap.
2. There are specific inline trans filters that will work best. You can use an oil filter but.. The filtration level is a little too fine. Most people don't realize having SOME friction material in your fluid is a good thing.
3. Your flow diagram is correct
4. Idling in P will not charge the converter unless you have a modified main valve. Idle in neutral is ideal.
 

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How does the check valve get gummed up when tranny fluid is a detergent? I don't see the need for a remote filter, when the tranny should actually be serviced at every 40k.
 

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How does the check valve get gummed up when tranny fluid is a detergent? I don't see the need for a remote filter, when the tranny should actually be serviced at every 40k.

Gunk being friction material.
 

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I did some research on this so called check valve. It seems that Dodge used a plastic check ball, in time will degrade because of the temp of the trans fluid. If you're running the original drainback valve (what its actually called), then its obvious going to give you problems. I don't see the need for an extra filter, plus the cost of it and the filters alone. Its cheaper to buy the hose with the valve. When you service the trans, make sure the valve isn't sticking. Its that simple. If you want better assurance, just buy a new hose and valve. There's also no need to drill it out and having to remember to put it in neutral to get the pump to fill the TC.

This is from the FSM. When you change the tranny fluid, the cooler and the core in the radiator need to be reversed flushed. Don't do this procedure, the oil in the cooler/core is going to contaminate the new fluid. It seems a lot of people skip this step.
 
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