Anyone install a powertrax, Nitro, or similar rear limited slip?

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Tazzerblue

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Looking a options for my New Ram 1500 that wasn't ordered with LS. these look to be the simplest to install. I just don't like the one wheel spin. Yes Moe's has the LS, my dealer quoted me around 1500 for the LS and install. Moe's is around 450.00 Not sure what the dealer is looking at. I could do the install myself, as long as I can get buy with etching for gear contact.
 

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Stay away from powertrax. Put one in my wrangler, made rediculously loud clicking noises around bends, and after a few months, unit locked up.
Just pay a mechanic to install a detroit locker. Best on the market.
 
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S0CAL

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Yup, Detroit Trutrac and peace of mind.
 

TRCM

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Stay away from powertrax. Put one in my wrangler, made rediculously loud clicking noises around bends, and after a few months spider gear teeth broke off.
Just pay a me hanic to install a detroit locker. Best on the market.


I and many others would disagree....they work the same way.....detroit has just been around longer.

Any locking rear end will click when turning....no way around it if it is an automatic type locker (which a detroit is).

Had a locker in at least 1 vehicle every year for the last 20 or so yrs, and yeah, they click, but if you use the correct oil, it is less, and the benefit of the added traction is worth the clicking.

I have also not had one break, and one of the went thru enough torque to literally twist the axle tubes on both sides open like a can of biscuits...and not at the pumpkin either, at the spring perches. Got a new housing, transferred the guts & locker to the new housing, and kept on getting it.


If you had a locker in your wrangler, not sure how you had spider gears, as they get removed to install the locker.
 
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I guess i should have clarafied. I blew out the spider gears on my stock diff on my 2001 wrangler. I had the dealer install the powertrax "Lock right" unit. The powertrax clicking was rediculously loud and embarrasing when turning. Multiple people told me i might wanna have my jeep repaired (they knew nothing about lockers).
The clicking noise kept getting louder and louder, then eventually locked up.
I then installed a stock diff and sold it.
I built a 2010 4 door wrangler, and installed detroit lockers (not true-trac).
Detroits never made any clicking noises when turning. The powertrax is a cheap, affordable unit...but you get what you pay for.
 

TRCM

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I guess i should have clarafied. I blew out the spider gears on my stock diff on my 2001 wrangler. I had the dealer install the powertrax "Lock right" unit. The powertrax clicking was rediculously loud and embarrasing when turning. Multiple people told me i might wanna have my jeep repaired (they knew nothing about lockers).
The clicking noise kept getting louder and louder, then eventually locked up.
I then installed a stock diff and sold it.
I built a 2010 4 door wrangler, and installed detroit lockers (not true-trac).
Detroits never made any clicking noises when turning. The powertrax is a cheap, affordable unit...but you get what you pay for.


Gotcha....but like I said, I've been running lockright & spartan lockers (same as powertrax) for over 20 yrs, with bigger tires and about 2x as much horsepower as they recommend in one of the trucks....never had any issues.

Not saying you did, but the only time I've ever seen one fail were:
1) it was not installed correctly...as in the clearances were not set right between the lock plates and the center pin, the guy just put the parts in based on the pics without checking....over time it got really loud, then wouldn't lock, then locked up hard
2) the center pin wasn't hardened, and it wore to the point the clearances got too large

Mine sometimes makes a loud clicking noise, but I am used to it, and I have had people ask me what's wrong with it, and I tell them what it is an why it does it, and have even been known to show them how it works.....they usually then want one.

The only reason detroits don't click as loud, is they have an extra layer of metal around the lock plates to dampen the noise....but they do click.....if they didn't, you wouldn't be able to turn. With a detroit, the clearances between the locking plates and the center pin don't have to be set, they are done at the factory....but you do have to set up gears...which I would prefer not to do.

Some of the detroit thing, is also cuz people think they are better cuz they have been around so long, they just put them in an miraculously can't hear the clicking, so they like them more.

I've seen just as many detroits fail, if not more, since they have been around longer. Bad thing is, when they fail , they usually take other $$$ stuff with it, like gears, carriers, axles, etc.

I've never had a detroit, but a good wheeling buddy of mine did, and when his went, it took out both rear axle shafts, the gears, the pass front axle u-joint, and jacked up his t-case. Granted, he was bound up pretty good with all the trucks weight on the rear axles, but still, he had to come down off the mountain on the hook, and when he got it all back together, no more detroit....he went full traction via about 5 lbs of welding rod in the spider gears.


Either way, good luck, both type lockers work pretty well, both can fail, but 1 is more $$ and requires much more expertise in setting, and you know which one that is.

I'm not even sure how much it would take to put either one in these trucks, as some require parts from previous years just to work, especially if you are working the front axle, which has the ring gear welded on.


.
 

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Gotcha....but like I said, I've been running lockright & spartan lockers (same as powertrax) for over 20 yrs, with bigger tires and about 2x as much horsepower as they recommend in one of the trucks....never had any issues.

Not saying you did, but the only time I've ever seen one fail were:
1) it was not installed correctly...as in the clearances were not set right between the lock plates and the center pin, the guy just put the parts in based on the pics without checking....over time it got really loud, then wouldn't lock, then locked up hard
2) the center pin wasn't hardened, and it wore to the point the clearances got too large

Mine sometimes makes a loud clicking noise, but I am used to it, and I have had people ask me what's wrong with it, and I tell them what it is an why it does it, and have even been known to show them how it works.....they usually then want one.

The only reason detroits don't click as loud, is they have an extra layer of metal around the lock plates to dampen the noise....but they do click.....if they didn't, you wouldn't be able to turn. With a detroit, the clearances between the locking plates and the center pin don't have to be set, they are done at the factory....but you do have to set up gears...which I would prefer not to do.

Some of the detroit thing, is also cuz people think they are better cuz they have been around so long, they just put them in an miraculously can't hear the clicking, so they like them more.

I've seen just as many detroits fail, if not more, since they have been around longer. Bad thing is, when they fail , they usually take other $$$ stuff with it, like gears, carriers, axles, etc.

I've never had a detroit, but a good wheeling buddy of mine did, and when his went, it took out both rear axle shafts, the gears, the pass front axle u-joint, and jacked up his t-case. Granted, he was bound up pretty good with all the trucks weight on the rear axles, but still, he had to come down off the mountain on the hook, and when he got it all back together, no more detroit....he went full traction via about 5 lbs of welding rod in the spider gears.


Either way, good luck, both type lockers work pretty well, both can fail, but 1 is more $$ and requires much more expertise in setting, and you know which one that is.

I'm not even sure how much it would take to put either one in these trucks, as some require parts from previous years just to work, especially if you are working the front axle, which has the ring gear welded on.


.

Oh im sure the jeep dealer didnt install my powertrax correctly. I had the dana 30 in the front of my 2010 wrangler, and thought i could bullet proof it. Installed synergy axle incerts, chromoly shafts, the detroit locker, and welded on a truss.
I also had to install 5:13 gears so my 3.8 mini van motor could turn the 37's. Spun the tires in the mud, and tore every tooth of my ring gear. You can bullwt proof something all you want, but the ring gear ends up bwing the weak point.
Contact area on a dana 30 5:13 gear is about 3/4". When i pulled my chromoly shafts, even the splines were twisted. But the detroit was fine. I was impressed.
I ran the vin on my ram tonight...I am lucky I have 3:92 gears and limited slip. This truck wont be going offroad, so ill leave the gears and limited slip alone.
This was my wrangler. I made the tubular steel flares, bumpers, and rock sliders.

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TRCM

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Oh im sure the jeep dealer didnt install my powertrax correctly.

Not sure how to take that statement.......but I don't trust 95% of the dealer techs to do anything as complicated as gear setup or locker install, no matter if it is a lunch box locker or not.


After I lunched that housing, I did let a dealer tech install my gears and everything as I didn't have the equipment to set up the gears again. I told him if he he had to take the ring gear off the carrier, to make sure and test fit it before bolting it back down, as 1 tooth had to be ground down on the high side to allow the center pin to slide in (common with 4.56 gears in a dodge corp 9 1/4 housing). Well, he didn't, and his solution was to grind abut 1/4" off the side if the center pin instead of pulling and rotating the ring gear to where it should have been. Not only did this weaken the center pin greatly, it also put so much clearance in the locker that it would not work....period.

He didn't get paid as much as he wanted, and I got a new center pin, ground down another tooth, and put it together as it needed to be. He seriously didn't think removing that metal would hurt anything.......even with a stock open diff, it would have let the spider gears move around and eventually cause major problems.


.
 

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I wasnt being sarcastic by any means. Dealer mechanics do not install gears everyday. Im positive the dealer mechanic didnt set up the powertrax locker correctly. Whenever i need gears installed, now i only go to a guy that only does differentials. Gear set up is a science, and must be done by a reputable gear mechanic.
 

Lee Peterson

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I had a Powertrax no-slip in my 3rd gen ram, it's uses synchronizes so no ratcheting noises. But I never liked all the extra driveshaft play it added. Id go with a Detroit Truetac
limited slip.
 

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I had a Powertrax in my 2nd gen Ram, unless they changed the design from the late ‘90s, it’s only good for a paper weight. The 4 pins that align the left & right side would shear, and after the 2nd time, the teeth were rounded over to the point it was unuseable. This was essentially a mall crawler on 36” TSLs, blew it out driving home one day in the snow.

I would continuously get people telling me I had a unjoint go out because of the ratcheting “clicking” noise.

The Detroit I put in after made some, but nothing like the Powertrax.
 
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