Anyone remove the steering knuckle? Help

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MoparSickness77

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I went to try and replace my lower ball joints today and my only problem was getting the steering knuckle off to get access to the LBJ.

The half shaft is in the way and I have no idea how to remove or and get it out of the way.

Has anyone done this and suggest what to do or how to do it?

I also have directions but they dont seem to be specific enough on what I need to do. Thanks
 

03MopaRamman

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Hmm, 07 is different than mine. on 02-05 if you remove brake caliper, rotor amd undo the upper ball joint followed by the 1/2 shaft nut then you can pry out the 1/2 shaft at the diff and slide inbound to pull the shaft out and away from the hub. Once that is done you can swing fwd the arm which gives you clear access to the joint. Press out old joint, press in new joint, re-assemble/torque. thats about it. 90 Minutes max but you need good tools. Sounds easy but I have had my shafts out at least 6 times.


So based on my experience this is the answer your Actual question.

1/2 shaft removal:

Step 1: Loosen the 1/2 shaft nut in the middle of the 4x4 hub. Big 3/4 inch Drive socket, 1 inch and 3/8. i use a 3/4 to 1/2 inch reducer so I can take advantage of my long powerbar. Take a big crow bar and run it from about 2 O'clock to 7 o'clock position dug into the driveway accross two of youe studs (this will allow you to torque off the nut) Undo the nut which is Torqued at 185 Ft Lbs using your powerbar with crowbar in position.

step 2. Rest a small prybar between the aluminum diff housing and the end of the 1/2 shaft pot near the diff accross the aluminum portion near the axle seal at the diff. With a second prybar stick inbetween the first bar and the pot and pry until the pot pops outward. wear gloves to save your knuckes and this method will avoid damaging the aluminum housing.

Step three: Pull the halfshaft pot away from the diff untill it clears off the splines (about 2 inches) and you may have to wiggle it all the way off). Once off take it ibound to clear the diff all the while pushing on the outbourd shaft end you removed the nut from until that clears out of the hub, continue holding the 1/2 shaft inbound ubtil you can get it out.

this is the best way to do it without removing the outer tie rod or shock (as per the Dodge manual).

good Luck
 

GhostRam94

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Hmm, 07 is different than mine. on 02-05 if you remove brake caliper, rotor amd undo the upper ball joint followed by the 1/2 shaft nut then you can pry out the 1/2 shaft at the diff and slide inbound to pull the shaft out and away from the hub. Once that is done you can swing fwd the arm which gives you clear access to the joint. Press out old joint, press in new joint, re-assemble/torque. thats about it. 90 Minutes max but you need good tools. Sounds easy but I have had my shafts out at least 6 times.


So based on my experience this is the answer your Actual question.

1/2 shaft removal:

Step 1: Loosen the 1/2 shaft nut in the middle of the 4x4 hub. Big 3/4 inch Drive socket, 1 inch and 3/8. i use a 3/4 to 1/2 inch reducer so I can take advantage of my long powerbar. Take a big crow bar and run it from about 2 O'clock to 7 o'clock position dug into the driveway accross two of youe studs (this will allow you to torque off the nut) Undo the nut which is Torqued at 185 Ft Lbs using your powerbar with crowbar in position.

step 2. Rest a small prybar between the aluminum diff housing and the end of the 1/2 shaft pot near the diff accross the aluminum portion near the axle seal at the diff. With a second prybar stick inbetween the first bar and the pot and pry until the pot pops outward. wear gloves to save your knuckes and this method will avoid damaging the aluminum housing.

Step three: Pull the halfshaft pot away from the diff untill it clears off the splines (about 2 inches) and you may have to wiggle it all the way off). Once off take it ibound to clear the diff all the while pushing on the outbourd shaft end you removed the nut from until that clears out of the hub, continue holding the 1/2 shaft inbound ubtil you can get it out.

this is the best way to do it without removing the outer tie rod or shock (as per the Dodge manual).

good Luck


Ok wo I'm trying to replace my 1/2 shafts and I'm a little confused where exactly to put th pry bars, both of my 1/2 shafts won't come out with a slight pull or little crow bar
 
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MoparSickness77

MoparSickness77

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So I just pull out the half shaft off the splines and it will be off? I was able to pull on it when I was working on it earlier and it seemed to be popping out where the rubber boot is covering, was that it coming out and I just had to pull a little more? Or are you saying to pry it off closer to the diff
 
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MoparSickness77

MoparSickness77

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I took pictures of what I have. Would I remove the 4 bolts that I have circled to remove the half shaft?
 

03MopaRamman

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So I just pull out the half shaft off the splines and it will be off? I was able to pull on it when I was working on it earlier and it seemed to be popping out where the rubber boot is covering, was that it coming out and I just had to pull a little more? Or are you saying to pry it off closer to the diff

EDit: I was still typing this when you posted pics above.

Where the Boots are are the inside knuckles, you don't want to pull or over bend those.

at the end of the shaft after the boot inbound and at the end is the Metal POT also refered to as a Hardy spicer. It is very large and then steps down to a smaller piece about an inch and a half in diameter at the very end.

Inside that piece is splined and in the middle about an inch it has a round slot.

The diff assy end is made of aluminum which is the housing.

Coming out of the housing is the Diff axle shaft which is through the seal and sticks out about 2 inches as well. It too is splined and has a circle cut into it about an inch into it or halfway from what you would see.

On that diff axle spline cutout sits a Circular C type clip.

The splined 1/2 shaft pot is slid onto the splined axle diff shaft until the diff axle clip meets the cutout spot inside the pot and then expands and clips into its place....This is what secures the 1/2 shaft in place.

In order to remove the halfshaft from the secured installed position, sufficient force must be applied to separate the two or allow the clip to be squeezed enough back into the cutout hole to be able to clear and travel out of the pot/the pot travel off the spline of the diff axle.

hopefully this makes sense. Once off you can look inside the pot and see the machined splines and the circle cutout on the 1/2 shaft.

the axle sticking out of the diff will have a rubber 0-ring and the clip remaining on it. Installation requires a good push until it clicks into place then you cannot pullit back out by hand only jiggle it ever so slightly back and forth indicating a good fit.
 
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03MopaRamman

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Ok wo I'm trying to replace my 1/2 shafts and I'm a little confused where exactly to put th pry bars, both of my 1/2 shafts won't come out with a slight pull or little crow bar

Further to Op last reply. You need to pry off the Pot away from the diff housing for the clip to be released. It takes a long bar with a screwdriver type end and curve pushed in between the pot and diff housing. There is alot of gap there so if you rest the pry bar onto the alum housing and pry you WILL damage the housing edge around the seal. To remedie this is where the second small bar placed accross the housing at 90% to take up that slack and allow even pressure on the housing as not to damage it. (EDIT: Now that I see the Pics you might be able to pry off that bolt stud but carefull not to FCUP the threads on it)

It takes a good pry but once you succeed you will then know the feeling.
When it pops you will punch your hand towards the engine craddle diff so you must be Gloved.

The other way is spend $70 for an OTC Fork type bar made for the Job with approprite shims to take up the wide gap between the Pot and Diff.
 
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GhostRam94

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Further to Op last reply. You need to pry off thePot away from the diff housing for the clip to be released. It takes a long bar with a screwdriver type end and curve pushed in between the pot and diff housing. There is alot of gap there so if you rest the pry bar onto the alum housing and pry you WIL damage the housing edge around the seal. To remedie this is where the second small bar placed accross the housing at 90% to take up that slack and allow even pressure on the housing as not to damage it.

It takes a good pry but once you succeed you will then know the feeling.
When it pops you will punch your hand towards the engine craddle diff so you must be Gloved.

The other way is spend $70 for an OTC Fork type bar made for the Job with approprite shims to take up the wide gap between the Pot and Diff.

Ok sweet, I'm try this in a bit, and when you gt it out the knew one clips right back into place?
 

03MopaRamman

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I took pictures of what I have. Would I remove the 4 bolts that I have circled to remove the half shaft?

Holy Rusting Jesus...Sorry.

That looks Tight. The diff set-up is way different looking from an 02-05 C205 Set-up but the 1/2 shaft looks identical to what the 02-05 have.

You do not need to remove those Bolts IMO and you can see the gap where I explained you need to get into to pry back the shaft.

My first comment only suggests that there could be some rust action inside the pot and on the splines but it should pop off.

I will stress the Importance of the 0-ring to keep water out of there and the use of antisieze on the splines for future removal.

I will also suggest a new clip if the rust is in there.MTF.

Hope all my yapping answers your questions and was not too complicated.
 
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03MopaRamman

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Ok sweet, I'm try this in a bit, and when you gt it out the knew one clips right back into place?

Yep if its clean splines. I always change to a new clip cause if your shaft pops out on roadtest you will rip a boot and have to start all over $$$$.

80 Cents at the Dealer is worth it even if your job is delayed along with a new o-ring.
 
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MoparSickness77

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Thanks for the awesome reply's :D Now I will see what I can do.
 
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