Audio Upgrade

[Witch]

Did you use the metra harness for the sub upgrade? I'm installing the same sub, have the harness which requires cutting the speaker ends..just wondering which wires are + and -

If just adding the sub you can get the two harnesses for the dual voice coil. They have black and white out. If adding an amp you can wire the sub in series ? That is what I did


Gray / Brown = + Left
Green/Brown = - Left
Green white = - Right
Grey White - + Right

 

[13bentarm]

I have the black\white out..which is positive? The sub I received has the studs you push and insert the wires, not the small\large clips.

 

[Witch]

They are the factory colors that go into the harness out side of the sub,

if just adding with out amp simply hook it up the same way you take it apart

 

[13bentarm]

I may not be explaining myself clearly. I plug the metra into the trucks factory end. The metra has black and white wires with slip on ends. I have to cut these ends off and expose the wire. The sub has + and - push terminal studs. Which wire, black or white, is going in the positive stud?

 

[Witch]

Trace them back to the harness,

I gave you the factory colors above

You have to remove the enclosure to see the connector. just two 18mm bolts

While you have it open grab some fiber fill, defiantly helps, but with out adding an amp there is not a whole lot of difference

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Poly-Fil...75035&wl11=online&wl12=17808671&wl13=&veh=sem

 

[EvilTwin v2]

Thanks for the great posts. I just upgraded my dash speakers with the Infinity Reference REF-3032CFX. (I have one extra, if anybody is interested.)

I also ordered the Kappa 6x9's for the front doors, and I replaced the subwoofer with a Rockford Fosgate Punch P3SD2-8. I'm not sure the factory amplifier has enough power to really let the RF sub shine.

The dash speakers and sub already made a huge difference. I know people commented that they didn't think the doors would be as drastic of a difference. While its true that it won't be as big a difference, I've listened closely to the door speakers, and like every other speaker in this truck, they seem "muddy" and just not accurate at reproducing the music I want to hear. I know before I'm done, I'll have replaced all of them, Including the rear doors and ceiling. These factory speakers are just plain terrible.

I'll update as I go.
I have also purchased enough NVX sound damper material to line the entire cab and doors. If you've never used similar products, the results are incredible. I once gutted and lined the entire interior of a Toyota Celica with a 1500watt (rms) system and a single 15. It hit hard, but you could barely hear it, from outside the car, at full volume when the windows were up.

Update - 4-23-18:
Sonic Electronics upgraded my 6x9’s to the Kappa 931x. While they claim on their site that the fit, they do not, can not, will not fit the front doors, due to proximity to the window track. They will however fit the rear door, with just a slight bit of trimming.

 

[Witch]

Sounds nice, did you fit that sub in the factory enclosure ?

Defiantly will be able to tell the difference on better door speakers from a clarity stand point , but not louder

 

[EvilTwin v2]

Sounds nice, did you fit that sub in the factory enclosure ?

Defiantly will be able to tell the difference on better door speakers from a clarity stand point , but not louder

The RF sub fit perfectly in the factory enclosure.

The new front door speakers came today. I’ll treat the doors while I have the panels off.

I dabbled a bit in IASCA and dB Drag back in the 90’s. I past the point of needing loud (had a 300ZX that easily hit 142db with a sound quality setup). Now I just want it to sound good.

 

[Witch]

Agree, I just am looking for a nice clean sound that can hit highs and lows with out struggling

 

[ChrisM101]

I have the black\white out..which is positive? The sub I received has the studs you push and insert the wires, not the small\large clips.

color is positive, color with black or black is negative

 

[2010 Infantry Vet]

Sounds nice, did you fit that sub in the factory enclosure ?

Defiantly will be able to tell the difference on better door speakers from a clarity stand point , but not louder

I installed rockford T2 6.5" components in my front doors, and rockford power 3 way components in my rear doors. I have a kicker 120 rms x 4 amp (birth sheet said 170 rms x 4) and they are amazing. I was blown away over the factory speakers. The rear 6x9 and front 6.5 have enough bass at this point, and I am very happy with not even having a sub. A strong amp makes all the difference!!!
Im sure down the road I will add a JL audio 10W6 single sub for bass.

 

[EvilTwin v2]

I couldn’t fit the Infinity Kappa 931x 6x9’s in the front doors, but with a little trimming, they fit in the rear.
I’m going to go with a 6.5” in the front doors.
I’m also not terribly happy with the factory sub enclosure. It just doesn’t offer the control that a sealed sub should have. It’s been almost 20 years since I’ve messed with it, but it looks like it’s time to lay some fiberglass and build a custom sealed enclosure.

The NVX Sound Deadener is making a huge difference. I’ve only done the left doors so far.

 

[Witch]

say it ain't so, stay with 6x9's

you will never be happy with the bass of a 6.5" s

There are some nice 6x9 component sets available as well

 

[BWL]

6.5s will put out plenty of bass and give you better mid range. Especially if you're running a subwoofer. At least in my opinion.

 

[2010 Infantry Vet]

6.5s will put out plenty of bass and give you better mid range. Especially if you're running a subwoofer. At least in my opinion.

I have 170 rms powering my rockford T2 6.5 components in my front doors with no dynomat, and was amazed at the bass they produced! Running a powerful amp to door speakers makes a world of difference. When i have time, i will soundproof my front doors.

 

[shadowhawk]

revival here, but one new post suggested using resistors on the dash speakers. I have the reference REF-3032cfx. Do I really need resistors?

 

[BWL]

revival here, but one new post suggested using resistors on the dash speakers. I have the reference REF-3032cfx. Do I really need resistors?

Try them out and if you find them to be too bright then put them in. If they sound good to you then don't. They are not a requirement just a way to quiet them down if they're too loud compared to the rest of the speakers at a given volume.

 

[shadowhawk]

fair enough