Brake Controller

[Kwhite]

Heres a web site i found and for you guys that know way more than me about the modules and such check it out and let me know what you think, i put my Vin number in and it brings up all the wiring , https://techauthorityonlinedemo.extra.chrysler.com/service/repair/wiring/view/classic.htm

 

[Kwhite]

and what did that get you?



You will need the Prodigy cable 3024-P which allows you to plug into the factory brake controller harness and the Prodigy P2 or P3 brake controller. I have not done this yet, will this weekend, but I understand once you disconnect the ITBM you will set DTCs and cause the check engine light to come on. I don't know if this condition will cause side-effects.

You could ask your dealer to reconfigure your truck without the ITBM but I'm sure their hand will go out.

Ok thanks, please let me know how it works

 

[BossHogg]

Really a buy back for a brake controller I do not think that will happen, not with out much aggravation of time spent trying to get that to happen jumping threw all the hoops and BS required. Not to mention your truck not able to tow your trailer while you are fighting with RAM!
This should be reported to all agencies I posted if you are truly concerned about your safety and others on the highway which you are responsible for when you tow anything and the load you maybe carrying!

Yes, a buy-back. I've already spoke with an attorney about the issue. Each state has their own lemon laws, in Michigan I can force a buy-back if they cannot fix the issue after four attempts or 30 days in dealer service, whichever comes first. I don't want to do a buy-back, I'll take a fix or a refund for the cost of the ITBM.

As you suggested, I already filed with the NTSB because of the safety issue. The BBB has no interest in this issue. I'm currently working with Chrysler, another member provided a Chrysler contact. I want to run this course before I take any other actions.[/QUOTE]

NOW BACK TO THE PROBLEM

BOSSHOGG

If you say it comes from relay module on the main electrical distribution Circuit= BUS OR BUSS.

Then why not eliminate all the circuitry out of the problem and try running a fused power wire directly to factory brake controller and see if problem is FIXED???

AS I mentioned there may not simply be enough amps threw all the interconnections of the power distribution relay module to give FULL amps to the controller.

KWhite posted a popular web link where anyone can look up the schematic of their vehicle's electrical architecture. This will show how the trailing wiring power is sourced. The graph of the ITBM's ouptut is linear and its behavior does not demonstrate a current starvation issue. This is confirmed by using a trailer brake simulator which only pulls 2 amps at 12 volts.

I mostly deal with German Electrical power since my company services several brands of metal working machinery,lathes,milling machines,surface and cylindrical grinders. We also design and build custom automation systems and robotic systems. I am capable of component level repair of circuit board repairs with associates degree in electronics.

Impressive. I too have a background with electronics and software. I'm retired from GM Powertrain (2006) and now work for a tier one automotive supplier. I lead a team of eight engineers responsible for the electric system architecture and functional integration of a common architecture used in several Ford vehicle platforms. I've been designing hardware and software for just over 40 years and hold a BS in electrical engineering, MS in electrical engineering, BS in software engineering, and a MS in technical management.[/QUOTE]

Frankly BOSSHOGG I do not care if you ever get your problem sorted, as I no longer have a RAM with inferior factory brake controller. You criticize people for trying to help

WOW! Don't understand your hostility and I certantly never criticzed you, I looked back through the thread and didn't see anything that could have offended you.

By the way, BUS (n.) and BUSS (v.) have very different meanings and definitions.

 

[BossHogg]

Ok thanks, please let me know how it works

Just got done installing the P2 using the 3024P cable. Plug and play, the 3024 plugs into the connector that plugs into the ITBM. I found instructions on how to access the ITBM here 2013 integrated trailer brake control problem - Page 5 - Dodge Cummins Diesel Forum

I have trailer brakes, now we can go on vacation next week. Here is where I located the P2.



So far, no warning lights but that could be just a matter of ignition cycles before I get an indicator, have to wait and see.

 

[Kwhite]

Thats good news , what year is your truck?

 

[BossHogg]

Thats good news , what year is your truck?

Mine is a 2015 and I have a 1500 2013. The ITBM is in the same location on both vehicles.

 

[Kwhite]

Mine is a 2015 and I have a 1500 2013. The ITBM is in the same location on both vehicles.

Ok thank you

 

[Neumie]

Is the factory controller working for anyone?!

 

[Upthewazzu]

I have a 2015 with stock brake controller and it seems to work just fine. I tow a 5000lb+ trailer. It's set to light electric, gain is 4.0

 

[3KQ]

I have a 2014 3500 DRW CCD and just towed heavy today for the first time using the factory brake control. What I noticed right away was the faster and stronger response from my factory control vs. my Tekonsha on the Chev 2500 with the same trailer. Reading this post I first tried the max gain setting but that would lock up all three axles on my 2014 Raptor (384 PK toy hauler at about 16,300 lbs.). I had to turn down the gain to 6 and it was still a little stronger than the aftermarket control. All in all, I really enjoyed the towing experience getting to our RV park destination and the brakes on mine seem to work great. Has anyone seen this degrade over time with the factory control or when they are bad, they start out that way?

 

[PippinAin'tEasy]

Being in the market for a '15 or '16 full ton (hopefully a Ram) has turned up a mixed bag of these reports. So far I would guess it's 70/30 satisfied to not with this issue and that's only those who have found the internet. At least it seems to be an issue right out of the gate as opposed to one that develops over time.

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[BossHogg]

Being in the market for a '15 or '16 full ton (hopefully a Ram) has turned up a mixed bag of these reports.

There is a reason different successes are reported. The problem with the ITBM is it stops providing braking after 63% or around seven volts output. Success depends on what your trailer brakes require. My 18 foot flat bed utility trailer will lock up the wheels with six volts, thus the ITBM works perfectly with this trailer.

My fifth wheel with Dexter axles and 12 inch brakes requires 10.5 volts to stop the wheels (testing with my Prodigy P2 in my 2015 RAM3500), because of the limitation of the ITBM stopping at seven volts I only get a braking drag, insufficient for a harder stop.

 

[BossHogg]

I have a 2014 3500 DRW CCD and just towed heavy today for the first time using the factory brake control. What I noticed right away was the faster and stronger response from my factory control vs. my Tekonsha

The ITBM issue discussed in this thread is limited to the 2015 model year (possibly the 2016s), for MY15 RAM redesigned the ITBM back to the traditional four wire and standard brake signal. The ITBM in my 2013 RAM works as expected.

 

[PippinAin'tEasy]

So I guess the sound advice would be forego the factory controller from jump and go straight for the p2?

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[jadocs]

So no issues with the 2014's then? That's good to know.

 

[3KQ]

As stated mine does work well with the 2014 Raptor and my 2014 3500. But as has been discussed, each trailer can be a different experience. Since the electronic trailer brakes on an axle are electro-magnetic operated to create drag on the interior of the brake drum, each trailer will be slightly different. Some that are newer and with the brakes being adjusted a little tighter may have a greater response with lower voltage and thus are great with the factory control. An older trailer, with brakes not as tight and magnets that may not be as strong will require more voltage to be effective. In this case the factory control may not be as effective if it does not put out the higher voltage needed. So bottom line, it depends on what your towing and the voltage needs of the brakes.

 

[Kwhite]

Ok guys heres an update, just left the dealers and they changed out the module as they said they would do when i went there last week, i took my camper with me to the dealers so i could know right away, huge improvement in braking the tech said mine was not the first one and he showed me the differences with the setup between light electric and heavy etc. he said you will not be able to lock the trailer brakes when your moving because the ibtm is tied into the trucks anti lock system, but now if im stopped and hold the controller at 100% the wheels are locked, iif you bring up your contollers setting screen on the radio and the percentage screen on the main dash and hold the brake pedal down (with your trailer hooked up) so that it shows 50% seitch your settings between the light and heavy electric and you will see the percentage change, i did this while driving and felt the difference from the trailer, have my controller set to heavy electric on 8 for gain and it seems good, i did a bunch of brake tests on the way home and tried to simulate hard stops, its not like last years setup but it works 100% better than before they fixed it, the part number for the new module is 68237782-ab, im sure i will be fine tuning adjustments but we will see im still a little apprehensive lol

 

[BossHogg]

he said you will not be able to lock the trailer brakes when your moving because the ibtm is tied into the trucks anti lock system

the part number for the new module is 68237782-ab,

That doesn't sound right, the ABS system uses wheel sensors to detect a locked wheel and wheel speed. The trailer doesn't have these sensors or any wiring to support them making it impossible for the ITBM to know if the trailer wheels are locked.

Thanks for the update, good news. I'll need to take a look at the part number on my ITBM and see if it is the same or not. If not, I'll need to find a dealer that is willing to put in a new ITBM.

 

[Kwhite]

That doesn't sound right, the ABS system uses wheel sensors to detect a locked wheel and wheel speed. The trailer doesn't have these sensors or any wiring to support them making it impossible for the ITBM to know if the trailer wheels are locked.

Thanks for the update, good news. I'll need to take a look at the part number on my ITBM and see if it is the same or not. If not, I'll need to find a dealer that is willing to put in a new ITBM.

I'm still not completely comfortable with it and they could be blowing smoke also as far as the antilock thing, I'll know better once I take a trip, I still may get a P3 just in case !!!

 

[PippinAin'tEasy]

Is the ABS not taking in the info first before sending voltage to the trailer? In a sense I guess the trailer brakes become an extension of the system relying on the info from the truck.

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