Cam and Lifters: Is it Easier to Pull the Motor

[Black Mutt]

Hey Guys, I've got a 2012 5.7 Hemi and I gotta replace the cam and lifters. I have some experience and the shop equipment so I am doing the job myself. I'm just looking for input on whether it's easier to do the job with the motor in the truck or if I should pull the motor and put it on the stand.

 

[WadXpress]

I think their are pictures of Matt from moes doing it with it still in the truck. I don't know first hand myself. Good luck

 

[nateinva]

Are you replacing factory or upgrading? If you decide on headers and a converter at the same time I'd say pull it.

If just replacing stock, no need to rip it out....can be done tearing it down but by the time you get there it 'might've' looked easier to pull...lol

Good luck, just dealt with it all on my 2011.

 

[chrisp2493]

It’s way easier to do the work on the cam and especially getting the heads torqued back down when it’s on an engine stand. But it’s gonna add a ton of time to the whole process. You can definitely do it on the truck, it makes it a lot easier if you remove the radiator and maybe even the front cross brace to have more room to work. I would unhook the exhaust manifolds from the downpipe but leave them installed on the head for removal. That way you don’t have to fight the manifold bolts on the truck. Chances are there are a few broken bolts there anyways


I Bleed Ram Trucks

 

[Black Mutt]

I will be replacing with stock parts. I live in California and he smog rules suck. Thanks for the suggestion to keep the exhaust manifolds on the heads. I was dreading trying to get to those bolts.

Any other tips are greatly appreciated!

 

[S0CAL]

@charonblk07 is your man. He did a DIY on this. He did not pull the engine, and has a ton of good advice.

 

[chrisp2493]

http://www.ramforum.com/threads/how-to-4th-gen-hemi-cam-installation.82531/


I Bleed Ram Trucks

 

[Ramnewbie]

It’s way easier to do the work on the cam and especially getting the heads torqued back down when it’s on an engine stand. But it’s gonna add a ton of time to the whole process. You can definitely do it on the truck, it makes it a lot easier if you remove the radiator and maybe even the front cross brace to have more room to work. I would unhook the exhaust manifolds from the downpipe but leave them installed on the head for removal. That way you don’t have to fight the manifold bolts on the truck. Chances are there are a few broken bolts there anyways


I Bleed Ram Trucks

Just me but I'd add a set of shorties. Theoretically should eliminate any future broken manifold bolts.

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[Black Mutt]

The motor is at 130K. While doing the job, I intend to replace the water pump, thermostat, tensioner and belt. I'll also address any broken manifold bolts or studs. What are your thoughts on replacing the oil pump and timing chain? Can you even change the oil pump or will the sump create a problem? Any other items I should address while everything is apart?

 

[Burla]

I'd get some CARB headers ok in cali. I'd leave the motor in if I could. If your gonna pull it you would be crazy not to rebuild the whole enchilada especially rings not just cam/lifters!!!

 

[Burla]

If your gonna do all that, mise well at least hear a little rumble with some approved headers.

 

[Ramnewbie]

If your gonna do all that, mise well at least hear a little rumble with some approved headers.

Oh yeah, I forgot about commifornia, have to be "approved" . That used to be a nice state.

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[Fitz-0518]

Yep and effective 2017 Star Smog shops must first inspect the vehicle for "modification" Modifications must be CARB approved and the owner must show proof that the mod comply s with CARB. (the yellow stickers) If the vehicle can not pass the inspection step, tech can not smog check. It realy gets interesting/frustrating when some techs do not know what to look for. My neighbor had to take his "modified" Mustang to 3 shops before he found one that realy understood the step 1 inspection rules and what to check. Socialist Marxist rules. (Getting out)

 

[Burla]

The thing that ****** me off to no end is that smog checks don't even test for smog, you have to pay 80 bucks for a mechanic to look under the hood and say yup, good to go. Soccer mom's have ruined the world with their naive voting. They are too stupid to even see what the mechanics actually do. I guess keep the receipt for the CARB approved upgrades in the glove compartment for the commies to ok it.

 

[nateinva]

The motor is at 130K. While doing the job, I intend to replace the water pump, thermostat, tensioner and belt. I'll also address any broken manifold bolts or studs. What are your thoughts on replacing the oil pump and timing chain? Can you even change the oil pump or will the sump create a problem? Any other items I should address while everything is apart?

I'd replace them......relatively small cost in parts while it's all staring at you. Agree on the headers as well....lol