Changed AT fluid, now won't shift

[svdsinner]

I just did a test drive in my '98 2500 gas (5.9L) 4x4. I just replaced the catalytic converter and both O2 sensors, put on a new AT fluid filter and new fluid.

After a brief run, I topped off the AT fluid and fixed the front O2 sensor (I didn't have the plug fully connected)
I cleared the ECU errors that the bad O2 sensor caused, and the engine ran fine with no codes.

However, the transmission now doesn't want to shift out of first.

Is this a known issue from me doing something dumb? Would the ECU keep the transmission in limp mode after I cleared the fault codes? Do I need to somehow bleed air from the system from somewhere?

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[19Ram150098]

what type of fluid did you use? also what method did you use to clear the codes, did u unhook the battery, or did u use a code scanner? also when you changed the filter, did u by any chance touch or knock loose any solenoids plugs or wires?

 

[dapepper9]

System will self bleed air. I as well am curious what fluid was used, dodge is pretty particular here.

Also, was a band adjustment done?

Lastly, how did you measure it during filling? If the truck was NOT in neutral you did it completely wrong and likely screwed the fluid level. Personally, i find this the much more likely issue. Not trying to call you incompetent or anything like that, i apologize if i come off blunt, it's just common. Lots of guys are used to one platform or system, pick up a different one and think the same stuff translates when it doesn't always

 

[dudeman2009]

+1 to check the fluid level in neutral. Everyone else wants you to check it in park, but these are weird and won't pump in park without valve body mods.

If the seals are starting to go in the accumulators its possible depending on how long you had it draining that air got into them. In which case it can take up to 20 miles to fully bleed out the air.

How much crud was on the magnet in the pan?

 

[svdsinner]

System will self bleed air. I as well am curious what fluid was used, dodge is pretty particular here.

Also, was a band adjustment done?

Lastly, how did you measure it during filling? If the truck was NOT in neutral you did it completely wrong and likely screwed the fluid level. Personally, i find this the much more likely issue. Not trying to call you incompetent or anything like that, i apologize if i come off blunt, it's just common. Lots of guys are used to one platform or system, pick up a different one and think the same stuff translates when it doesn't always

This is a situation that I'll happily own up to being an incompetent hack. I wasn't planning on changing the AT fluid, but while removing the old Catalytic converter, I (quiet stupidly) accidentally put a hole in the transmission pan and dumped the existing fluid all over myself and my driveway. (Not a proud moment in my DIY history l
) I welded the hole and decided to change the filter and gasket while I had the pan off. I bought a couple of gallons of Valvoline Max life Multi Vehicle Full Synthetic, and filled it until the dipstick showed the proper full level with the transmission in park, engine off. I did no other adjustments.

So, sounds like I probably need to refill it with the transmission in N. Engine on or off?

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[bulrid8]

This is a situation that I'll happily own up to being an incompetent hack. I wasn't planning on changing the AT fluid, but while removing the old Catalytic converter, I (quiet stupidly) accidentally put a hole in the transmission pan and dumped the existing fluid all over myself and my driveway. (Not a proud moment in my DIY history l
) I welded the hole and decided to change the filter and gasket while I had the pan off. I bought a couple of gallons of Valvoline Max life Multi Vehicle Full Synthetic, and filled it until the dipstick showed the proper full level with the transmission in park, engine off. I did no other adjustments.

So, sounds like I probably need to refill it with the transmission in N. Engine on or off?

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Engine running and warmed up. Tranny needs ran through all gears to warm it up. Then place in neutral and check level. Only use atf+4 in it. Also make sure filter is seated correctly and that the old oring did not stay in the hole.

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[dapepper9]

Engine running and warmed up. Tranny needs ran through all gears to warm it up. Then place in neutral and check level. Only use atf+4 in it. Also make sure filter is seated correctly and that the old oring did not stay in the hole.

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This. And, since you can weld... do yourself a quick favor while you're at it. Drill a hole and weld a nut on for a drain hole. A million times easier next time. Do NOT use rtv either. Idc what anybody else says, of any particles get into the pressure lines of a valvebody it's a major bear and hassle to diagnose and fix. Totally different than using on an engine

 

[Kickkem]

Keep in mind that when you change the Tranny fluid the new fluid cuts loose all kinds of crud which could plug the Valve Body. I would change it again or have it flushed, easier although not cheaper. I have had several friends who had the flush and then problems, but the second flush worked out fine. Best of luck!

 

[Pntyrmvr]

You’ve jammed up the governor by starting it up and putting it in a forward gear first. Start it in neutral and then go to to reverse.

To fix it without doing the fluid again drive it and stuff it into reverse a few times at low speed.

Don’t believe me? Google it.


"Talk is cheap. Whiskey costs money."

 

[Max78]

So have other people used this brand/type (DEX/MERC) of trans fluid in these transmissions with success?

I bought MOPAR ATF+4 at the dealer because they price matched plus took an extra 10% off. I was willing to pay the premium to know 100% it is the correct fluid.

If you didn't do a complete drain and flush then how is this fluid reacting to whatever fluid is in there? Do you have a mix of ATF +4 and merc?

Just something to be aware of.