Changing transmission fluid for the first time since ? - Good or bad?

[Lethalweapon100]

Hey everybody. This question kind of applies to any 46/47/48 RE/RH transmission.

When I got my truck it had 205K on the clock, probably its 2nd 46RE. So, I dropped the pan and changed the fluid and filter. Since I did it the first time, I try to do it at least once every 12K. My pan has an aftermarket drain plug, so sometimes I just drain and refill if I did the filter relatively recently.

Now, it seems like every time I mention the fact that I do this to somebody, they make a huge point of "that's bad, you shouldn't do that." Every time, their reasoning is the old idea that changing the fluid/filter/dropping the pan "stirs up all the crap" and will end up taking out the tranny faster than if you didn't change the fluid.

I can see how this makes sense if you were to flush a non-serviceable transmission (meaning no detachable pan), but I'm curious as to the truth to this when you can drop the pan and clean it/the magnet and change the filter.

Thanks all! Only asking because I may be picking up a 1st Gen that will be seeing tranny work.

 

[dodge dude94]

The way I look at it is that if you don't know the service history and it works, don't mess with it.
If it is already experiencing issues, give it a shot.
And if you know the history, do it.

 

[dudeman2009]

You will never hurt a transmission with a PROPER service. Dropping the pan and cleaning it out and replacing the filter if its time, will not hurt the transmission. I've heard guys say that if the fluid is brown you should not change it at all. Which is stupid, oil eventually loses its ability to clean and lubricate. The 'flush' that most oil change places provide, is crap. A transmission shop will likely do it properly.

Even on a 'non-serviceable' transmission, there are ways to properly service it.

A transmission is no different than an engine or differential, there is metal on metal contact, with that, metal debris.

Part of this idea may have come from a long time ago when the average car rarely lasted long enough to need a transmission oil change. Most people don't know anything about their vehicles, ask them what happens when they push the gas pedal, and most will tell you it revs up but have no clue how.

I would keep doing what you're doing, with the frequent contact with your transmission, you are likely to see any problems right as they arise and can still be repaired without any major damage.

As for the old mopar you are looking at getting, same thing.

 

[shortlid]

Pan with drain plug

Any advice for a inexpensive tranny pan with a drain plug. I also don't want to have to drop the pan everytime I want to drain and refill ATF in my 1998 1500 4X4.

 

[Lethalweapon100]

Any advice for a inexpensive tranny pan with a drain plug. I also don't want to have to drop the pan everytime I want to drain and refill ATF in my 1998 1500 4X4.

The one I have is the stock pan with a hole drilled in it with some sort of drain plug contraption. Not sure who makes it, but it sure is handy.

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[Lethalweapon100]

The way I look at it is that if you don't know the service history and it works, don't mess with it.
If it is already experiencing issues, give it a shot.
And if you know the history, do it.

What if i dont know the history, it works fine, but the fluid smells burned and looks like crap?

I mean, dropping the pan and giving it a good clean/band adjustment and then changing the fluid again in 5-10K miles is what I would do. And then follow a regular, longer change interval after that.

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[dodge dude94]

What if i dont know the history, it works fine, but the fluid smells burned and looks like crap?

I mean, dropping the pan and giving it a good clean/band adjustment and then changing the fluid again in 5-10K miles is what I would do. And then follow a regular, longer change interval after that.

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Well, if it's burnt then it kinda falls under the category of not working, because being burnt that trans will start acting up soon.

I'd drop the pan and filter, but put the pan back on it and let it drip overnight. Hell, if you want to, there's supposed to be a plug on the TC that you can bump the engine over and drain.
Then your general band adjustment and fill 'er up.

 

[Lethalweapon100]

Well, if it's burnt then it kinda falls under the category of not working, because being burnt that trans will start acting up soon.

I'd drop the pan and filter, but put the pan back on it and let it drip overnight. Hell, if you want to, there's supposed to be a plug on the TC that you can bump the engine over and drain.
Then your general band adjustment and fill 'er up.

I see what you're saying now. Cool. Thanks man.

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[dodge dude94]

I see what you're saying now. Cool. Thanks man.

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Np man. I wish you the best of luck in your endeavor.

OH, and you'll want to buy at least a 8 qts.

I don't care what anyone says, when I did MINE, it took 7.5 to fill.

 

[Lethalweapon100]

Np man. I wish you the best of luck in your endeavor.

OH, and you'll want to buy at least a 8 qts.

I don't care what anyone says, when I did MINE, it took 7.5 to fill.

With or without TC drain?

Also, it fell through, I can't swing the cash right now . Its okay though, good information to know.

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[dudeman2009]

If its burnt, look at the front band when you have the pan off. You should be able to see up there around the valve body with a small enough light. If it looks like there is no space between the band and sun gear, then that is probably where the burning has come from. The band is 30 some dollars. I'm still not sure if you can replace it without dropping the trans, I haven't gotten around to doing mine yet.
Still gotta get a couple days off for the repair in case I screw something up.

If I remember, i'll let you know if it can be done, I don't see why not, I was able to get it half off a month ago when I dropped the valve body.

 

[dapepper9]

I believe you can change the front without dropping but not the rear. May need to drop the valvebody but that's not too awfully crazy. Rear should be the one that is a problem but double check the fsm

 

[shortlid]

Anyone know who makes thedain plug adapter?

 

[dapepper9]

I just swapped to a B&M pan with a drain plug and temp sensor port. I like it. Extra 1.5qt capacity and cooling fins

 

[shortlid]

I just swapped to a B&M pan with a drain plug and temp sensor port. I like it. Extra 1.5qt capacity and cooling fins

how much was it?

 

[Max78]

Changing transmission fluid will only ever reveal an existing problem, never does it cause a problem when done correctly. Transmission fluid wears out and loses its ability to lubricate and protect (just like motor oil) which in turn causes excess wear on all the components (bearings, gears, etc...). I have seen automatic transmissions that have been regularly serviced outlast manual transmissions that have been abused and vice versa.


If you look inside an automatic transmission there are friction plates just like the friction plate that exists on a manual transmission, those plates wear out over time and should be replaced, just the same as a clutch disk. More often that not on the higher mileage transmissions the fluid is never changed and that friction material has worn off the plates and is now suspended in the fluid. Changing that "friction fluid" could cause your worn out friction plates to start to slip as there is no more friction material left on the plates or in the system. There is no way to tell how worn your friction plates are other than to remove and inspect, which at that point you might as well replace.


If you look at an automation transmission, aside from the valve body (which you rarely need to touch) they are probably more simple than a standard transmission.


Changing very dirty fluid could cause your transmission to start to show the effects of worn friction plates, not changing it could result in pitted bearings and gears driving up the price of the rebuild.

Keeping the fluid fresh and clean will insure you get the max out of your transmission!

 

[dudeman2009]

I believe you can change the front without dropping but not the rear. May need to drop the valvebody but that's not too awfully crazy. Rear should be the one that is a problem but double check the fsm

I looked at the rear when I dropped the valvebody, there is no way you are getting that thing out without dropping it. But usually that isn't the one that goes bad, in my experience and reading around.

The hardest part about dropping the valve body, is remembering to unplug the case connector first. Snapped that stupid retaining tab on mine. No problem though, doesn't do much.

But if others don't want to break theirs, unplug the case connector before you do anything and wipe it off. Then when you are lowering the valvebody, push down on the case connector from the outside on top. That should keep it from breaking.

 

[dodge dude94]

With or without TC drain?

Also, it fell through, I can't swing the cash right now . Its okay though, good information to know.

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That's with a 1hr drip, not a tc drain