Cost of axle rebuilds

[Yeret]

Yeah, I know that prices will vary depending on where you go but I'd like to get a ballpark estimate as to what it would cost to rebuild a Dana 44 and Chrysler 9.25 inch.

Now, what I want to do is obviously have all bearings and seals replaced but I want to swap the gears in both axles to something like 3.92 or 4.10 ratio. In addition, I want to swap the open rear carrier to a limited slip.

If I were to go to a reputable shop, what could I expect to pay? I'm thinking somewhere between $2-3,000. Does this seem about right?

My rear axle has developed a noticeable howl while driving around at city speeds and I'm thinking I'm going to want to start setting some cash aside real soon. Oh, and yeah, I totally want to enhance my acceleration via shorter gears.

 

[2kDodgeRam]

I just had my rear diff done two weeks ago in Chantilly, Virginia. To keep it OEM, it cost $1,650 for the rear axle only. I got a quote to convert to 4.10 and it would have been $3,700 for both front and rear. Parts were about $300 more per axle for the 4.10 conversion.

 

[dapepper9]

I got quoted 22-2500 for both axles, truetrack, full rebuild wth good gears

 

[Yeret]

You're in the Iowa area. Where did you get your axles built at?

 

[dapepper9]

You're in the Iowa area. Where did you get your axles built at?

I'm from the Sioux City area but at the moment I'm in Knoxville, Tennessee for some work training. Seeing as ill be here for a month and wouldn't need the truck during the week i took the opportunity to have em done here. Probably not the wisest choice 1000 miles from home but i guys we'll find out

 

[smiley]

$1000 an axle if you provide the parts would be about right. I just did my the rear only and it was $750 in labor and two bearings I forgot plus the new gears and rebuild kit and fluid. Came in just above $1000. Again I sourced almost all the parts and fluid so take that into account.

 

[dapepper9]

My quote was without sourcing parts. BUT, i had both axle rebuild kits that were brand new and compete aside from the front needing a passenger shaft seal because my solid shaft changes the pn. I also had the truetrack. Guy i went to doesn't like using customer parts for various reasons including but not limited to brand choice, part completeness and accuracy, etc. Told him I'm totally cool with him sourcing parts, whatever he feels most comfortable with. He asked me a bunch of questions to get a better idea of what exactly i wanted, more vehicle info and i personally think he was testing me. Apparently i surprised him because after talking he said he was willing to use my parts because i was more educated than the average yahoos he deals with. But i told him from the get go if something isn't working out with my parts, throw em back in the box. Get the right parts you need and ill my junk parts back to Iowa and deal with em later whilst chalking it up as a learning experience. I've budgeted assuming my parts wouldn't be used.

I guess we'll find out tomorrow though

 

[smiley]

Many guys want to make money on the parts and the labor too. I get that but I like to hand select every component personally. From bearing brand down to the type of pinion seal used. When I did mine I also converted the design to spacers rather than a crush sleeve. Much better design assuming you have your truck worked on places outside of the dealer. If the dealer sees a bunch of spacers they will freak and probably f up your truck like the time they did mine and essentially caused me a overhaul of the rearend even though I only had about 100k on the Nitro 4.56 gears they just got too messed up from failed dealers attempts to correct the setup after recalls etc. if you happen to regear I do not recommend ever going to a dealer.

Btw my Ram has the same rear but different front axle shouldn't matter much for price I would
guess about the same. I have 8 inch Corp in front if I recall correctly.