Curt Hitch initial setup questions.

[OC455]

I picked up our camper today and the Curt Trutrack hitch. I'm pretty sure it isn't setup the way it should. The truck felt like it was porpoising when I was towing it and felt like it was towing pretty hard even in the tow/haul switch activated.

I think this is the first time the dealer has used the TruTrack or set one up.

I think I am going to take it down to a level area at the FD and set it up the way the video explains how to do it.

Any suggestions at this point? I know I am going to check for one of the locations to weight everything out as well. I just want to set it right before I get in trouble.

 

[crash68]

You can measure the height of the front of the truck unloaded and then loaded with the WDH on to get you close on adjustment. Running the truck over the CAT scales will tell you the whole tale. You may have to adjust the weight transfer to the front wheels and/or the tongue weight to smooth the ride out.
The Tow/Haul mode adjusts the transmission shift point to stay higher in the engine's torque band. I would imagine with the Hemi the RPMs will probably be upwards of 5K depending on how hard you accelerate (with the EcoDiesel, it's usually around 3K).

 

[OC455]

I wasn't pushing it too hard. Going to look up where to find the CAT scales.

 

[OC455]

If I keep everything under 6000lbs loaded (tow weight) I don't think I should have much of an issue as far as maxing out the towing capacity for the truck. I'm not too keen on how Curt WDH is set at this point.

 

[OC455]

Yup, reading up and watching the boobtube videos, definitely not setup the way it is supposed to be. I think tomorrow I will be re-doing it all to get it right.

 

[crash68]

Even if push upwards of your trailer GVWR(7600lbs) you'll be fine. Even if the trailer weighs half of what the truck does, do something stupid and it will own you. The most important safety factory is the person behind the wheel. Getting everything set up properly is all part of being safe, going over a rating by a few hundred pounds isn't.

 

[OC455]

I've seen enough bad stuff in my line of work to know operator errors are the majority of the causes of bad stuff happening. Just figuring out what is safe as far as 75% of max towing with my truck (7990lbs) is 5992.5lbs and the trailers dry weigh is 5158lbs, leaves me about 834.5lbs to keep it about 75% tow capacity, so with propane tanks, and full fresh water tanks, leaves me 400lbs to stay within the 75% total GVWR. So if I keep it around 6000lbs or so, shouldn't be too much of an issue if I get the WHD setup properly. Right now, I know the Curt WHD is not right.

 

[spoon059]

If I keep everything under 6000lbs loaded (tow weight) I don't think I should have much of an issue as far as maxing out the towing capacity for the truck. I'm not too keen on how Curt WDH is set at this point.

Your weights are fine with your truck. Most dealers aren't able to properly set up your hitch for a variety of reasons. It could be simple incompetence, but more likely it is because they aren't dealing with a loaded truck and trailer. Once you get your family in the truck, it changes the weight dynamics of the truck. Once your camper is loaded for how you normally camp, it changes the weight dynamics of the trailer. Once you load your trailer, you'll likely get substantially more tongue weight, which will affect that push/pull feel.

Load EVERYTHING up for camping and start making adjustments at that point. You'll get it dialed in, but it might take a couple tries. Good luck and please give feedback on how you like the hitch once its dialed in.

 

[McBroom]

I wasn't pushing it too hard. Going to look up where to find the CAT scales.

Or at the local grain silo’s and the scrap yard you can get axle weights done to. If you talk to them right it might even be free


I Love My 2018 RAM 2500HD 4x4 6.4L
Mod list: Pedal Commander, AVS Vent shades, Solo Delete kit, molar side step rails

 

[OC455]

Most dealers aren't able to properly set up your hitch for a variety of reasons. It could be simple incompetence, but more likely it is because they aren't dealing with a loaded truck and trailer.

I don't think that they have ever used a Curt hitch before. Not bad mouthing them, just think they are used to using a single type of hitch that they sell and set up the Curt hitch up the way they do the ones they use.

 

[csuder99]

What is the weight rating of your WDH ? RV dealers often take the 'one-size-fits-all' approach and use 10k WDH regardless of actual trailer weight. Sounds like your trailer is more in the 6-7k range. Modern 1/2 ton trucks are sprung fairly soft for ride comfort and the WDH effectively stiffens the rear suspension.
Recently there's also been a bit of a change in thinking when it comes to bringing weight back to the front axle. It used to be that the goal was to recover all lost front axle weight, nowadays it's more 25-50% of lost weight. That makes the rear a little more compliant and reduces possible oversteer.

 

[OC455]

Just got my Timber Grove air assist springs.....going to re-set everything again and then hit the scales.

 

[crash68]

Just got my Timber Grove air assist springs.....going to re-set everything again and then hit the scales.

If your WDH is already set up for the trailer, you should be good to go(no need to change anything). Use the airbags to "fine tune" the firmness of the rear end for better control.
Even with the factory air suspension, you put the truck in Jack Mode to stop it from leveling the truck while you set up the WDH. After the WDH is set up, then you let the system auto-level.

 

[VernDiesel]

Some good feedback in this thread. The use 75% of Mfg rated max tow thing.. I assume that was something someone with no idea how to use a WDH & scale figured out. Basically with any half ton truck you can generally tow 75% of its rated capacity even when just blindly dumping the trailer on a regular hitch ball and it will still be ok. Agree with other posters most TT dealers can only get it in the ball park without a loaded truck loaded trailer and no scales. This can leave a lot of stability and safety on the table so to speak. Properly loaded the truck will be safe and stable to tow at its maximum rated towing capacity.

Hmnn from what I have seen and experienced on the practical application of it and or read with respects to the mathamatics & physics of it.. Ideally at minimum replace all the unloaded front steer weight. Best slalom and maximum braking. Airforums had slalom & braking tests using an Airstream on this. I believe it was Andy at Can Am RV dealership that either did or posted these.

Often taking a rig from "white knuckle" to stable also from out of spec to in spec or in warranty or "legal" as some would say is only a matter of proper set up.

Down & dirty. 1. Weigh the unloaded truck for steer, drive, & total weight. 2. Weigh the loaded truck & wet TT.

3. Adjust WDH, load in the truck, and load in the TT, then re-weigh until you have at minimum replaced the unloaded steer weight and have drive axle weight down to max axle rating or below. Subtract unloaded truck weight from the loaded truck weight for accurate tongue weight. (This is because when using a WDH tongue weight is no longer static weight but rather dynamic weight) That number divided into the gross trailer weight will be your tongue weight percentage. This needs to be between 10 & 15 percent. Now you have a stable safe tow with best emergency swerve around for accident avoidance and maximum stopping power. You should still review your scale slips for CVW, GVW, and tongue weight to receiver rating. If you no longer have stock original tires check their weight rating as well.

Note by adjusting hitch & load you can lower your TW and truck GVW. Sometimes with heavier trailers for warranty & such people want the TW down to where they are below the trucks GVWR. Other times the priority is a little more TW for maximum stability. Physics wise on a bumper pull for lack of proper term its preferable to have more weight on the TV axles than on the TT axles so the tail can't wag the dog as they say.

Here is a free CAT scale locator app for your phone. It also has GPS on it for guided directions. https://catscale.com/cat-scale-apps/

 

[OC455]

Some good feedback in this thread. The use 75% of Mfg rated max tow thing.. I assume that was something someone with no idea how to use a WDH & scale figured out. Basically with any half ton truck you can generally tow 75% of its rated capacity even when just blindly dumping the trailer on a regular hitch ball and it will still be ok. Agree with other posters most TT dealers can only get it in the ball park without a loaded truck loaded trailer and no scales. This can leave a lot of stability and safety on the table so to speak. Properly loaded the truck will be safe and stable to tow at its maximum rated towing capacity.

Hmnn from what I have seen and experienced on the practical application of it and or read with respects to the mathamatics & physics of it.. Ideally at minimum replace all the unloaded front steer weight. Best slalom and maximum braking. Airforums had slalom & braking tests using an Airstream on this. I believe it was Andy at Can Am RV dealership that either did or posted these.

Often taking a rig from "white knuckle" to stable also from out of spec to in spec or in warranty or "legal" as some would say is only a matter of proper set up.

Down & dirty. Weigh the unloaded truck for steer, drive, & total weight. Weigh the loaded truck & wet TT.

Adjust WDH, load in the truck, and load in the TT, then re-weigh until you have at minimum replaced the unloaded steer weight and have drive axle weight down to max axle rating or below. Subtract unloaded truck weight from the loaded truck weight for accurate tongue weight. (This is because when using a WDH tongue weight is no longer static weight but dynamic weight) That number divided into the gross trailer weight will be your tongue weight percentage. This needs to be between 10 & 15 percent. Now you have a stable safe tow with best emergency swerve around for accident avoidance and maximum stopping power. You should still review your scale slips for CVW, GVW, and tongue weight to receiver rating. If you no longer have stock original tires check their weight rating as well.

Note by adjusting hitch & load you can lower your TW and truck GVW. Sometimes with heavier trailers for warranty & such people want the TW down to where they are below the trucks GVWR. Other times the priority is a little more TW for maximum stability. Physics wise on a bumper pull for lack of proper term its preferable to have more weight on the TV axles than on the TT axles so the tail can't wag the dog as they say.

Here is a free CAT scale locator app for your phone. It also has GPS on it for guided directions. https://catscale.com/cat-scale-apps/

Learning curve for me.....I don't want to be "that guy" Seen enough of dumb mistakes in my line of work to know almost everything is operator error....

 

[VernDiesel]

Well yeah especially if you have kids traveling with you. Always best to scale it and know you have a safe stable setup. Now you have it in three steps. Even if you don't get all the weight to the steer axle restored anything is better than doing nothing. Sway control of the WDH should also do its job.

 

[OC455]

Well yeah especially if you have kids traveling with you. Always best to scale it and know you have a safe stable setup. Now you have it in three steps. Even if you don't get all the weight to the steer axle restored anything is better than doing nothing. Sway control of the WDH should also do its job.

The boss lady has a trip set up for Lake George, and half of it will be on the I-90.....and I want no F-ups. Better to be a bit overboard and retentive then unsafe and foolish.

 

[OC455]

Some good feedback in this thread. The use 75% of Mfg rated max tow thing.. I assume that was something someone with no idea how to use a WDH & scale figured out. Basically with any half ton truck you can generally tow 75% of its rated capacity even when just blindly dumping the trailer on a regular hitch ball and it will still be ok. Agree with other posters most TT dealers can only get it in the ball park without a loaded truck loaded trailer and no scales. This can leave a lot of stability and safety on the table so to speak. Properly loaded the truck will be safe and stable to tow at its maximum rated towing capacity.

Hmnn from what I have seen and experienced on the practical application of it and or read with respects to the mathamatics & physics of it.. Ideally at minimum replace all the unloaded front steer weight. Best slalom and maximum braking. Airforums had slalom & braking tests using an Airstream on this. I believe it was Andy at Can Am RV dealership that either did or posted these.

Often taking a rig from "white knuckle" to stable also from out of spec to in spec or in warranty or "legal" as some would say is only a matter of proper set up.

Down & dirty. 1. Weigh the unloaded truck for steer, drive, & total weight. 2. Weigh the loaded truck & wet TT.

3. Adjust WDH, load in the truck, and load in the TT, then re-weigh until you have at minimum replaced the unloaded steer weight and have drive axle weight down to max axle rating or below. Subtract unloaded truck weight from the loaded truck weight for accurate tongue weight. (This is because when using a WDH tongue weight is no longer static weight but rather dynamic weight) That number divided into the gross trailer weight will be your tongue weight percentage. This needs to be between 10 & 15 percent. Now you have a stable safe tow with best emergency swerve around for accident avoidance and maximum stopping power. You should still review your scale slips for CVW, GVW, and tongue weight to receiver rating. If you no longer have stock original tires check their weight rating as well.

Note by adjusting hitch & load you can lower your TW and truck GVW. Sometimes with heavier trailers for warranty & such people want the TW down to where they are below the trucks GVWR. Other times the priority is a little more TW for maximum stability. Physics wise on a bumper pull for lack of proper term its preferable to have more weight on the TV axles than on the TT axles so the tail can't wag the dog as they say.

Here is a free CAT scale locator app for your phone. It also has GPS on it for guided directions. https://catscale.com/cat-scale-apps/

Going to the CAT scale this Friday, or at least planning on it. Told the boss lady to load the trailer as if we were going to take the trip and then have her and I and possibly my folks in the truck to make up the equivalent weight for the kiddos.

1.) weigh the truck without the trailer with the weight of passengers and other items.

2.) weigh the truck and trailer together and get the combined vehicle weight, and then adjust the WDH to get the steer axle weight back to the weight of the steer axle as it was without the trailer. Also making sure not to go over on the max rear axle weight rating for the truck.

Just making sure I am tracking here....

Use the Timber Grove air assist springs to eliminate any other sway/wiggle/squirm.

VernDiesel I appreciate you helping with this.

 

[VernDiesel]

Yeah thats great. 1. I get unloaded steer & truck weight with only me and the truck. 2. Some people just put sand/salt/concrete bags or something on the cab floor to approximate passenger weight when getting the loaded weight. I like to get one weigh with the trailer but without the weight transfer applied just to know how much the hitch and my other weight redistribution is transferring. It only takes a minute and $2.

You are going to spend a bit of time at the scales as their is adjustment time and some learning curve with a bit of trial by error. But once you got it your done you don't have to come back every summer unless your load changes dramatically. Yes airbags after weight distribution is done. I'll see if I can post some example numbers for you tomorrow.

 

[OC455]

Yeah thats great. 1. I get unloaded steer & truck weight with only me and the truck. 2. Some people just put sand/salt/concrete bags or something on the cab floor to approximate passenger weight when getting the loaded weight. I like to get one weigh with the trailer but without the weight transfer applied just to know how much the hitch and my other weight redistribution is transferring. It only takes a minute and $2.

You are going to spend a bit of time at the scales as their is adjustment time and some learning curve with a bit of trial by error. But once you got it your done you don't have to come back every summer unless your load changes dramatically. Yes airbags after weight distribution is done. I'll see if I can post some example numbers for you tomorrow.

Perfect