DIY: Replace factory radio with double din aftermarket stereo for 2012 Ram 1500 SLT

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OTSS

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Alright so I am going to start off by saying I have never installed anything on any car or truck ever and I never asked anyone what to do or how to do it other than a couple posts on this forum. I seen some smaller write ups on what to do here and there that I pieced together to figure it out. Also always turn off the ignition and possibly disconnect the battery. Anyways here it goes.

The truck I have is a 2012 Ram 1500 SLT. I am installing a Kenwood Double Din DDX470. This truck is the bench front seat so there is no center console.
You will need to order a few parts before you get started.
First is the wiring harness. I got the PAC C2R-CHY4 and I never tested anything else but this one for sure worked for me Amazon.com: PAC C2R-CHY4 Radio Replacement Interface for Chrysler: Car Electronics
I also got the antenna adapter to make it plug and play this is the one I got and it hooks directly from your antenna plug to the back of the new deck. Amazon.com: Dodge Ram Pickup 1500 09 10 11 2009 2010 2011 Antenna Adapter- Factory Antenna to Aftermarket Radio: Everything Else.
I also got the double din mounting brackets here. Amazon.com: Metra 95-6511 Chrysler/Jeep DDIN 2007 Dash Kit: Electronics. There are others you can get. This is just the one I ended up getting.
I also got the satellite radio tuner which is optional but this is the part you need if you want it Amazon.com: SiriusXM SXV200v1 Connect Vehicle Tuner for SiriusXM-Ready Car Stereo Receivers: Car Electronics

Now first off I would recommend putting on your double din mounts on your stereo and hooking up your satellite tuner if you purchased one as well as wiring up your wiring harness from your stereo to your PAC C2R-CHY4. There are diagrams for it on the PAC device as well as in your stereo manual. Most of it is colour coded exactly and should be a breeze. There are a couple wires that are a different colour though. The PAC C2R-CHY4 comes with 2 harnesses. This is the one I used as it fits perfect.

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The other harness is not needed at all. I used some basic twist on crimping caps but there are other ways to connect your wires. This is what mine looked like when I set everything up.

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I also zip tied my satellite tuner to the PAC audio box

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I also installed the antenna adapter into the back of the stereo.

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This is optional but I also set up the video bypass. This allows your passengers to watch DVD's while the vehicle is in motion. This will not work on all aftermarket stereo's but it does work on Kenwood stereo's. All you need to do is connect the green wire to a ground or just to the base of the stereo like I did here.

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Now this is what the stereo looks like before you remove it.

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First you remove the top rubber piece in picture with something small like a flat head

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Now there are 2 bolts you need to remove using a Torx T20

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Now you just pull the console off and it will come off. I failed to get a picture of me pulling but it was easy.

Now you need to remove the 4 screws holding the radio in place. I think it was a 7mm socket I used.

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Now pull the stereo out and there will be the radio harness you have to unplug as well as the antenna for both the radio and satellite. You just push the button below the plugs and pull out. When your all done this is what the back looks like

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This is the opening left afterwards. Notice I broke off the yellow plug as this is the satellite antenna and can be plugged into the satellite radio adapter afterwards.

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Now since I am installing a double din I will need to do some cutting. First you need to cut the plastic retainer between the mounting holes. I used a hacksaw but you can probably use anything and it would be better lol.

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This is what it will look like when they cut.

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Now you need to cut the metal retainer inside at the corner.

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I used a saws all with a metal blade but again there are better tools that are less bulky

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Now remove the screw holding the metal bracket on. I think it was a 7mm socket as well.

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Now for my radio I needed to trim back the top plastic lip to make my stereo fit. I didn't figure this out till after so the next few pictures this will be missing. Also I ended up trimming right to the edge of the sides. This picture only shows it trimmed to the corner pieces but I did have to cut those off and I forgot to take a picture.

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I also cut off this little plastic piece but I don't think I needed too

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Now my stereo came with handsfree bluetooth so I am going to wire up my mic now. If yours did not have bluetooth then skip to installing the stereo. There are lots of places you can hook up your mic too, some easier than others but this is what I did as it allows there to be no distortion when you roll down your window and it allows for anyone in the truck to talk clearly. I just clipped it by lifting the panel slightly and sliding it in.

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Now that we know where we are mounting it we can start hiding the wire. First I removed the "oh sh*t handle" on the driver side by popping the caps seen in the picture off and using a 10mm socket to remove the screws.

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Now lift the head visor a little at a time and tuck the wire in along it until it is hidden. The wire is then hidden and brought down the side and being careful not to get it stuck in pinch points when you replace the handle.

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I then used a couple red zip ties to make sure it don't dangle around when reinstalling the handle. It is fed through the hole and will dangle down to where your brake and gas pedal are.

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Now this is where I forgot a couple pictures but you want to bring it above the wiring behind the dash and feed it into the back of where your stereo will go. Make sure to use zip ties so that it don't ever fall down and dangle where your brake and gas pedals are. This is where it ends up

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Now reinstall the handle by replacing the 2 screws and replacing the caps

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OTSS

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I am now putting the new stereo in. First connect the microphone to the back of the stereo

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Now connect the satellite antenna to the satellite tuner box. It is not a secure fit so I used a red zip tie and wrapped it around the cord then used 2 green zip ties and wrapped it around the box on both sides to pull the plug in securely and evenly pulled to both sides. You can buy an adapter instead but this is what I ended up doing.

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Now connect the white plug for antenna from the truck into the green one on the adapter.

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Now connect the wiring harness from the truck to the stereo

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This part is optional but I connected an aux cord to the stereo and fed that into the dash cubby as well as the spare USB cable from back of stereo

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Now that everything is connected slide the whole stereo into place and put the 4 bolts back on.

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Replace the cover the same way you took it off and screw the 2 Torx T20 screws back on and replace the rubber cover. This is what the install looks like completed.

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It won't be perfectly flush with the stereo I used because the dash is slightly curved.

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Congratulations you installed your own stereo. Next I will post on how to install some component speakers.
 
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OTSS

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This was my first DIY post so I had some problems but they all fixed now and it should all be working. Let me know what you guys think
 

White Beauty

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Looks like a great write up man!! Glad someone did one, I forgot to take all the install pics when I installed the same HU in my 11. Once you get the pics to work it will be perfect!
 

jbr

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Thanks for taking the time and effort with the write up!!

I have a 2013 (Big Horn uConnect 5.0) I wonder if this set up would work for me. I also have the steering wheel audio controls.

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White Beauty

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only thing I wouldn't have done was use the twist on connectors, use solder and heat shielding.

Great Photos though!
 
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OTSS

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The PAC audio connector did have another connection for steering wheel controls. You have to buy it separately though and I just didn't need it. Also yeah I could have used solder but again I am a newbie to this and it is my first install on anything and I don't have a solder gun. The caps did work great in a pinch though. Trick is to strip a lot of wire before twisting them on so that you get a more secure connection.
 

Ramlvr

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Great write-up buddy.
Thanks for this.
 

White Beauty

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One thing you did that I didn't have to was cut between the mounting screws on the left and right side.. Not quite sure what this accomplished?

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OTSS

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I tried to see if it fit without cutting it and it didn't. Needed to cut it for it to expand open. The back end wouldn't squeeze in at all. Maybe if you just cut the top lip off it might have fit but I didn't try that.
 

baum

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Nice write up, but you should change your wires in your "a" pillar to be ziptied or taped to the factory. you cross infront of the airbag which could hinder the performance of it if it should happen to go off.
 

lunchbox

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Just want to say thanks for this write up! I researched and researched but couldn’t determine that if my stock radio bezel would work, I read a lot of grumblings that a nav center dash bezel was needed (a $350.00 touch from the stealership). Then flipping through this thread I saw the stock radio was the same as mine! So last night I tackled it and she’s done and looking good with my alpine AVH-X4500BT. So many thankyou’s to OTSS, you Sir are the man (unless you’re a woman).

I also just wanted to ask/mention two things:

1. I didn’t cut the two plastic “uprights” where the radio bolts into and it still fits. But the top of the brackets don’t sit flush (I put spacers in). There for my question is, if I were to cut that, does that make the mounting surface flush without spacers in behind the aftermarket dash kit?
2. I would also like to mention the importance of the PAC C2R-CHY4 (or a similar device). Not only does it provide crucial information for the Chrysler data bus system, if one were to get in an accident without it, there is a high chance that the airbags wouldn’t deploy when needed. And here in British Columbia, the insurance corporation of British Columbia would void your insurance policy. Not to mention you may throw a code or two.

Thanks again to OTSS and everybody else in this thread, Ive found it to be invaluable. Hopefully, soon I can submit a write up of my own that proves to be just as helpful.


Geoff
 

RAM FF

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Thanks for the thorough walk through on this. I have one question though. Had you cut the bottom of that metal bracket, instead of the top (as well as the trim work you did on the plastic up top), would the radio have slid in just as well and be aligned for the final trim piece to go over it?
 

cbo

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This may sound like a stupid question but do you know the make of the stock HU? Will this effect which harness to get in order for everything to work with an aftermarket unit I am installing?
 

john94si

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No the aftermarket harness is the same for all model cars for that year. So a 13 ram will need a 13 ram kit.
 

AltxF4

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Thank you for this great write up! I just got my 2012 SLT, and this is the first thing I will be doing along with installing a backup camera.

Thanks!
 

rduchateau2954

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Anybody got some more or better pics of the completed install? I'm really on the fence about this.
 

1500ram12

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