Driveshaft removal problems

[WestonsAutoWorld]

This is my first post to this forum, so I apologize if I'm in the wrong section or just didn't do this right in general.

I have a 2001 Ram 2500 4x4. The transmission went out on it and I have one to swap in. The problem is that the rear driveshaft bolts are seized so badly that I can't get them off. I don't want to cut the u joint if I can avoid it. My drill doesn't fit good enough to get a good angle to drill out the bolts. I've tried heating them up Red Hot and they still don't budge. I need the driveshaft to slide out so I can pull the transfer case and transmission. Everything else will be easy; I'm just stuck on these bolts. I've contemplated removing my leaf spring shackles and rear shocks to slide out the rear axle and driveshaft as one unit. Is that a good idea or should I focus on the driveshaft bolts instead?

I do not have any air tools available to me. I have plenty of sockets and accessories, a small rotary dremel, oxy/acet torches for cutting, a small mappro torch for heating, Sawzall, drill, and a four post lift in my garage. The only problem is, I can only fit a 1/4" socket wrench and socket in there, and it just wants to strip the bolts.

This isn't a super urgent project. It's needed this swap since February. I'd really like it to be up and running again before this winter in case we actually get snow this year in central Ohio. Any thoughts or tips would be greatly appreciated!

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[crazykid1994]

Looks like you need some PB Blaster or wd40 with that heat. And an impact gun with an extension possibly gotta soak them a few times and see if it helps before you try the impact or cutting


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[WestonsAutoWorld]

Looks like you need some PB Blaster or wd40 with that heat. And an impact gun with an extension possibly gotta soak them a few times and see if it helps before you try the impact or cutting


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Any impact guns or air compressors you'd recommend? I haven't bought those because I'm concerned of buying one that isn't good enough for the money. I dismantle vehicles and sell the parts, so an air compressor and impact wrench are on the list of tools to buy.

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[crazykid1994]

Personally I just have a small compressor for when I used to clean carbs and other small items. I have a Milwaukee impact but I'm a little biased towards those tools. If I can't break it loose with PB, heat, and my hammer I usually grind it off


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[dudeman2009]

It might be a little tough to get them off but i've gotten worse off with some sweat and a swivel impact socket.

You can get away with an electric impact but it better be beefy, otherwise air is the way to go. Any of the regular ******** brands will do, but Steelman makes an excellent heavy duty 1/2in impact that suffers all my abuse. In a pinch even a harbor freight earthquake will do, one of the other techs at work bought one to start out as an express tech and its still going almost a year later. I don't like the way it feels or handles, there is little to no trigger control, wheras my snapon and steelman can be smoothly throttled from a light spin of less than 80rpm to full speed all while on the highest air valve setting.

Hit them with some heat, oxy is the best as you can get the companion flange dark red pretty quick so you don't cook the seals in the diff or U-joints. Then when its hot, douse it with water, the rapid change will help break the bond of the rust, then heat the companion flange and hit those bolts with a impact and swivel. Should pull them right out.

 

[WestonsAutoWorld]

It might be a little tough to get them off but i've gotten worse off with some sweat and a swivel impact socket.

You can get away with an electric impact but it better be beefy, otherwise air is the way to go. Any of the regular ******** brands will do, but Steelman makes an excellent heavy duty 1/2in impact that suffers all my abuse. In a pinch even a harbor freight earthquake will do, one of the other techs at work bought one to start out as an express tech and its still going almost a year later. I don't like the way it feels or handles, there is little to no trigger control, wheras my snapon and steelman can be smoothly throttled from a light spin of less than 80rpm to full speed all while on the highest air valve setting.

Hit them with some heat, oxy is the best as you can get the companion flange dark red pretty quick so you don't cook the seals in the diff or U-joints. Then when its hot, douse it with water, the rapid change will help break the bond of the rust, then heat the companion flange and hit those bolts with a impact and swivel. Should pull them right out.

Not sure why I never thought of a grinder! I ended up buying a dremel multi max and a few carbide tipped blades. Cut right through the bolts and the driveshaft came right out! Thanks for the ideas everyone!

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[WestonsAutoWorld]

Now I'll just have to drill through the bolts in the yoke, but with the driveshaft out of the way, that won't be a problem.

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